Carolina Skiff 19 V Series Redo

Joined
Jun 6, 2009
Messages
7
I am going to post this across a couple of different forums in an effort to capture as much Forum Expertise as possible. My Carolina Skiff is going through what will probably be it’s last remodel. The T Top and original console are gone, the front and rear decks temporarily removed until, and a new/old stock console that I have had in the shop for a few years ready to be installed. I have pulled all wiring, and have new motor controls (Honda) ready to install. The boat is an early Carolina Skiff, 19 foot V Series. The skiff is pushed around by a Honda 50HP, which usually gets me up to 25 – 27 MPH, plenty of speed for where we fish. This will be a great little boat to pass on when I finish it to my son.

My knowledge level = Solid, I know my way around wiring and the right equipment needed to do the job. My son and I have removed the front and rear decks, and the old console. What I have left is a hull that is in reasonably solid shape, with a couple of scrapes on the bottom. The hull itself is filthy from sitting in the elements for a couple for a couple of years. Typically a good power wash after bleaching works to clean it up. There are multiple screw holes in the hull from the attachment of seats, console, battery trays and so on.

So my initial questions and thirst for knowledge starts here.

Question: Recommended Paint Brand and should I use 3M Marine Sealant or is there a better way to patch and fill screw holes? Some of these are up to ¼” threaded screw holes. There are also small #8 screw holes, transducer and speed indicator on the back that will need to be filled before I remount the new transducer and speed sensor. I would like to seal the holes, and paint the inside of the hull with a durable – multi coat - marine paint made for this. I plan on masking and painting up to the rubber bumper. If the bumper readily come off, I’ll pull before paint.

Question: Best prep before paint? Bleach, Rinse, Pressure Spray, Ammonia, Rinse and dry and then paint?

Question: Is there any chance that the hull area between the bottom and the floor/deck could have water intrusion? The reason that I ask is that when I pulled a couple of screws that filled old transducer holes, I thought that I saw water seepage. These were mounted to the left and right of the sump in the back. Does anyone know if it’s possible/wise to install small deck plates to inspect?

Question: Best exterior cleaner, polish, and finish wax. I have the right auto detail buffers to work the outside, I am just curious on best compounds that should be used.

Question: The ten gallon tank originally was installed below the console. I had two batteries up front under the deck for trolling, and one battery under the back deck for motor and power. I would like to run with two or three batteries and the fuel tank permanently installed in the back, left and right, under the deck. Pros/cons? I’ll figure out how to pull wire back to the front for the trolling motor.

Question: The front deck has a small area that seems to have delaminated, (like an air bubble). Area is still solid, so is there a good way to inject this with epoxy/glue and weight it down until it sets?

Thank you in advance for sharing your thoughts. Nice little boat, safe and it’ll be perfect when finished for my son with your help.

Pictures attached are before and now stripped.
 

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zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,433
Hey Atlanta, Nice little rig u have there! Let me try to help with some of ur questions.

Paint: Paint is just a matter of money and available equipment, so its how much u want to spend. You have a few good choices.

Cheap but effective: An Alkyd Enamel like Rustoleum or Tractor paint costs the least, but the results can be fine..they can be sprayed or brushed/rolled..and a hardener can be added if desired.

Higher Budget: An automotive Acrylic Urethane over an epoxy primer can give stellar results regarding appearance and durability...Use single stage, avoid base clear one a boat....these are spray only.

Higher Budget: marine paints like Enemels, Acrylics, and Linear Polys....Brands like Awlgrip/Awlcraft, Interlux, Pettit., ect These are all fairly durable and can be sprayed or brushed/rolled. Linear Polys are the most dificult to apply, but the durability is unsurpassed.

All of the above are for above the water line only if the boat is moored, if trailered only, then you can do the bottom too.

They all have tech sheets which gives guidance on suitable primers, prep work, and recoat windows, ect....following the tech sheets is prudent.
 

zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,433
Water intrusion:

Actually, I think the Calolina Skiffs may be foam cored like the Whalers...and they tend to get waterlogged when compromised...Im not exactly sure of the construction but I believe McGee Crafts were, so were Boston Whalers...If it is waterlogged, removing the core and relining it is a daunting task...

You can cut out a few squares of the deck, transon, or sides, inspect the contruction method, and patch it
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,930
Yup Carolina Skiffs ARE a tub construction and generally Totally foam filled. Take some pics of the BUBBLE and we can advise you better.
 
Joined
Jun 6, 2009
Messages
7
Great information, thanks Woodonglass and zool. I'll be down at the shop tomorrow to do some cleaning. Better pictures on the way.

I spoke to a CS dealer near Waycross, where the boat was built. He has been selling them for 30 years. He mentioned adding a couple of small deck plates too, to get an idea of what is happening below.

I don't see myself re-coring it, but I'll worry about that when I see below.

I'll spend some time on the tech sheets, I shoot HVLP so spraying (while far from a pro) isn't too scary. Finding a marine paint that is high quality but forgiving will be the key. It's all about the prep, right?

I've got to redo the trailer so I'll probably lift it off and support it on 4x6 timbers on cement blocks. Have a tractor with forks comes in very handy. I love the idea of flipping it but at 1200# dry with no motor, that may be on the outer bounds of my equipment. I can still safely support and get to the bottom for the fiberglass repair.

My son and I have set a 45 day clock, which is now ticking. Thank you for the advice, and the future answers to my questions.
 
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