Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

79calglass

Cadet
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
20
Hello,

I'm buying a 2009 Maxum 1800 SR3 3.0L Mercruiser with Alpha 1.

I'm buying it from a dealer who has agreed to make it mechanically sound before I take ownership.

The leg has clearly hit rocks or something. The prop is badly damaged and the fin is broken off, the bottom of the leg is smashed up. It runs fine.

I'm wondering what concerns I should have with the repairs. Should the entire leg be replaced including prop? Are there engine issues I should be concerned about related to this?

The rest of the boat is in good shape and appears to have low hours

Thanks!

Prop.JPG
 

Jmunk

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 31, 2007
Messages
295
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

Dealer will most likely weld on a new skeg and put on a new or used prop.
 

90stingray

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
1,162
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

I would want a new skeg welded on or if they want to pop for a new lower assembly. I would not like to have a skeggard bolted over that. I have done it and didn't really like the appearance afterwards. And a new prop would be nice. They would probably only get you an aluminum 3 bladed one. Maybe you could keep the ss and have it repaired? Best of luck.
 

Maddoxsdaddy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
222
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

I would be concerned with possible upper unit damage and maybe transom damage from a hard hit. It takes alot to break off a skeg and bend up a SS prop like that.
 

sschefer

Rear Admiral
Joined
Nov 13, 2008
Messages
4,530
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

I'd tell him not to fix it but rather deduct the cost of a rebuilt from the price of the boat and then use the money to replace it. Done deal and you've got a unit you know you can trust. If he won't go that route walk away. Sounds to me like he's a cheap bugger and taking you for a ride.
 

QC

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Messages
22,783
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

Yeah, while I am not worried about a repair, engine damage or long term issues, I can't help but wonder about a dealer who would display that as is. Also, FWIW, depending on what you plan to do with your boat, a 3.0 setup may not meet your performance expectations.
 

bnicov

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 25, 2009
Messages
348
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

You need to take it for a test run before delivery after it is fixed. I doubt that there would be engine damage but am positive that there is damage to the lower unit, prop shaft bent, etc.... It needs a skeg to be welded on which is no big deal and a new prop. It should be fine and if you are getting the boat for a deal then go for it but it has to be repaired before you pay them and let them know that you won't be taking delivery until the necessary repairs are done to your satisfaction. Lower units getting beat up is common and boat techs know what to look for and what to repair. Enjoy!!
 

79calglass

Cadet
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
20
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

Hi, Thanks for the feedback.

The boat is priced about $4000 below its value. They have agreed to make it mechanically sound before I take it away and yes I will be taking it for a test drive.

What is the replacement cost for a lower unit?

QC - I would prefer a 4.3, but it is out of my budget. I can get an older boat in rougher shape with a 4.3, or this new boat in mint shape (but for the LU). Wife prefers the nice boat, I'm trying to find one mechanically sound.

The dealer is Aquatica in Langley, BC. It's supposed to be fixed today and the test drive tonight. I will let you know how it goes.

Any suggestions of what to look for on the test drive?
 

MarkSee

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,172
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

Hi, Thanks for the feedback.

The boat is priced about $4000 below its value. They have agreed to make it mechanically sound before I take it away and yes I will be taking it for a test drive.

What is the replacement cost for a lower unit? QC - I would prefer a 4.3, but it is out of my budget. I can get an older boat in rougher shape with a 4.3, or this new boat in mint shape (but for the LU). Wife prefers the nice boat, I'm trying to find one mechanically sound.

The dealer is Aquatica in Langley, BC. It's supposed to be fixed today and the test drive tonight. I will let you know how it goes.

Any suggestions of what to look for on the test drive?

Not sure if the cost in BC is different or not but a quick search for your cost question and I would guess you would want to replace the entire drive since exactly which part(s) may be damaged:
1-right here on iboats from $1,495 to $2,250 depending on 'vendor' selected:
http://www.boatmotors.com/motorparts/index.cgi?flag=1&engine_type=sterndrive&part=202&manufacturer=2
2-roughly $2,200 for a Mercury replacement http://www.crowleymarine.com/sterndrives/mercruiser/alpha1gen2_complete.cfm
3-roughly $1,500 for SEI replacment: http://www.sterndrive.cc/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=MercruiserAlphaGenIISterndrive

I would think on the test drive if anything was really damaged there would be some bad vibrations being felt or maybe unable to achieve WOT effectively. Check for relatively stable higher speed banking turns and if making changes to drive positioning while underway at speed do you see a change in speed/rpm. Of course after the test ride is over with the boat on the trailer still on the ramp, pull the drain plug and see what/how much comes out.

Mark
 

QC

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Messages
22,783
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

Even if there is no vibration, I think I'd also want to see a propeller shaft run out. Witness it. You're looking for a bent propshaft. And check the condition of the drive lube after the test. No water, no milkiness. Some metal filings on the magnetic plug is normal, so don't freak out if you see some there. They should've drained and replaced if they welded the skeg. I wouldn't accept a Skegard repair as some have mentioned.
 

79calglass

Cadet
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
20
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

Hello,
Finally supposed to have the sea trial today.
The dealer, Aquatica, has been very difficult. They first wanted to put a skeggard on the fin and that was it. The prop shaft was clearly bent and the mechanic said the lower unit needed to be replaced. First they tried to put a used unit on, finally they popped for a new unit. Today the tach is still missing and we are still arguing over the prop (SS which was severely bent). The mechanic says the boat can't run with the prop, the owner says he's not replacing it. Anyways, somehow we will get a basic aluminum on there.

Another thing I noticed with the boat is it says 2007 on the engine, but the serial number on the boat says 2009. Would Maxum continue to put a 2007 engine into an 09 boat or is this a used replacement?

Also, the ski storage locker has a green grime in it, as do other areas of the bilge. Some people have put the thought of the boat sinking into my head, but I don't think it sunk, it's interior is in too good of condition. Would this grime be from undrained bilge? How can I tell if it's from fresh water or salt?

Thanks!
 

250Gimp

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 13, 2007
Messages
145
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

Hi There

I have the same boat, but with the 4.3l MPI, and we love the boat, as I am sure you will!

There is a chance they put an older motor in the newer hull, but I would try to see if you can confirm what engine serial number was put in the hull at time of manufacture.

The test drive shuold show up any problems with the motor, but you may want to try for a 30 or 60 day warranty, depending on when your boating season starts (no point in 30 days if you wont use the boat for 40 days)

As for the green slime, I would try to see how far up the bilge it goes. The boat could have taken on some water and sat with it for a bit growing the green stuff, but not fully sunk. My boat has some brown staining in the bilge and ski locker and it is just from the high iron content in the local waterway I am on from small amounts of water flowing back and forth in the bilge while towing kids.

By the way, I put smart tabs on my boat, and found a big difference for bow rise, and wake for tow sports! PM me with any other questions.

Cheers
CP
 

79calglass

Cadet
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
20
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

Hello CP,

Thanks for the response. I will check the serial numbers.

The dealer put a new prop on, I put in new plugs and tested the compression, 150 across all 4.

We test drove the boat on the river, it was slow out of the hole, at first I thought it was just the 3.0, but later when running at WOT, 43mph, the boat chugged and quit. Apparently it's sat for a few years, so I'm thinking it's old fuel and maybe a clogged fuel filter? I'm hoping that it was slow out of the hole due to bad fuel/ clogged filter, because my 70hp evinrude had a faster take off than that.

We could not get it re-started and got a tow back to the launch.

The boat is back in the shop.

Thanks.
 

QC

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Messages
22,783
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

What was your WOT RPM? That will help us understand if the hole shot is representative. If she made it to 43 MPH (GPS?) then she was running quite well for a few mins :)
 

79calglass

Cadet
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
20
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

What was your WOT RPM? That will help us understand if the hole shot is representative. If she made it to 43 MPH (GPS?) then she was running quite well for a few mins :)

Unfortunately there is no tach. The tach was removed. I asked for one, even temporary for the test, but they had several excuses and never provided one. So, I don't know the rpms. I'm trying to track down a new tach. Do you know where I can buy Faria guages in Vancouver? Can I use any old tach off the shelf for the next test run?

The 43 mph was on the speedo, not gps.
 

QC

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Messages
22,783
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

Seems like you are doing a good job with this, so I'd borrow a handheld GPS, and I'd get a tiny tach or something similar. I don't know Vancouver, so can't help there, but make sure whatever you use is reading right!!
 

250Gimp

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 13, 2007
Messages
145
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

I agree with QC

Get a little tach so you can check what you are running at.

The 1800 is a pretty heavy boat. Even with the 4.3 MPI in mine it doesn't have a blistering hole shot.

As for speed, just use a smart phone with gps if you have one. My blackberry is fairly accurate reading speed with the map app and gps.

Cheers
 

79calglass

Cadet
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
20
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

Hello,

The mechanic claims it was a loose wire on the coil that fell off. He claims that while we were changing the plugs, the wire was hit loose, then when we were cruising and hit a wave it fell off. I'm skeptical but I'm going to give it another sea trial.

Gimp - You say even with a 4.3 it's slow out of the hole? I remember with my old outboard I would put my arm into it and it would jump. With this boat, it definitely felt like when I pushed the throttle down, there was lag as it thought about taking off.

Thanks.
 

250Gimp

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 13, 2007
Messages
145
Re: Buying a boat that the prop / leg hit rocks

Good luck with the sea trial!

I am just saying that it is a heavy boat, so it may not jump like a light boat with an outboard. It shouldn't lag or hesitate though.

I have never been in a boat with a 3.0, so I have no reference as to what is quick or not.

You may want to consider getting the mechanic to hook up a shop tach for the sea trial. That will allow you to see what rpm you are running at wide open throttle, and cruise. You want to be between 4200 and 4600 rpm (I think for 3.0) at WOT. If you are lower you may have too big a prop on. If you are above, you have too smalla prop on for general use. There are always variables to the rule though, but at least you will get an idea how it is running and propped.

Cheers
 
Top