Bunks left 2 small hooks in the aluminum hull. ZC /epoxy/hair?

BananasCentral

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We're making progress!
I can't see how I could ever beat aluminum perfect and am interested in filling the depressions with filled epoxy, then relocating the bunks.
Surface prep would be sand/alodine/ZC then marine epoxy with hair.

What is the rate of delamination on that type or repair?

Does the ZC split out from flexing?

What are the ideas for handling oilcanning around riveted lifting strakes?

Yes I am aware of the leak right there. ↓↓↓

Hull%20hook%20nordic%20bunks_zpsi0dd8ybt.jpg . fetch?id=10280871&d=1474560469.jpg
fetch?id=10280870&d=1474560456.jpg
 
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Scott Danforth

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Your bunks should go just past the transom. I suggest pulling the boat forward 2-3"
 

gm280

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Other then re-positioning the boat on the trailer as Scott stated above, I would simply clean the hull and do nothing else if it were mine. I certainly would not be applying any resin or any filler on that hull. JMHO
 

Watermann

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The bunks need repositioned for sure and I would re-work the trailer into a 4 bunk configuration to eliminate any further issues.

The pics don't show how deep the impression is into the bottom of the hull have you measured the "hook" you're referring to? If you're dead set on filling the impressions then my advice would be to strip the paint, sand with 220g and apply Marine Tex epoxy.

The oilcan thing I don't see any way to repair that other than replacing the obviously loose rivets with new solids sealed with 5200.
 

BananasCentral

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The oilcan can wait till I'm done replacing foam and decking. Just asking.

:)
Yes moving the winch post forward was a 20 min job done easily.
It's also eventual to install 2 more bunks to distribute the weight more widely in the rear.

Can we get a second against filling? Does that only work on composite boats?

Depth of depressions is roughly 3/16ths, they would feather out (mind your bondline thickness! ) slightly larger than a sheet of notebook paper.
I'm not looking for make-work, but the hook question shows up frequently and I like to get things handled if it's a real issue.

What is the rate of delamination assuming best practices and materials? (sand/acid/alodine/ZC/epoxy/paint)
Could I expect this to be a 10 year repair? Or will it be a maypop?
 
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gm280

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BC, I am reasonable sure that you can easily make epoxy or polyester resins stick very well to the cleaned bare prepared aluminum. However, I would wait to see if there is any reason to try and do that. After you run the boat a few times, see if there are any situations from the "hook" first. If so then address them. Like you said, don't make work for no reason. JMHO
 

Scott Danforth

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since you already have the floor and foam out. use a block of wood and a 5# fist maul to knock the hook out from inside. its a beercan with a propeller. got dented one way, so dent it back the other
 

Bondo

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Can we get a second against filling?

Ayuh,..... 2nded,.... If anything, I'd beat it out from inside,....

Does the hook effect the hull's handlin' at all,..??
Does it plane out properly,..??
Does trimmin' the motor raise the bow,..??
What's the problem,..??
 
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BananasCentral

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Uh.... my fist mauls start at 11..... maybe I can get Girlscout to help........ ;)

Could I really go wrong by removing this defect?
 

gm280

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BC, have you actually driven this boat on any water yet? If so were there any issues? Because if there are no issues boating with it, why even try to remove the dents. Since you stated it was merely 3/16" I wouldn't even consider working on them unless there was an issue on the water. But that is just my $0.02 cents worth.

If you are absolutely dead set to remove them, then use a block of wood with round over edges to dampen any sharp edges against the aluminum and use something on the outside of the hull that is both flat and straight so you are pushing the dent out to a flat object. I good piece of 1/4" steel plate that covers the entire dented area would be perfect if you can find such. That way you can't go further then straight and flat as you work the dent out. And start the push/pound out slowly around all the edges with very gentle hammer hits against the block of wood and not directly in the center of the dent. Again just my opinion.
 
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Watermann

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I guess I eluded to the fact that I wouldn't bother with those dents on the bottom and that if you were dead set on repairing them I gave you my advice on a way more simple way to do it. I've never seen or done an AL boat dent repair using the multiple layers like you're talking about. Seems like there's a lot that can go wrong the more steps involved. Then there's the down the road some day impact on that repair which could fracture it leaving a mess.

Properly mixed and applied Marine Tex is absolutely the most effective dent repair 2 part epoxy in my experience. It becomes tougher than the AL it's on and sands out great. I've never had any come loose on a properly prepped surface.

I really doubt there will be an issue with that small amount of denting, I've seen much worse and it's not been an issue.
 

BananasCentral

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I'm not sure if I'll do anything at all.

I'm not complaining about the ride, but I do have the floor open and am looking to get things handled before replacing the flotation and building decks.
It could ride a little higher, ride a little smoother, ride a little faster, all without hurting my feelings!

If there were a complaint it'd be that trimming this boat out makes it ride rough as heck in anything more than ripples.
Very "tin boat" feel of pounding and generally getting beat about.SAM_0625_zpslwqt3mwi.jpg
 
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Teamster

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I wouldn't do anything other than run it the way it is,..

Years ago Alumacraft had some handling/planning problems and their fix was to have someone at the dealerships use a hammed and chisel to put a hook into the hull,..........
 

jbcurt00

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Tinnys ride rougher then heavier fiberglass boats, thats a common complaint.

If you try to pound the hook/dent back out, do so carefully so to not go to far the other way.

I too would probably let it go, it isnt much of a hook...
 

BananasCentral

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Yah ok thanks guys.

The boat does lean a few degrees to port when planed out. To be clear, this boat is designed to run with a lot of hull still in the water and it's not unstable, just leaning.
A 250lbs offset will return the boat to level. "Hey chubs, come stand over here!"

It rides better with the bow down anyway and I've been shifting weight forward to unload the stern.
2 of 3 bats are now forward, eventually all will be forward with the new decks.
I thought this would likely be
load distribution (kicker and main fuel both to port though they should be evenly offset by bat + aux fuel to starboard)
maybe the slightly bent skeg (fixed )
or prop torque (moving to a 4 blade stern lifter)




I might give the port side hook a couple love taps and see if the attitude changes at all. If it doesn't do something amazing then they'll stay just this way.
 
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Bondo

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I might give the port side hook a couple love taps and see if the attitude changes at all. If it doesn't do something amazing then they'll stay just this way.

Ayuh,..... Aluminum don't really like alota love taps,..... a blow or two works much Better,.....
A single wack it Best,...

Love taps cause work hardenin' in aluminum, which requires annealin' to soften again,....
Otherwise, it cracks,....
 
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