Boom!

[jerryjerry05]

Was out boating and one motor stopped.
No spark.
My meter and timing light is in the shop being repaired.
Both Electro Specialist products.That's besides the point.
I have a second(and a third)stator in my parts in so I thought I'd just change the stator.
Thought this would be a good time to get a pic thread of removing the flywheel with a 3 jaw puller.
Started and had a bugger of a time removing the flywheel nut.Even used an impact.Ingersol Rand too!
Got it off and installed the puller.
Started tightning and got to where I thought it was tight enough.
Wham with a 3# sledge.
NOTHING!!! So a bit more with the impact.Wham,nothing again???
So a bit tighter,Wham still no pop.
Then tighter and even a shot from the torch.
Wham.Nothing again so again with the impact.
Then BOOMMM.
Two of the jaws and the screw hit me in the stomach(it just bounced off,lots of padding)and the 3rd jaw ended up flying the other way.
The three way part of the puller cracked/broke and sent pieces flying!!
I always wear safety goggles and gloves.Guess I need an apron with kevlar padding.

It's only an outboard but they can really hurt you if not careful.

Oh Yea the wheel is still on there???

Anybody wanna come help me?? WE can fix this and go fishing!!!
I've got another powerhead so I'm just gonna replace it.
Be careful.Jerry

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Boom!



Why anyone would want to use a three jaw puller when there are three perfectly good holes tapped into the flywheel is beyond my understanding.

A three jaw puller concentrates the force on the weakest part of the flywheel: The web. There is also potential for warping the flywheel or bending the ring gear. The correct tool using the center holes will concentrate forces on the strongest part of the flywheel. It will also concentrate pulling forces right where they are needed: At the center. Contrast that to forces passed through the web. Each impact with the hammer will flex the web a bit, reducing the amount of force delivered to the hub and crankshaft taper.

I have only stripped the pulling holes once and then I simply re-tapped to 5/16.

A steering wheel puller or harmonic balance puller work well. Here is a photo of my lifting ring. My puller is in a very safe spot in the garage but it looks almost exactly the same. It has a handle bolted to it and the center bolt is fine thread 1/2 inch.

These were pretty much the first two tools I made when I started seriously working on engines.

 

[tater76]

Re: Boom!

Wow! Glad to hear your ok. I think any of us that has pulled a flywheel has felt that moment of uncertainty with the puller on that last turn. You all know the one I'm talking about, so tight you think something may break or strip. Then you smack it with a hammer and it still won't budge, so you turn it just about as far as you trust it right? All the while just praying that the darn flywheel would just pop loose.

I have never had one break yet, but I am with Frank on the steering wheel puller though, its all I use. Again, glad all your appendages and wits are intact. I have had some close calls, some major gashes, but never almost impaled by a puller jeesh

 

[dst87mcssac]

Re: Boom!

Jerry,

I am glad you are alright. Thanks for all of the help you have been giving me with my flywheel. I used the center puller on my Mercury Flywheel. It worked great, but I realize my center hub is different ( Threaded Raised Center) than the older Force Flywheels.

Donald

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Boom!

Stripped hole for one.
The other,it never ever didn't work.J

 

[foodfisher]

Re: Boom!

+1 w/Frank. Used it on mine, came off with one whack. Still have it for the next time.

 

[Justinde]

Re: Boom!

On my way Jerry. Whats your number- I'll call from the airport

 

[TwoFish]

Re: Boom!

Glad to hear you are OK Jerry!

 

[bashr52]

Re: Boom!

View attachment 153556View attachment 153557

Why anyone would want to use a three jaw puller when there are three perfectly good holes tapped into the flywheel is beyond my understanding.

A three jaw puller concentrates the force on the weakest part of the flywheel: The web. There is also potential for warping the flywheel or bending the ring gear. The correct tool using the center holes will concentrate forces on the strongest part of the flywheel. It will also concentrate pulling forces right where they are needed: At the center. Contrast that to forces passed through the web. Each impact with the hammer will flex the web a bit, reducing the amount of force delivered to the hub and crankshaft taper.

I have only stripped the pulling holes once and then I simply re-tapped to 5/16.

A steering wheel puller or harmonic balance puller work well. Here is a photo of my lifting ring. My puller is in a very safe spot in the garage but it looks almost exactly the same. It has a handle bolted to it and the center bolt is fine thread 1/2 inch.

These were pretty much the first two tools I made when I started seriously working on engines.

I guess I'm confused as to how this works? Do you bolt it to the flywheel and then use the ring and a hoist to lift the flywheel off or something?

 

[foodfisher]

Re: Boom!

If I may, The one pictured is for lifting the engine. The puller uses a long threaded bolt with a nut and washer underneath to apply tension prior to the whack.Edit; replace the eyebolt w/threaded bolt thru hole in center of plate/s and add nut/washer below.

 

[Jiggz]

Re: Boom!

I guess I'm confused as to how this works? Do you bolt it to the flywheel and then use the ring and a hoist to lift the flywheel off or something?

This item will explain it better. The same method except in Frank's pics he had an eyebolt instead of the center threaded bolt. The round thick plate is threaded so you do not need a nut to counter torque. All you need is to make sure the flywheel do not turn while tightening the center bolt. You also need the flywheel nut as the centering and shaft protection tool.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/320902073246?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

 

[wickware]

Re: Boom!

My version of a universal puller. I originally made it for hamonic balance pulling and some lawnmower?s flywheels. The impact can be applied to the taller bolt or a wrench (usually) with the leverage bar removed. It started in the 70s, in 84 I added the 3 ears to include pulling my 1970 35 HP Chrysler?s flywheel. It works like a champ! I have pullers that will pull from the outer dia but I hat the possibility of damage from pulling from the outer dia. An overkill on the steel for the strength and more options. LOL!

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Boom!



Here is my puller and my lifting ring. The puller turned out to be at the other shop

 

[foodfisher]

Re: Boom!

Welding is an attribute. (three syllables)

 

[st8it2me]

Re: Boom!

Hello Frank A,

I'm interested in building one of these pullers myself, do you remember offhand the radius from center the bolt ring is?

Thanks Mark

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Boom!

Ok Frank,I'll try yours.How much to make one?
I'm not in any position to make one.

 

[wickware]

Re: Boom!

I like the handle and weight Frank. On the other end is there a plate with the inside dia larger than your socket that will allow you to hold the flywheel while torquing? For your volume of pulling flywheels this is priceless. Since 1984 I have pulled my flywheel 4-6 times and my universal puller has been great for many other jobs.

?Welding is an attribute. (three syllables)? ???

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Boom!

Welding is an attribute--- probably an allusion to another post I answered that had four syllavle words in it. Anyway: The plate for the puller is 3/8 thich steel salvaged from a telephone pole bolt washer (I think). The center hole is drilled to accept a press fit 1/2 X 20 FLANGED nut so if I strip it or it wears out I can press in another.The flange is on the bottle so it will not pull through under pressure from the centerbolt. The perimeter holes are 3/8 centered on 1 1/4 radius. The handle is a piece of3/4 bar (scrap) drilled 5/16 and the plate is drilled and tapped 5/16-18 to match. The extra hole was because I used the bar on another plate.The bar is relieved to clear the tweo 1/4 X 20 bolts for the flywheel. Total time to fabricate--probably 1/2 hour.

To torque the flywheel nut (or remove it) I use a small prybar or a tire iron jammed between the ring gear teeth and set into the starter motor mount. Someday I will fabricate a spanner for the ring gear although if someone has a strap wench really cheap at a yard sale I will try that.

 

[iwaterdave]

Re: Boom!

View attachment 153556View attachment 153557

Why anyone would want to use a three jaw puller when there are three perfectly good holes tapped into the flywheel is beyond my understanding.

A three jaw puller concentrates the force on the weakest part of the flywheel: The web. There is also potential for warping the flywheel or bending the ring gear. The correct tool using the center holes will concentrate forces on the strongest part of the flywheel. It will also concentrate pulling forces right where they are needed: At the center. Contrast that to forces passed through the web. Each impact with the hammer will flex the web a bit, reducing the amount of force delivered to the hub and crankshaft taper.

I have only stripped the pulling holes once and then I simply re-tapped to 5/16.

A steering wheel puller or harmonic balance puller work well. Here is a photo of my lifting ring. My puller is in a very safe spot in the garage but it looks almost exactly the same. It has a handle bolted to it and the center bolt is fine thread 1/2 inch.

These were pretty much the first two tools I made when I started seriously working on engines.

I used a puller on mine that uses the 3 bolts on the fl;ywheel and it stripped the threads... And my flywheel is still on the powerhead too. Never got it off. LOL

 

[tater76]

Re: Boom!

[ To torque the flywheel nut (or remove it) I use a small prybar or a tire iron jammed between the ring gear teeth and set into the starter motor mount. Someday I will fabricate a spanner for the ring gear although if someone has a strap wench really cheap at a yard sale I will try that.[/QUOTE]

Have you ever just used a medium length socket jammed against the block and the flywheel teeth? Thats how I do it, and have not run into a year or model of Force or Chrysler that doesn't have a spot to wedge the socket. I always worried about breaking the starter mount doing it how you described??