Cable coax

SS MAYFLOAT

Admiral
Joined
May 17, 2001
Messages
6,372
We have a DVR in our living room and a converter box in the rec room. The cable is hooked to a TV that just gives the basic channels in our bedroom. One small bedroom was turned into the computer room. It has one cable that goes to the main splitter.

During my re-wire of my house, I put cable outlets with phone jacks on each wall. Each room has 4 jacks that are daisy chained to one coax at the main splitter on the outside (except the computer room). The one that supplys the line for our bedroom also has the phone modem for our telephone.

Now here's my problem. The converter box in rec room started freezing and what I call digital breakdown. Bits and pieces gone in the picture. I had my wife take it back to the cable company. She came home with a new DVR and a converter box. I hook up the converter up in the rec room. It boots up, the clock shows the time and the sceen goes blue. Turn the box on and it sez "This converter box has not been authorized. Call blah blah ah yeah". Okay I'm dismayed but go see if the DVR in the bedroom works. Geeesh, it boots up on 4 of the 6 bars. After six minuets the screen goes blank and boots up again only getting 4 bars of the download.

Wife calls the tech center about the problems of both. They say I have a week signal. So I go cleaning and tighening what juctions I can get to. Finally I got fed up and removed our good DVR in the living and put the converter box in. Again the same message came up. Hmmmmm The DVR works fine on this line, but the box don't. So now I try the new DVR on a known good line. It booted up in about 2 minuets with all the channels and guide. Works fine. Now I thought I would hook up the original DVR on the line in the bedroom to see if it would work there. NO POWER! Yikes now what. The DVR will not turn on. Geeesh, all I did was shut it off and unhook it. Now it won't come back on. The remote won't turn it on or the button.

Could all the cable that is run throughout the house be drawing the db's to cause a week signal? Its odd that I can hook up a TV on any of the outlets and it works fine. All the splitters that I used was supplied by the cable company. Thier tech told me how to run and do the project. BTW, I even tried the conveter box right at the main splitter on the outside of the house and got the same message. So it has to be bad. The new DVR works, but now I need to get them to give me another DVR that lost power. Thats a 3 gallon road trip. I think they should at least give us some movies for free. I'm not ranting,,,,,,just wonderin
 

Limited-Time

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,820
Re: Cable coax

FWIW Daisy Channing is a no-no with cable/sat lines. I did the same thing the first time I wired a house. The cable guy that came out to trouble shoot the system set me straight.:redface::redface:
 

i386

Captain
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
3,548
Re: Cable coax

You should see numbers on your splitters. Those numbers are how many Db of signal you lose. Add 'em up. You also lose about 1db for a barrel connector. I hope you're using RG-6 cable (not RG-59).
 

Xcusme

Commander
Joined
Apr 21, 2003
Messages
2,888
Re: Cable coax

AND, what kind of cable ends (F-connectors) are you using??
 

JCF350

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
1,149
Re: Cable coax

I hope you're using RG-6 cable (not RG-59).

Why?
Whole house is RG-59 left over from a 10' Bird View sat system
I pay for 7Mb/s cable and get it on every speedtest I can find.
Or is that about the limit for RG-59?
 

SS MAYFLOAT

Admiral
Joined
May 17, 2001
Messages
6,372
Re: Cable coax

The coax is from the cable company. I got the stuff through the barter system so to speak. He needed a AC compressor in his house, so we sorta traded. I just went by his drawings and used the splitters in the places he told me to.

I probably mistakeinly used the wrong term daisy chain. One line from the main splitter goes to a room. Once the line is at the room, it splits off two ways. Each one of those leads were split to go to two walls and the other to the other two walls.

What gets me is that I've used those outlets before with the box. Had no problems at all. Just with the new ones. He did tell me that only one line in a room should be used because for each item added will drain the db's.

Think after this weekend, I'll give him a call (if he is still around, its been several years since I've seen him). I will be headed to the lake and won't be back till Monday, so I'll post when I get back,,,,,,Have a great weekend!.......SS
 

NSBCraig

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 21, 2007
Messages
1,907
Re: Cable coax

When wiring a house for cable you don't split any of the runs, they all should be home runs going to one location where they are attached to a (as in one) splitter (usually right next to attic access) then from there one run goes outside to the cable company.

Every connector and every splitter is dropping your signal causing your problem. Even jack plates drop it.

Talk to the guy cause I hope he didn't tell you to run it like you did and he should have told you to run rg-6 cause there is no sense in rewiring your whole house with the wrong product.
 

i386

Captain
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
3,548
Re: Cable coax

I can only speak from personal experience with RG-59 and RG-6. Back around 2001 I did some contract work with Charter Communications. They were doing the initial roll out of their "high speed" internet service. A certain level of signal was required to get the modems to acquire. Most of the houses that had RG-59 wouldn't pass with the meter so we had to pull all new RG-6 in. I don't have numbers, but with RG-6 you'll have significantly less signal loss per foot.

Also, to terminate the cables I would recommend high quality "snap-n-seal" connectors. You probably won't find these at Home Depot and you'll need a special tool. I have one like this and I believe it's called an IT1000. The ends I used are made by Thomas and Betts (T&B) but there are other brands. The ferules are color coded for different applications but any of them will work for indoor use IMO. You just wouldn't want an indoor one in an outdoor environment, but vice-versa is no problem.

1fa0e20b0.jpg


snapnseal.jpg


I have a 3-way splitter here and it says 7, 7, and 3.5 on the outputs. That's telling you how much db loss there is on each output. If you split again you simply add the numbers on the next splitter. Barrels are about 1db and you also lose some over a given length but I couldn't tell you what that is.

You should also have RG-6 coming into the house from the pole or "tombstone". If it's a long run you may even need RG-11.


You can do some tests by just making yourself a long test cable and run that from your main splitter to wherever you want to test. You can also make up some short jumper cables and put splitters in there to see where you lose signal at. It's the "poor man's db meter" if you will.

Your cable guy may have a db meter to help you troubleshoot.


** I'm not an expert on this. These are just some things I learned from the cable guys, but I hope this info is helpful.
 

Xcusme

Commander
Joined
Apr 21, 2003
Messages
2,888
Re: Cable coax

EDIT: There was a post, just above mine here, by a new poster that was pure spam and seems to have been DELETED by the admins.

I'm posting this edit to explain that I wasn't commenting on i386's post...

-------------------------------------------------
WOW !!! What spam!! Talk about a NO NO...gees.

BTW, i386, I use the same tool and connectors all the time....fast and easy.
 

muskyone

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 17, 2003
Messages
814
Re: Cable coax

it could be a ton of stuff you may have a nail through the cable somewere and yes you need good conections and dont use outdoor cable indoors the flooding leaks out a 2 way splitter loses 3.5 a 3 way loses 7.5 rg 59 coax loses 7.54 db at 870 meg per 100 ft rg6 is 6.09 if you left any coils of coax in the basement get rid of them and make sure all the splitters say 870 or 1000 meg on them you can buy snap and seal connecters from graybar or ask a cable guy for some most will give ya a hand full and the splitter i386 is talking about thats 7 7 3.5 is a direct coupler the 3.5 would go to the next splitter in line or the longest run mostly used for modem line there that will be the longest sentance ever see what happens when you spend 23 years in cable
 

beerfilter

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 11, 2007
Messages
305
Re: Cable coax

it could be a ton of stuff you may have a nail through the cable somewere and yes you need good conections and dont use outdoor cable indoors the flooding leaks out a 2 way splitter loses 3.5 a 3 way loses 7.5 rg 59 coax loses 7.54 db at 870 meg per 100 ft rg6 is 6.09 if you left any coils of coax in the basement get rid of them and make sure all the splitters say 870 or 1000 meg on them you can buy snap and seal connecters from graybar or ask a cable guy for some most will give ya a hand full and the splitter i386 is talking about thats 7 7 3.5 is a direct coupler the 3.5 would go to the next splitter in line or the longest run mostly used for modem line there that will be the longest sentance ever see what happens when you spend 23 years in cable

LMAO !

I got 10 years plus , myself .

Another fly in the ointment is that Motorola dual tuner DVR/HD STB's have an internal 2 way splitter , further dropping the signal to each tuner module an additional 3.5 dbmv , and , the SNR by the same .

You can access the diagnostics of Motorola STB's by hitting the power button , then , the ok or select button on the remote .
Use the arrow buttons to scroll to option 4 (option 3 on non HD STB's ..) .
Here you will see several critical pieces of information .
SNR should read 32Db or higher , 34 + is better .
Correctable and uncorrectable error rates should be all 0's .
Signal should say digital , and it should tell you the modulation type (64 or 256 QAM ) .
If the signal type says analog , power the STB up and change the channel to a digital channel .

I think that other STB is a turkey , and , wil need to be swapped out .
Hard to say exactly , without being there in person , though .
 
Top