Can not get alignment tool to go into coupler

silvert

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
120
This boat is being very stubborn. Some history, I just bought ot this winter. It is a 99 rinker 232 with a 5.7 and bravo 3. Bought it with a cracked engine. Took it apart, found a worn gimble ring, found soft wood in the transom, found a cracked manifold...etc.. Well all that has been fixed.
Got the new engine in, original coupler. Trying to fit the alignment tool in and having no success. It's not an issue of it being way out of alignment either. The tool measures 1.08". I can knock a socket in that measures 1.00 on the nose. It's very tight. I can not get a socket that measures 1.04" in. The maker of the tool says tool is supposed to be 1.10" so the tool is right. Is the coupler splines worn? I would think worn splines would get bigger, not smaller.
Any ideas?

The name of the boat is going to be "Now what?" Nothing has gone to plan!! Lol
 

Alumarine

Captain
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
3,740
I thought it was supposed to be 1.010" which is what mine measures.
 

flipbro

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 8, 2013
Messages
830
Absolutely rite Marc on the 1.010 I had a buddy who has a lathe make me one and he made it 1.10 and I tried it and relized pretty quick it was not write.
 

silvert

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
120
Meant 1.01.
Anyways, I found a bur on one of the splines. Hit with a file and all is good
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Make sure of a few things before trying to use an alignment tool. Especially with the work you have done. Ensure the transom is flat and even, 2-1/8" +/- 1/8" thick. Make sure you have the right mounting hardware under the engine rear mounts. Old style mount needs a double wound washer, new style does not.

Put the tool into the bearing and move the bearing around in its carrier to ensure it will 'gimbal'. Align the engine by eye to get it close. Use a torch (flashlight) to see the coupler through the bearing. When you move the engine, make sure you move the side mount nuts the same each side, and that you did start with the engine even.

Push the tool in until it's in or nearly in the coupler, then give the tool a few LIGHT taps with a hammer sideways to align the bearing. Now the tool should slide in a bit more easily. Once in, give it a few LIGHT taps sideways in all four directions (top, bottom and both sides). This centres the bearing and stops it forcing the tool away from the coupler. Pull the tool out and give it a bit of grease. Slide it back in and pull it out again, read the grease marks. Witness marks on the top of the tool means the engine needs to go DOWN. Move the side mounts nuts the same on each side. Witness marks on the bottom means the engine needs to go UP....

Chris........
 
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silvert

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
120
thanks for the tips. after 20 trips in and out of the boat I was able to get the witness marks even all the way around.
 

silvert

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
120
Quick question. On the rear mount, it did not have a double wound washer. Is there anything that goes inbetween the transom plate and the bell housing then? I know it gets that fiber washer. When did they change the design?
 
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achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Nothing between the mount and the transom plate, if you have the new style mount. Not sure when the mount changed. FT may have a better idea.
 

silvert

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
120
Well I looked at all my parts and I do not have any double wound washers. I assume there were none.
 
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