There are plenty of other Bass Guys here also that could answer this question though.<br /><br />A crankbait rod is almost as far from a "Good" worm rod as you are going to get. They are a slower taper rod and they are normally a fiberglass composit rather than a graphite. They are about 7' in length also. The reason for this is that you will not lose so many fish because you will not put as much preasure on the fish. Crankbait hooked fish are many times not hooked well, and there is the wieght of the bait that lets them shake it lose easier. You really dont need the sensitivity of graphite and your hook set dosent need to be as hard as they normally hook themselves. I normally just pull back and start reeling. Use mono line also, it acts like a shock absorber and dont horse the bas anymore than you have to. I just broke one of these rules recently in that I bought a graphite rod to use for cranking, but it is a very limber slow taper rod and it works great, I got it at WalMart. Its a cherrywood edition, 7' Meadium and was only $18.97. It works great.<br /><br />There, hope this helps.
<br /><br />Drop-shot rods, finesse rods, spinnerbait rods, MY rods, rodbolt rods, (ya I made up the last two)anybody know of any good articles out there that define all these?<br /><br />
Lubedude I am gonna shoot couple of holes in your thoughts,mind you I am just an average fisherman, and this is JMHO. First off any rod I don't care what your using it for should have as much sensitivity as possible. Graphite makes for a wonderful cranking rod if you ask me. My favorite cranking rod is a 6'6" graphite. I set the hook like a mad man weather its crank baits or jigs or whatever, cross their eyes or rip their lips off,whatever comes first. Maybe thats why your losing a few fish.Originally posted by LubeDude:<br /> Sometimes, Im not only "LubeDude", but "BassDude", also.
<br />I do agree that mono makes for a decent line when cranking. But I am stuck on braid for everything anymore. Works for me. <br /><br />Bottom line is this, You can catch fish on any damn rod out there if your in the right place and have the right presentation. People think just because they buy a rod that say it is a crankbait rig that it is all they need to catch fish with crankbaits<br /><br />I would say the only rod that I Personaly need to make sure is suited to my needs when bassin is a worm rod. It needs to be stiff and high quality graphite. To get those instant hook sets when the stuff hits the fan,. Peace <br /><br />Tightlines Flathead
Well, I dont have a problem with that, Fishing has always been a "Different strokes for different folks" Kind of a deal. I was just giving the recommended procedure guidelines.<br /><br />Also, I dont lose many fish, no more than anyone else while cranking. Also, like I said, Im using a Graphite rod for cranking also, however, even though I like some of the braids, I dont like it for cranking. I use the braids for spinnerbaiting, jigging, and my flipping stick. Sure is a bit*h to break off 35# Braid when you get hung in the brush though . You wouldnt want to chuck cranks with your 7'6" heavy action ment for flippin heavy cover. Im using a graphite st. Croix avid and love it! Its a real whip when using cranks or soft plastic jerkbaits. Fiberglass is more forgiving and breaks down as time goes one. Just find a rod with a long taper and is soft and you should be alright.
[/QB][/quote]<br /><br /><br />Hey LD I have found that a good quality pair of electricians nippers work great for the braids.
. look at the crankbait series of rods from loomis croix or any other manu lamiglass fiberglass rods are as soft as they come. Sure braid is nice due to the small diameter, thus letting the bait get down faster and deeper for the most part but its not forgiving. i was so excited about getting my new shimano symetre reel that our mess might have gotten crossed.
