Re: Case of the Drips!
I'm using a PDF manual i got online. It's pretty comprehensive but pictures are bad. I'm all for going with what an official current shop manual calls for.
To be clear. The is a square bowl carb type C. My serial number is 0B396723. A 1989 60HP
carlholme: I want to confirm how I measure is the float is correct.
--Turn the bowl upside down. With the needle in I measure from the bowl gasket surface(the mid point to the the highest(lowest when bowl upside down) part of the float. The float is not cracked, the pin appears to be perfect..sharp point, no wear, moves freely. The float respondes lightly when dropped on the height lever thing..its not heavy and isn't holding fuel. Fuel lines are not leaking fuel they are tie wrapped very snug. Fuel diaphram not leaking, new kit put on that too. Water pump peeing hard.
So if I go to 10mm the bowl will be holding more fuel before the float stops?? Right now I'm 17.5mm. Still getting fuel pooling at from of carb entrance.
Both upper and lower carb are set identical and pass the blow test. I have to really blow to get air through but I chalk that up to passages being so tiny. I blew carb cleaner and lightly compressed air through each hole repeatedly.
NOTE: I replaced the #1 piston(among other mechanicals, not electronics) because it detonated a couple years ago witha pop and powered down..I made back in on two pistons. There was an aluminum wafer over spark plug hole #1. Upon dissassembly i noticed #1 piston and Cyl 1 were bone dry, top carb that feeds #1 was bone dry and the fuel pump was bone dry with a hardened diaphram. Compression before rebuild was 60, 85, 85. After P1 replacement and new rings on 2(3 rings) and 3(3 rings) my compression is 130,137,139. I tested with elec start whereas it was a pull start before teardown.
Anyway, yesterday Piston 1 powered down- no pop, and I got home on two cylinders( it acutally ran great..very slow but great).
I immediately took plugs out and P1 had the same aluminum wafer covering the spark plug hole. I removed the wafer, peeked in as well as I could the crown of the piston looked okay, nothing is stuck and Compression readings didnt change.
From what I read on the forums I'm best served to have Cyl 1 timed at -2 from spec and run rich. I run 25:1, good new gas directly during break in, auto blend removed. I opened a thread on my stator, trigger and coil resistance test and was recommended to test with a DVA adapter. I dont have one and hate to buy one. Since I prob won't time it, unless it's easy. I'll probably just pay the 1 hour labor (quoted for link/synch, timing and carb adjust) and have them time this thing for me and make sure my electronic are up to snuff. My guess is I have original wires but before I plunk $80 into new wired I'd like to know if I stand a chance of this thing running like it used to.
I really need help in identifying the root cause of this repeated failure. Please, any guidance is appreciated.