Brake Mechanic or guru please...

Homerr · May 9, 2003

I'm looking at the cross-drilled/slotted rotors for my 2001 Ford Ranger. It would appear I have a warped rotor, so I need to replace them (I always replace in sets) What are your thoughts on these 'high performance' rotors? Are they worth the extra money? Do they truly increase braking performance, or just lighten your wallet? I like the idea of better cooling. That's a no-brainer. But the cross-drilled/slotted...I've read both pro's and cons. And then there's the pads...What kind should I use? I read somewhere that ceramic is best? I just put on some Napa 'middle of the road' pads, and my wheels look like someone took a can of black spray paint to them! The factory pads didn't do this. My truck: 2001 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab 4x4, 4.0 SOHC. I tow a 21ft. boat, so any improvement in brakes would be nice. Thanks, H.

Bart Sr. · May 9, 2003

Re: Brake Mechanic or guru please...

Homerr>>>I am not a brake man but from my personal experience the cross drilled/slotted rotors with the ceramic pads are great.I have them on my '02 Ranger.Those "MID" Napa pads are graphite and that is where the black dust comes from.Hope this helps.

Bart Sr. · May 9, 2003

Re: Brake Mechanic or guru please...

By the way I tow a 16ft fiberglass I/O at about 2300lbs and have no problems.

snapperbait · May 9, 2003

Re: Brake Mechanic or guru please...

Total waste of $$$$... Been there, done that... Unless your doing a total braking system upgrade ( hp multi-piston calipers, ect.), the difference between new oem brake parts and the cross-drilled will be, (drum roll please) NONE!... (rim shot) OEM rotors and pads, or perhaps "Performance friction carbon metallic" brand, pads...

Take the $$$$ you saved and check out and make any repairs to your trailers brake system... My opinion...

SS MAYFLOAT · May 10, 2003

Re: Brake Mechanic or guru please...

Hi Homerr, I have to agree with Snapperbait on this one. Unless you are towing or cruising at speeds in excess of 120mph! Do you? Then it is a waste. That type of braking system is designed for extreme high temps and speeds. One case that I could see using that setup would be if you towed your boat in the mountains all the time. But then the trailer brakes would still be more beneficial in those areas also. Just my opinion....SS PS-- That crapper that you were interested in is no more. My brilliant teenager didn't turn it upside down as I requested. So it still had water in it (trap) and froze. Wish I could put him into storage for a couple of more years!

I know if he keeps up his crap, he will be in the county storage locker. (jail)

......SS

bubbakat · May 10, 2003

Re: Brake Mechanic or guru please...

Hommer snapper is right ain't worth the cost. the county put them on our new squad cars and the only advantage i see is the fast shut down at high speed the wear is a little better but not acording to the cost

DJ · May 10, 2003

Re: Brake Mechanic or guru please...

Homer, Agree with the others. For best life: 1. Use OEM pads and rotors. 2. Make sure your rear brakes are adjusted properly and functioning. Many times they are not.

62_Kiwi · May 10, 2003

Re: Brake Mechanic or guru please...

I agree about using OEM pads. I had one of those specialist brake shops talk me into aftermarket pads for my Explorer - they are definitely not as good as the originals. You guys talk about rotors...? I think that's a brake "disc" in my language ? If so, getting them reground will often fix the problem and make them work like new again - depends how bad they are. Vented discs (with holes) are generally better for towing since they cool better and so reduce brake fade under heavy conditions.....just my 2 cents.

Homerr · May 10, 2003

Re: Brake Mechanic or guru please...

Thanks for all the help guys. I bought 2 new discs and ceramic (oem)pads. I put a dial indicator to the old 'suspected' disc, and it was .006" out. This isn't that far out, but maybe it was enough? I also noticed the pads were cracked and split, as well as a burned/purple rotor on the one side. I'm wondering if the shop that turned them just goofed somewhere? I also noticed he didn't take the cutter all the way to the outside edge. In otherwords..there was a small lip there. I didn't see this lip in my pads however. The new rotors are within .003". Not too bad out of the box I guess. My manual says maximum runout is .003". I'm wondering if I should have a shop do the 'on-the-vehicle' machining of the rotors? Thoughts? I've never had to do this on my older rigs. I had them turned or buy new, slap them on and go. I can't believe Ford has tightened their tolerances so much that you can feel .003" ? I'm tired and covered with brake dust...time for a beer now...

H.

Skinnywater · May 10, 2003

Re: Brake Mechanic or guru please...

The S class Mercedes has cross drilled rotors also. The factory instructor says they are for looks, only. .003 runout will turn into .006 later. Manufactures are saving wieght. Both sprung and unsprung. They (most)are using less material in thier rotors. This is why there is more warpage lately. Manufactures consider pads AND rotors wear items. Turning new rotors should never be needed and since they are using less material in them this would be totally counter productive. My qualified thoughts? Use the manufactures brake components. If a rotor needs turned, it needs replaced. Clean the hub thoroughly before mounting a rotor to it. Lube and torque nuts, bolts, lugs to specs. Brake dust? Forgettaboutit. It's a byproduct of safety. And most importantly. Don't expect things to remain the same. What used to be, isn't any longer in the automotive business. This is the age of 100K tuneups and ultra low emissions. Brake systems used to stop motion. These days brakes are applied without pedal pressure or the driver even knowing it. Brakes are part of traction control, stability control, descent control, cruise control and a major component of all wheel drive. Brakes that once would last 30,60,80 thousand miles may only last 20 thousand today. What you saved in spark plugs, fuel, dirty air, chassis lube and V belts, it's likely you now spend in brakes. Twenty years ago we all were'nt going 0 to 80 and back again as easily, consistantly and safely as we do these days. Brakes wear faster these days because they simply work harder.

sony2001 · May 11, 2003

Re: Brake Mechanic or guru please...

Volvo uses a guage to measure the runout of the rotor on the hub. The theory being that the hub has its own runout. Then they place the rotor in one of the five positions to get least amount. If each is a 3 thou out, then on the car the combined error could be 0 or 6 thou. Big difference eh!

Homerr · May 11, 2003

Re: Brake Mechanic or guru please...

I actually mounted the discs in various positions and took readings. One side of the truck was a bit better than the other, but in all they were about .003". The truck drives like new now, and no pulsating pedal! WOO HOO!! Guess I did something right. I also changed all brake fluid which a lot of us do-it-yourself-er's overlook. The old fluid was black as gross. I agree. As inexpensive as the discs are (somewhat), from now on I will probably replace them when I replace the pads. That way there is no guessing involved. Besides...If you're willing to pay $300+ dollars to have a shop do your brakes (which usually involves turning a rotor, NOT replacing)...How many new rotors/pads can I buy with that? A few I would guess. Thanks again guys... Your help was appreciated. H.

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