Buying a 1998 Mariner 200 EFI - Survey Found 2 Issues........

quaylefarmer

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Had a mechanical survey done today on a 1998 Mariner 200 EFI that I am looking to buy.

Everything checked out great with the exception of the following:

- Wires connecting stator and voltage regulators show signs of heat
** DEALER RECOM. REPLACING THE STATOR AND BOTH REGULATORS

- The end seals on the SeaStar hydraulic steering are leaking
** DEALER ROCOM REPLACING SEALES

They are working up a cost to repair both. I am researching these issues now but wanted to throw this up on the board to see what you guys thought.........


Both the boat and motor appear to have been very well taken care of and maintained.

Should the regulators and stators be replaced due to "heat signs" if the motor is running well otherwise?

Could these issues be the sign of other problems/abuse?

Thanks for your help!
 

j_martin

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Re: Buying a 1998 Mariner 200 EFI - Survey Found 2 Issues........

The stator connections to the voltage regulators are suspect as designed. Often they overheat. They are 10 amp bullet connectors carrying 20 amps. Save the money and after verifying the correct operation of each regulator, cut the connectors out and splice and solder the connections.

The regulators run independently. Either will charge the battery at about 20 amps, and run the tachometer. If both work, then hook them both up. If one doesn't replace it.

I set up all new components on my bass boat, with relay logic to charge all batteries on board when the engine is running. (pretty much max load all the time) Took about a week to take out the bullet connectors. Spliced them and all is good.

hope it helps
john
 

quaylefarmer

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Re: Buying a 1998 Mariner 200 EFI - Survey Found 2 Issues........

Thanks John!

I will dive into the regulators and test individually.

I assume a DVM is all that is needed......is there a procedure anywhere?

Jacob
 

j_martin

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Re: Buying a 1998 Mariner 200 EFI - Survey Found 2 Issues........

Ordinary DC voltmeter is all you need. Your battery voltage should be a little over 12V before cranking. It should go up in voltage, depending on battery charge state when the engine is running, as high as 14.5V if the battery is topped off. The tachometer hooked to the grey lead of the one under test should operate normally. thththththaatttss all there is to it.

hope it helps
John
 

quaylefarmer

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Re: Buying a 1998 Mariner 200 EFI - Survey Found 2 Issues........

Thanks again John.

I went to the dealer today and looked at this first hand.

The only signs of heat are at the bullet connectors on the yellow wires running to the regulators (please see picture below)

One has melted the clear insulator.

The wires themselves look perfect: not brittle, discolored, etc... (they look new)

IMG_02342.jpg
[/IMG]

IMG_02331.jpg
[/IMG]
 

j_martin

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Re: Buying a 1998 Mariner 200 EFI - Survey Found 2 Issues........

Looks pretty normal to me.

CharredConnectors.jpg


Soldered.jpg


Insulated.jpg
 

quaylefarmer

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Re: Buying a 1998 Mariner 200 EFI - Survey Found 2 Issues........

even that second one that is totaly black and melted through the insulator??
 

j_martin

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Re: Buying a 1998 Mariner 200 EFI - Survey Found 2 Issues........

even that second one that is totaly black and melted through the insulator??

The point is, the regulators were fine, only the connectors were burned. Illustrated is the permanent solution.
 
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