bullhuss - 96 Johnson 115 oceanrunner - After Long Lay Up Questions

bullhuss

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Hi guys,...I am new on here so if you can bare with me' I just baugh a 96 Johnson 115 oceanrunner this motor hasn't beem running for two years , when I tried to run it I had no spark which turned out to be the opictal censor . my question is am I expection too much from a motor that hasn't run for that long . P.S. the guy I baugh it from sead it was running grate before he stored it , what is the overall taught's on these motors.
 

bullhuss

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Due to other callings I have just started back working on this motor' So here is what I have done . fitted the optic censor and have spark cleaned all the carbs which were full of water including the pump now ,, now I have clean fuel in all 4 carbs but when I try to start the motor It will fire with choke but wont start I have tried easy start only to get the same result after it fires it will keep swinging and wont fire . keep in mind this motor hasn't been started in 2 years any ideas would be much appreciated.
 

oldboat1

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What have you done about the fuel tank? Pumping more water into the system, or haven't completely cleaned out the fuel system, possibly.

You have to completely remove the water somehow. Pull the plugs -- clean and regap. Look for signs of moisture.

For a small amount of water you can use dry-gas to burn it off. Is the VRO still in place or are you premixing?

Post the model number. Carburated?
 

racerone

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With an optical sensor it would be a 60 degree looper style V-4 with 4 plastic carburetors.
 

oldboat1

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Thanks, Racer.

bullhuss -- carbs removed and cleaned? Also, still would be concerned about the fuel source. Portable tank for testing, perhaps?
 

bullhuss

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Thanks for getting back so quick guys, using portable tank the and premix,, they are the standard black plastic carbs there is fresh clean fuel coming through the small wire filters in the inlet manifold . should I have removed the manifold and cleaned them, Have a new set of plugs ordered thanks again guys will get back and let you know the result
 
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Chris1956

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After you make sure the fuel system is clean, if she still won't start, you need to check the ign system more. It sounds like you may only have spark when the motor is cranking. Check the wiring to see if the motor sends battery voltage to the powerpack during cranking. A lot of them do.

If so, you need to test the stator when the motor is cranking to see if it puts out the correct voltage to power the powerpack. There is a spec for the voltage at a certain crankiing RPM. I would recommend a factory service manual.
 

bullhuss

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,Thanks Chris 1956, I reflushed the fuel system and installed new plugs' It now starts and runs but very rough it will start with the first turn of the key but is missing and spluttering and wont throttle up' tomorrow I will try earthing the thermostat wire and see if that helps what do you think, also thanks to the two guys for there help.
 

bullhuss

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Forgot to add it will start with the key but wont switch off with the key or the lanyard could all this be connected
 

Chris1956

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Your keyswitch should ground the black/yellow wire, to kill the spark. I would check to make sure the keyswitch is connected to the black/yellow, and then if need be, that the black/yellow wire is connected to the powerpack.
 

bullhuss

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Thanks Chris, the loom is connected as is the key switch I am starting to think that its the switch it has been idle for over two years
 

Chris1956

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There also needs to be a good ground connected to the keyswitch as well. When the keyswitch is in the off position, the ground is supposed to be connected to the black/yellow wire. "Exercising" the keyswitch can make 'em work better.

On my '98 Johnny 150HPV6, I had some melted wires near the connection of the engine harness to the boat harness and where the boat harness connected to the dashboard. You might look it over to make sure the wires are intact.
 

bullhuss

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Sorted the key switch problem , but back to the drawing board with the motor tried to start it today no go'' so I removed the plugs and with a syringe I put fuel in the cylinders replaced the spark plugs it started first turn of the key and ran till it burned what was in the cylinders' this is the same fuel I have in the carbs so it cant be the fuel that's wrong' I then tried the intakes of the carbs with a squeeze bottle to see if it would work but no . So this is leading me to think the problem is between the carbs and the reed valves so I removed the carbs and the inlet manifolds the gaskets / seals seem to be damaged and some broken I must say they are very flimsy . Would this cause my problem it seems not to be drawing the fuel into the cylinders any ideas
 

Chris1956

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Gee, you still have not stated that you cleaned the carbs. At least, not so I understood it. If she will not draw fuel, the idle passages are a culprit.

The idle passages are in the throttle body. Covers can come off of it to allow cleaning. The high speed jet is it the carb bowl.
 

bullhuss

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Hi Chris the carbs have been cleaned and blown out they are spotless' when you talk about the trottle body this is the inlet manifold with the butterfly and the idle screw '...there are two small screws holding a small plate in place and a gasket inside it the idle screw screws into the manifold along side it . sorry for all the questions but its great to talk to someone who has done this before. thanks again.
 

Chris1956

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Unfortunately, the idle passages are in the aluminum throttle bodies, and it is hard to get at them without removing the throttle bodies. Carb kits usually come with the covers for both sides of the throttle body, but not with the throttle body-to-intake manifold gaskets.

So I would recommend you get two throttle body-to-intake manifold gaskets and remove the throttle bodies for a good cleaning. Replace the gaskets under the side covers and reset the idle mixture screws to spec. The spec for a 1998 60* 115HPV4 is 5-3/4 turns open.

Not sure if your motor is the same, but I think it likely.
 

bullhuss

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Hi Chris,..I removed the inlet manifolds yesterday to check the gaskets they were manky and broken in two places so two new ones are on order. I will clean out the trottle bodys and reset the mixture screws .here is hoping for the best...I will let you know the result. Thanks mate.
 

oldboat1

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http://ww2.iboats.com/Carburetor-Int...iew_id.1534752

Would help to get clear about the parts referenced (throttle body and carb body, for example). The idle needle is a mixture adjustment (air/fuel), not a throttle idle adjustment -- as you may know. (not sure what your model number is, as it hasn't been posted. You might start with that.)

Dasselbee mentioned the calibration adjustment in another post, and I think you mentioned it in passing (as I recall) -- the two-screw cover, which would be for the calibration pocket. You may need calibration adjustment, as should be described your service manual.
 
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