Bunk boards lost screws on new trailer

[Richard25ad]

I bought a new escape mid 2015. It came on an ezloader trailer. So this is my first boat purchase. I haven't used boat in 4 months due to an auto accident. the last time I launched the boat I noticed the bunk board was off the back mount due to screws missing. I put some screws back in and reloaded boat. Due to placement of bunk board I couldn't originally see any damage. I took a closer look while prepping for winter and noticed damage to boat where this had happen. I pulled boat over a bit and it is quite extensive, not all the way through though. So my question is should ezloader be liable for this. Having only used the boat 6 or 7 times should I reasonably expect to have to perform maintenance on a new trailer or for the bolts to fall out? My dealer didn't warn me to check these before I towed boat. Maybe I should have looked, just figured new trailer wouldn't give issues like this for a little bit.

 

[tpenfield]

Post a picture, if you can. Did you buy both boat and trailer from the same dealer? Your recourse is probably with the dealer. I think it may be a tough thing to pursue, but if you can get the dealer to fix the boat on their dime, then you are all set. The dealer would take the issue up with the trailer company.

 

[gm280]

Richard, I honestly don't know if will get anything from the boat dealer or the trailer manufacture. I see so many folks use lag bolts to install bunks on a trailer and they are installed from the underside of the mounting brackets. And that is why I never ever go that way.

The better way is to use carriage bolts and counter sink them in from the top and then use flat washers and lock washers with a nut. And if the nut ever works loose and falls off, the bunk stays where it was. But that is just my opinion.

 

[oldjeep]

Replace the lag bolts and use a bunch of epoxy in the holes. The carriage bolt thing is fine, but requires that you re-carpet your bunks and if one of them ever comes loose they you have a piece of metal potentially rubbing your hull.

 

[gm280]

Replace the lag bolts and use a bunch of epoxy in the holes. The carriage bolt thing is fine, but requires that you re-carpet your bunks and if one of them ever comes loose they you have a piece of metal potentially rubbing your hull.

I guess we have differencing views with carriage bolts. I use stainless steel carriage bolts that are installed from the top down. And I counter sink them and fill the holes with polyester resins and sand smooth. And then use a flat, lock washer and nut (even a locking type nut) from the bottom to attach them to the trailer brackets. Then carpet over them and install the bunks. So if any nut does come loose, the bunk stays in place and there is zero possibility for any bolt to ever try to touch the boat. It is still glued in place. But I understand everybody has their certain ways to do the same type jobs and that's great. Many options. JMHO!

 

[bruceb58]

Yeah, I took the carriage bolts out of my bunks and use lag bolts. My Wellcraft trailer had a mixture of carriage bolts and lag bolts. The lag bolts work way better. My pontoon trailer came with only lag bolts.

Like anything, if the person installing the lag bolts drilled the pilot hole too big or they used bad lumber, there might have been a problem because of that.

 

[smokeonthewater]

I'm pretty sure the question had nothing to do with how to attach the bunks to the trailer....

O/P you need to start with your dealer and go from there... Since this is a new boat, do you have full coverage insurance on it? If so that is another option for getting it fixed.

 

[GA_Boater]

I'm pretty sure the question had nothing to do with how to attach the bunks to the trailer....

O/P you need to start with your dealer and go from there... Since this is a new boat, do you have full coverage insurance on it? If so that is another option for getting it fixed.

+1

Start with the dealer. If he's a dealer wanting to keep your future business - Who knows what can happen? It may be something bad on the trailer, either materials or set-up.

 

[thumpar]

I guess we have differencing views with carriage bolts. I use stainless steel carriage bolts that are installed from the top down. And I counter sink them and fill the holes with polyester resins and sand smooth. And then use a flat, lock washer and nut (even a locking type nut) from the bottom to attach them to the trailer brackets. Then carpet over them and install the bunks. So if any nut does come loose, the bunk stays in place and there is zero possibility for any bolt to ever try to touch the boat. It is still glued in place. But I understand everybody has their certain ways to do the same type jobs and that's great. Many options. JMHO!

The only problem is the bunks float when they come loose so they will still go out of place. Lags are also easier to fix on the ramp.

 

[smokeonthewater]

And off topic again.....

 

[airshot]

Definetly go back to the dealer, if reputable he will take care of it. If he refuses then.......check with the local news station and see if they would do a story on it, or take pics and post them around town of the type of business the dealer does. Post pics on any local advertising (paper-markets) etc and let the public know how you were treated. Then don't be surprised if you don't get a call from the dealer "wanting to work something out". Bad publicity is a NO NO...to much competition today.
If you are diligent enough it will get resolved....

 

[jbcurt00]

Lets leave this at taking it to the dealer.

Negative reviews, public complaints and bad press doesnt always help the problem at hand, so proceed at your own discresion. And could force the dealer to stand his ground.

Entirely premature to be doing anything beyond contacting the dealer and your insurance agent. 1 or the other may offer helpdul advice, but only if not treated adversarially