Burning wood with latex house paint?

j_martin

Admiral
Joined
Sep 22, 2006
Messages
7,474
Re: Burning wood with latex house paint?

There's a couple of reasons for a pressurized boiler, and neither is about water temperature.

You need a pressurized system to circulate water very far over the boiler, or else the tiniest pinhole leak, which would be of no consequence if it leaked water would cause an air lock, loss of circulation, and in extremely cold weather could even cause a freeze-up.

The other reason to pressurize a system is to close the system to oxygen. Oxygen from the atmosphere, if allowed to dissolve in heating system water, wil then be consumed by oxidizing metal parts. By pressurizing the system, you prevent that. What oxygen is in the original water is quickly consumed, and no more enters.

If an open system boiler is not properly maintained, it's life will be pretty short, no matter how thick it is. Manufacturers warranties are void if you don't test the boiler water frequently, and treat it with chemicals they supply to prevent oxygen damage.

A pressurized domestic water boiler is limited to 30 lbs. If it's properly installed and has proper controls, the pressure relief valve should never operate. They are extremely safe as designed.


hope it helps
 

dr_bowtie

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2009
Messages
281
Re: Burning wood with latex house paint?

There's a couple of reasons for a pressurized boiler, and neither is about water temperature.

You need a pressurized system to circulate water very far over the boiler, or else the tiniest pinhole leak, which would be of no consequence if it leaked water would cause an air lock, loss of circulation, and in extremely cold weather could even cause a freeze-up.

The other reason to pressurize a system is to close the system to oxygen. Oxygen from the atmosphere, if allowed to dissolve in heating system water, wil then be consumed by oxidizing metal parts. By pressurizing the system, you prevent that. What oxygen is in the original water is quickly consumed, and no more enters.

If an open system boiler is not properly maintained, it's life will be pretty short, no matter how thick it is. Manufacturers warranties are void if you don't test the boiler water frequently, and treat it with chemicals they supply to prevent oxygen damage.

A pressurized domestic water boiler is limited to 30 lbs. If it's properly installed and has proper controls, the pressure relief valve should never operate. They are extremely safe as designed.


hope it helps

Actually this is wrong...all of it...

Water or any liquid actually flows less under pressure...you will lose the flow volume the more pressure is in the system...as it has to fight itself under pressure and in volume...it's been proven many times you get a better flow with no pressure and a more complete flow as the pump doesnt have to overcome the residual pressure to push the fluid against itself...this is like turning the outside hose on and noting the flow...now put your thumb over the end...now you have pressure but less flow...

anytime you add heat to water you'll get oxygen bubbles whether the system is open or closed...just like heating water in a pan to boil you get oxygen bubbles forming on the bottom of the pan...pressurize the pan with a clear lid and you still see the bubbles...I have personally done this test...

this is why they put an expansion tank on pressurized boilers...this doubles as an air trap...and they also need air bleeds at every fixture...my unit did not require this at all...all air was pushed to the water fill box...

Also oil in the unit will help with corrosion and water evap...trick I learned from an under-water welder...

I ran my unit 2 years straight with no coating on the inner steel and there was no corrosion and the steel was still shiny when drained...I added nothing

the reasone for presure in the pressurized boilers is to cut way down on evap...and some closed unit have glycol in the system...as the water heats it steams a little and instead of evaperating off it is held in the system this is what makes the pressure...on cold pressure should be 0-5psi...I ran mine pressure boiler at 5psi...my old house had a natural gas fired boiler....I ran that thing 15 years...and I rebuilt it once with the help of my neighbor who is a boiler specialist...that how I learned...
 

j_martin

Admiral
Joined
Sep 22, 2006
Messages
7,474
Re: Burning wood with latex house paint?

Actually this is wrong...all of it...

Water or any liquid actually flows less under pressure...you will lose the flow volume the more pressure is in the system...as it has to fight itself under pressure and in volume...it's been proven many times you get a better flow with no pressure and a more complete flow as the pump doesnt have to overcome the residual pressure to push the fluid against itself...this is like turning the outside hose on and noting the flow...now put your thumb over the end...now you have pressure but less flow...

anytime you add heat to water you'll get oxygen bubbles whether the system is open or closed...just like heating water in a pan to boil you get oxygen bubbles forming on the bottom of the pan...pressurize the pan with a clear lid and you still see the bubbles...I have personally done this test...

this is why they put an expansion tank on pressurized boilers...this doubles as an air trap...and they also need air bleeds at every fixture...my unit did not require this at all...all air was pushed to the water fill box...

Also oil in the unit will help with corrosion and water evap...trick I learned from an under-water welder...

I ran my unit 2 years straight with no coating on the inner steel and there was no corrosion and the steel was still shiny when drained...I added nothing

the reasone for presure in the pressurized boilers is to cut way down on evap...and some closed unit have glycol in the system...as the water heats it steams a little and instead of evaperating off it is held in the system this is what makes the pressure...on cold pressure should be 0-5psi...I ran mine pressure boiler at 5psi...my old house had a natural gas fired boiler....I ran that thing 15 years...and I rebuilt it once with the help of my neighbor who is a boiler specialist...that how I learned...

I guess you don't have to understand the difference between static pressure and flow dynamics to post. Same for most of the other points.

FYI, my pressurized wood boiler is going on 30 years continuous use. Several chimneys and sets of brickwork and retainers, but no measurable vessel damage.

John
 

dr_bowtie

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2009
Messages
281
Re: Burning wood with latex house paint?

I guess you don't have to understand the difference between static pressure and flow dynamics to post. Same for most of the other points.

FYI, my pressurized wood boiler is going on 30 years continuous use. Several chimneys and sets of brickwork and retainers, but no measurable vessel damage.

John

those ones are tanks...the one we had was put in in 1947 when the house was built...I only replaced it in 2004 because I moved it and cracked the seals between teh cast-iron rings..and I had access to another boiler for free that was bigger than mine...

the new ones are definitely nice..they are very efficient to the fact the automatically adjust the gas valve depending on load...meaning they can ramp up/down the flame depending on heat needed...

I tweaked mine pretty good...I ran the circulation pump full time and that cut down on the fuel bill and I also adjusted teh flame on the burner to shave fuel as well...I heated a 900sq ft home (my 1st home) for 60.00 a month thru the winter months...
 
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