Bottom painting and how did you do it??

KaGee

Admiral
Joined
Aug 14, 2004
Messages
7,069
I have a 21 ft Regal Cuddy fishing boat that has never seen bottom paint. I plan on docking next season and want to hear some ideas for getting her painted... on the trailer. She sits on a dual axle Shorlandr custom roller that is somewhat low to the ground.<br /><br />Open to your suggestions fellas :confused:
 

John Carpenter

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 1, 2002
Messages
336
Re: Bottom painting and how did you do it??

You probably don't want to hear anything I've got to say about this, but here goes.<br /><br />First, no more trouble than it is to launch and retreive a 21 footer, compared to the labor, expense and ongoing issues with bottom paint...I would never paint it.<br /><br />Second, if I was determined to paint it I would never try to do so on the trailer. It is enough work to do a proper job when you can get to everything. If you are going to paint, you need to get the boat off the trailer and blocked up.<br /><br />That said, the first thing you are going to need to do is mark the waterline. I would launch a normally loaded boat in a calm area and use a small triangular file or a Yankee drill to make a small notch or dimple at the waterline at several points along both sides. Your paint will need to come up about 2" from these marks.<br /><br />Get the boat blocked up and tape off your line 2" above your marks. Wipe the entire bottom down with acetone to remove the mold release. Sand the entire bottom with 80 or 100 grit and a random orbital sander. Wash to remove any dust and apply the paint of your choice with a foam roller working across the boat.
 

G DANE

Commander
Joined
Nov 24, 2001
Messages
2,476
Re: Bottom painting and how did you do it??

Remember, If you plan to dock it for the season you will have to paint everything below waterline with an epoxy primer 3 - 4 times to protect it against osmosis. Then antofouling paint. Be aware there is a time limit between the layers to avoid sanding between.
 

BillP

Captain
Joined
Aug 10, 2002
Messages
3,290
Re: Bottom painting and how did you do it??

You need to dewax the orignal gelcoat and scuff the suface. Anything from powdered Ajax types to 600 grit wet and dry will do it. There are also "skip sand" liquids you wipe on that work. I've used all the above methods with A1 results.<br /><br />If the boat isn't sitting in the water for years I wouldn't worry about osmosis or the epoxy coating. Here in Florida we don't see it happening to seasonal boats that don't sit in the water for years and years at a time.<br /><br />Follow the instructions on whatever brand paint you use. Paint can be rolled or brushed. I roll on fiberglass and brush on wood. If you do it on the trailer, paint everywhere you can and let it dry. Then jack up one side of the boat at a time to paint with a small diameter roller where it sits on the trailer. It isn't hard to do if you have jacks and wood 2x4 spacers. When setting the boat back down place wax paper between the hull and boat to help keep the "green" paint from sticking.
 

csportfury

Recruit
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Messages
4
Re: Bottom painting and how did you do it??

Bill, What kind of "Skip Sand" products have you used. We're planning on painting our 78 Sport Fury. It has that great 70's brown and beige gelcoat colour scheme. Any advice on how or good paints etc to use to accomplish a nice finish would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

Winger Ed.

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 24, 2004
Messages
649
Re: Bottom painting and how did you do it??

I've painted a few 19-23 footers a half at a time using this method. I've also hoisted a couple up after I've removed the engine/outdrive to do a bottom paint job and been underneath them too,,,, but I was never comfortable doing it.<br /><br />If you're going to do this at home, and don't pull the engine,,, here's what I've done before and would recomend:<br /><br /> <br />If you can't hoist the whole thing up, once you've decided on the system you'll be using:<br /><br />You can put a (padded)floor jack under the transom along the keel, raise it up a few inches off the trailer and let the hull roll over to one side<br /><br />-- Once its up a few inches, you might have to use a strap and pull it over, depending on how it balances--.<br /><br /> Don't trust the tongue jack for this: Put blocks, inflated spare tires, or whatever under the trailer tongue behind the hitch to make sure the trailer can't roll while you're under it. The bow will be at a down angle, about 12-18" lower than the stern, so your tongue weight should go up to about 1/4 or maybe 1/3 the weight of the boat & trailer. You'll have plenty of weight on the tongue support for the trailer to be a sturdy platform and not move back and forth while you're working under it.<br /><br /><br />Its a pain, but it'll work, and the trailer acts like a natural jackstand. In case the jack slips and the boat falls, it can't 'bite ya'. While 1/2 of the boat is up, the weight is carried by the other half of the hull as it rests on the trailer's contact area.<br /><br />Just to be extra careful, I even put blocks between the boat & trailer on the side I had jacked up. Have them be a couple inches shorter than actually contacting the area you're working on, and you can slide the block (I have used a inflated spare tire for this too) back and forth out of the way of the spot you're actually painting at the moment. That way, if the boat falls, you won't even get your hand trapped between it and a bunk or roller.<br /><br />Then-<br />When its dry, move the jack and roll it up on the other side.<br /><br />It more hassle than calling the marina and telling them to 'fix it'. but you'll probably do a better job at a fraction of the price than they would, and even though its slow, it will work without you being in any unnecessary danger while underneath it if the boat falls off the jack.<br /><br />One last thing:<br />If the trailer is too low, get a few (cheap, trash grade) 2 x 10s to put under the trailer tires. <br /><br />-- I wouldn't trust a stack of bricks or whatever you find laying around to put under the tires, get the boards and nail them together so they can't slip apart. ---<br /><br />Cut them long enough (4 feet or so)to lay under both sets of tires with a few inches all around their 'foot print', and start stacking them up, screwing or nailing one on top of the other until the trailer is raised up enough that its comfortable to work under when you set it back down on them.<br /><br /><br />I don't know if I tend to be over cautious or not.<br />But I've spent a lot of hours under various boats on their trailers secured like this, and never had one fall off the jacks, much less on me.
 

KaGee

Admiral
Joined
Aug 14, 2004
Messages
7,069
Re: Bottom painting and how did you do it??

Thanks for the advise.... never considered doing half at a time... Doh! :eek: <br /><br />BTW... I was looking at a can of one of those "skip sand" products. The label specifically said it was not reccommended for fiberglass!<br /><br />Think I will just keep to trying the Comet along with 3M strip pads.
 

Winger Ed.

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 24, 2004
Messages
649
Re: Bottom painting and how did you do it??

Originally posted by KaGee:<br /> the Comet along with 3M strip pads.
I don't know which 3M pads you're using, but any auto paint store sells the big maroon ones that are almost as big as a shoe box lid, part number #7447. <br /><br />I sell them for about a buck, so they should be about that in your neighborhood. For that size boat, 6-7 should be plenty.<br /><br />They are quite agressive, won't melt in solvents, and should work pretty fast for what you're doing. Alot of auto body shops use them for wet sanding primer surfacers or to scuff a car down before painting over existing paint.
 
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