boat won't go

cookscreek510

Recruit
Joined
May 2, 2010
Messages
3
Hi all this is my first post here, hope to fing some advice. this winter I purchased a 1988 Aries bass boat 16' with a 1988 Mecury 70hp motor with the power trim, I noticed the prop is a ss after market (quick silver) Yesterday I tried the boat for the first time it started right up ilded smooth but when I opened it up before it wants to plane out it just churns water for about 15 to 20 seconds before to starts to plane and after to planes out it runs fine. Can anyone tell me what is causing this, is it the after market prop? or a motor issue. the tack is not working so I can't give any info on the rpm I'll attach some photos of my set up Thanks
 

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Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,291
Re: boat won't go

Ayuh,... Welcome Aboard,...
Are you trimming it,..?? How are you trimming it,..??

It's hard to tell, but it looks like it could be a Long motor, on a Short transom...
 

Banditz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
168
Re: boat won't go

I agree...but also notice you have no anoid on your motor. But to be honest, I dunno if your outboard even came with one. LOL. Good luck!
 

steelespike

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Messages
19,069
Re: boat won't go

Its obvious the po was looking for some speed.Usually you would raise the motor to the extreme and tollerate a little venting to gain the least resistance.Be sure you trim in all the way.Quick silver is a Merc name.A true aftermarket prop would be a different brand.
 

cookscreek510

Recruit
Joined
May 2, 2010
Messages
3
Re: boat won't go

Thanks for your interest, the anode is missing, what function dose this piece do? I will take a measurement to check the motor depth off the transom and get back to you Thanks
 

jrs_diesel

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
552
Re: boat won't go

The anode helps protect the motor from corroding. They are typically made of zinc, magnesium, or even aluminum. They are more electrically active than the metal of the outboard (or outdrive). Because of that, they corrode first, and prevent the other object from corroding. You'll sometime see these referred to as sacrificial anodes. Because they get eaten away over time, they should be replaced periodically.

Hope this helps.
 

hwsiii

Commander
Joined
Jan 25, 2009
Messages
2,639
Re: boat won't go

Cook, you have to have a tach in order to know what is happening with the motor and the prop combination.

Welcome to Iboats prop forum and I will try to help you as much as I can but without more information no one can help you, and I will tell you I need more information than anyone else. But if you would like my help fill this form out and I will help you as much as I can.

You might try reading this for a better understanding of changing props for better performance, and for the major differences between aluminum props and stainless steel.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=369057


If you would prefer to not go to this much trouble there are many other people who will come along and gladly help you.

1. Year, make and model of boat
2. Length, width and base weight of boat, look for boat decal on back of boat
2a.What is the maximum recommended HP for your boat
3. Number of people and gallons of gas normally on boat and what do you use the boat for
4. Year, make. manufacturer and model of motor and recommended Wide Open Throttle (WOT) range
5. HP and gear ratio of motor IMPORTANT
If you don?t know the ratio, you need to pull the plugs out and put a piece of tape across the prop and the lower unit and then cut it between the prop and the housing then do the same thing on the flywheel and turn the motor until the tape lines up with each other on the prop, it is easier if two people do this, so one can watch the prop while the other counts the revolutions of the motor
6. Anti-ventilation Plate height above keel of boat if it is an outboard in inches, use a straight edge under the keel and sticking out to the anti ventilation plate for a reference
Motor Transom Height
AntiventilationPlateStraightEdge-2.jpg

7. WOT RPM and speed from your current prop and how much gas and how many people were in the boat for the test data and is the speed by GPS. Make sure you trim the prop up until it starts ventilating and then just trim in until it quits ventilating.
RPM _________ Speed ______ GPS ______ No. of people ______ Gal. Gas ________
8. Make, model, diameter, pitch, number of blades and whether SS or aluminum prop and does it have a hydrafoil, dolefin or trim tabs
9. Has your motor been tuned up lately and have you checked that the carburetor butterfly is opening all the way by just pushing the throttle at the helm and not at the carburetor, checked compression, and looked at the plugs and checked spark as well as timing and advance, all of the foregoing could be the reason your prop is not attaining full RPM
10. What problems are you trying to cure or what are you looking for the boat to do that it is not doing the way you think it should or to your expectations and does the prop show any damage that you can see

REMEMBER, The numbers I give you will be NO better than the information you give me. I use a computer program I designed to find the correct pitch and then knowledge to pick a Better prop design for your boat.

The only thing I ask of you is to come back and give me a report of WOT RPM and speed for my database.



H
 

cookscreek510

Recruit
Joined
May 2, 2010
Messages
3
Re: boat won't go

Took the boat to the shop yesterday to get some advice, sounds like the tach needs to be working to tell whats up (just what everyone here said) so I'm waiting to get in to fix the tach. the tech thinks the prop is a mismatch because of the exaust holes on the prop (lazer11) and tne 23 pitch , so I have to wait for the tach to be fixed and then check the rpm's with the top speed to tell what is going on. Thanks I'll keep ypu advised. Darn boats, the bigger the boat the bigger the headake
 
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