Burnt Wires on Regulator Rectifier (2001 90 HP Johnson)

stewtn

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 22, 2013
Messages
40
New boat for me and the battery was not charging... Finally got a chance to inspect the regulator rectifier on my 2001 90 HP Johnson (model J90PLSID) and found that the connector wires from the stator are fried.
Questions - 1. Should I just replace the connector and wires or the entire regulator/rectifier and the connector.
2. To replace the connector, can I cut the old wires and splice in new ones or do I need to replace the whole wiring thing from the stator?
3. The boat runs fine should I disconnect the
regulator rectifier from the stator and operate the boat until I can fix it? (and charge the battery after use)?

Some pics



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legalfee

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 10, 2018
Messages
396
I would use the troubleshooting guide at CDI Electronics
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,145
Gee, First I would check the charging wire for melted or shorted spots. These should be easy to spot. Next check the grey tach signal wire for melting or shorting to ground. You should probably use an ohmmeter to help find any shorts.

I would then jumper the wiring and see if the regulator is still good (will charge). If not, get a new regulator, and replace the engine harness connector if you cannot fix it.

If she charges, you might check the voltage on the VR for AC voltage. That would indicate that the rectifier inside the VR is partially bad.
 

stewtn

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 22, 2013
Messages
40
Guys, I got a chance to do some testing and I really need some help.

1. I tested the R/R (diode test) per specs and all was good.
2. No obvious breaks in R/R charging cable.
3. This R/R does not have a ground wire
4. I had to cut out the burnt connector and connected the Stator to the R/R and then measured the charging output at battery with engine running and it was working as intended!

5. Next I checked the Stator wires (Ohms reading was in spec)
6. Next checked AC output from stator and was getting a good AC output from the 2 yellow wires
7. Finally I checked the Stator to Ground. This is one area I need more input. Everything online says to test for ground (which is bad) is to (using Ohms) to connect one lead to the yellow stator wire and the other to ground (I chose the engine block (no paint). If you don't get a reading (Mine stays at OL) then its good - No short to ground. However my SELCO manual says the opposite. It says you should get a high reading, which means the stator is good.

When I did the test, I did not get a reading from either yellow wires. Can someone help!

As a side note. reconnecting the stator and R/R still did not give me a tach reading (but this is a new boat for me and I don't know the history of the tach).
Could my melted connector be just a bad connection and nothing more?
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,579
Taking a reading from one yellow to ground should give you very high OHMS or INFINITY some say.----My meter shows OL when not connected to anything so that is very high resistance.-----So if you do not get a reading it is very high resistance or it shows OL on many meters.-----Wording is the issue with some manuals..
 
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Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,931
Get rid of the Selco manual.....only good for toilet paper. Also change impeller if it over 2 years old as the R/R is water cooled.
 
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