Champion Motors Comany

[Dennisanoka]

My son was mowing a customers lawn mentioned the high cost of gas that our 90hp Rude consumes and she said that she had a small engine that never gets used. So he brought it home. It is a 1941 Challenger, on the manual it says Champion Model S1G-D1G. Our guess that it's been 10-20 years since it has run. The internet suggests it was made by Scott Atwater.

A couple questions, if it could be made to work, would you want to, based on the age? Are there going to be any parts available if one failed? Or is this one of those items that you clean up, get it to run if you can then put it on display? BTW she said it it will work to make her an offer. What is something like this worth? Any light you can shed will be appreciated.

Thank you,

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: Champion Motors Comany

Champion outboards are very reliable and solid, often under appreciated. Not highly valued by collectors however. Check it for compression and spark. It probably has both, if no spark bet you can get it sparking by cleaning the points. I think that is a single cylinder model, so it probably makes 3 to 4.5 hp...as did the later Champions. Pre-WWII models like that one were made by Scott Atwater. After the war, Champion built its own motors in its own plant. Someone on the Ask A Member board at www.aomci.org can probably tell you if parts are available...hardest to find might be the impeller for the water pump, some were made of rubber and some of metal. Even if you don't particularly like it, might be worth a few bucks and then swap it and a few dollars for another old motor you like, or something else, at a regional AOMCI swap meet. I'd take it home just to have the fun of getting it running again.

 

[Dennisanoka]

Re: Champion Motors Comany

Thank you for the additional info. It's being disassembled and cleaned now. We'll give it a try in a day or so.

 

[Dennisanoka]

Re: Champion Motors Comany

The manual says touse 1/2 pint sae 30w per gallon. That's 16:1 can I go leaner than that using todays outboard motor oil?

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Champion Motors Comany

Stick with the 16:1, but use modern TCW-3 outboard oil. Oil's cheap. Outboards aren't.

 

[Dennisanoka]

Re: Champion Motors Comany

Please confirm if we need to pull the flywheel to get at the points.

 

[Dennisanoka]

Re: Champion Motors Comany

The plug is a Champion H-9 COM. Any suggestions for a new one?

 

[steelespike]

Re: Champion Motors Comany

If it doesn't have a inspection plate you will need to remove the flywheel.
I believe your plug is a H10-C (a little hotter) or H8-C a little colder.
Doesn't seem to be a H9-C. I think I would start with the H8-C unless you plan to Troll a lot.

 

[Dennisanoka]

Re: Champion Motors Comany

I was just going by what was in it. The plug looks as old as the motor. I'll look for the one you suggested. I saw another post on removing the fly wheel sounded like a special puller was needed on a motor of this vintage.

 

[steelespike]

Re: Champion Motors Comany

Most likely there are 3 threaded holes in the top of the flywheel Get a damper puller at Harbor freight or other tool source.It is self expanatory.
Leave the flywheel nut on loose to protect the threads.Tighten the center puller bolt good and tight if it doesn't pop whack the bolt once or twice with a hammer retighten and repeat if necessary.
Just checked my old plug chart it says H10 (present number H10C) at .025.
Points set at .015.

 

[Dennisanoka]

Re: Champion Motors Comany

Thank you for the direction. We have had it running after going through everything first but I'd still like to clean and instect the points. We haven't yet figured out the best method for getting it started though on any kind of regular basis. But once it does start up it's pretty impressive for an engine this size and age.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: Champion Motors Comany

Those old 1 lung outboards are pretty simple...some don't even have a choke or cover for the butterfly opening on the carb. Here's how I start them: open tank vent and fuel line shut-off, set the spark advance lever to start (roughly 5:30 if you view the flywheel as a clock face), check the float pin...should be at the top, it will rise as the gas enters the carb bowl, bob the pin up and down until a little gas dribbles from the top of the float bowl, engage the choke if there is one or just put a thumb over the butterfly throat, pull the cord a couple of times...it should sputter and turn over on 2nd or 3rd or 4th pull. Disengage the choke, pull the cord, get it running and maybe adjust the high-speed needle a little. Some of the older outboards require that you readjust the high speed needle a bit when you throttle from slow to fast and from fast to slow. With no FNR, make sure you're pointed to open water in the boat when you're starting it up...don't want to bash the dock.