Changed Bellows and Gimbal bearing, cannot get the outdrive back on.

[kidmet]

I changed the bellows, u joints, and got the gimbal bearing in. I can get the outdrive in about 75% of the way, then it gets stuck. A few questions. My shaft (forgive my auto talk, hoping you guys know what I mean) had some rust. When trying to "mate" my gimbal bearing and the shaft, it isn't exactly smooth to get it all the way on (outside of the bellows to test). Is this normal? Should it just slip in? Maybe I need to get more rust and gunk off the shaft? Also, I thought my alignment was really good (alignment tool slide right in, easily), but maybe it's not? Any words of advice would help. I first struggled only getting the shaft in about 35%, but figured out I had messed up the gimbal bearing. So I got another one and it got in much further. Another question is the "inside" of the bearing does shift a bit (as if the shaft could go in from an angle and the bearing will move and accommodate it. Curious if that is bad. Any tips, advice, resources, ect would be awesome. I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure this out. Thanks.

 

[bruceb58]

Put some grease on your alignment tool and make sure it pulls out with the grease marks equal on both top and bottom.

You have the drive in neutral right? Please don't listen to anyone who says to put the drive in forward and to turn the prop. If you do it that way, you can bend the shift rod.

When the drive is going on, use a screwdriver to rotate the u-joints until the splines engage with the coupler.

 

[MRS]

This works for me slides right on if I have 4x6 blocks under the trailer tires puts it at the right angle to let it slip in. If I do not it was a real pain to slide in like I said works for me and yes put in neutral.

 

[kidmet]

This works for me slides right on if I have 4x6 blocks under the trailer tires puts it at the right angle to let it slip in. If I do not it was a real pain to slide in like I said works for me and yes put in neutral.

Yes, it's in neutral, and i can get it to go like 75% in. I think it's getting held up at the gimbal bearing. I guess my question is should the shaft slide into the gimbal bearing VERY easily? Mine seems to get hung up.

 

[Sparkinator]

Try having someone turn the crank (breaker bar/socket on the crank shaft pulley) , while you push the drive on. I've had to do it this way in the past. Once the splines lined up, it seemed like the drive just hopped on.

Also, make sure you are applying plenty of pressure on the bottom part of the drive. This goes with what MRS stated about getting the right angle.

 

[bruceb58]

Should go in very easily. Like spark, MRS and I said before, you need to either turn the u-joints with a screw driver or have some on turn the engine.

 

[kidmet]

I appreciate the advice, but not sure you guys are understanding or answering my questions. The splines are lined up. When I push the outboard in it goes in almost all the way. It's about 1 inch (about the thickness of the gimbal bearing) short. The u - joints are already in the housing so I know it's in the splines (along with seeing the grease on the splines of the shift being pushed back). So i know it's in. My thought is the shaft isn't getting all the way into the gimbal bearing. Should it slide in easily as mine seems to get caught. Also if anyone could answer the few questions in the first post I'll know if my gimbal bearing is messed up from being pulled agaun.

 

[kidmet]

I hope that last post didn't come off rude. Just hoping to get the problem stated correctly.

 

[bruceb58]

duplicate post

 

[bruceb58]

If you have the splines engaged the gimbal bearing will have rocked into a good position by that point.

There are 2 O-rings on the drive shaft. What have you done with those? They need to be only lightly oiled. If they are covered with grease,that may be your issue.

You have a picture of the shaft?

 

[Sparkinator]

One more thing. If you are within an inch, can you get the nuts started on the bolts? Once I get to that point, I make sure nothing is getting caught, and then start tightening down the nuts in a cross pattern and rocking the drive to allow it to slip into position.

And your not being rude. No offense taken. I'm sure you're just frustrated.

 

[Earp]

I changed the bellows, u joints, and got the gimbal bearing in. I can get the outdrive in about 75% of the way, then it gets stuck. A few questions. My shaft (forgive my auto talk, hoping you guys know what I mean) had some rust. When trying to "mate" my gimbal bearing and the shaft, it isn't exactly smooth to get it all the way on (outside of the bellows to test). Is this normal? Should it just slip in? Maybe I need to get more rust and gunk off the shaft? Also, I thought my alignment was really good (alignment tool slide right in, easily), but maybe it's not? Any words of advice would help. I first struggled only getting the shaft in about 35%, but figured out I had messed up the gimbal bearing. So I got another one and it got in much further. Another question is the "inside" of the bearing does shift a bit (as if the shaft could go in from an angle and the bearing will move and accommodate it. Curious if that is bad. Any tips, advice, resources, ect would be awesome. I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure this out. Thanks.

Try a small ratchet strap, just make sure the splines are 100% lined up! it won't take much to pull it in. Might be all the grease in the coupler creating some hydraulic force preventing it from going in. Make sure the trailer is not moving if you keep trying to push it in, you won't notice how much you can push the whole boat hook it to your truck and pull the e-brake. If the boat is moving you will never push it in.

 

[kidmet]

One more thing. If you are within an inch, can you get the nuts started on the bolts? Once I get to that point, I make sure nothing is getting caught, and then start tightening down the nuts in a cross pattern and rocking the drive to allow it to slip into position.

And your not being rude. No offense taken. I'm sure you're just frustrated.

Unfortunately the bolts aren't exposed yet. I am going to get a pic of the shaft for you all. These are some good suggestions. My plan of action today after work is as follows:

1) Double check alignment
2) Clean shaft and as much of the splines of grease
3) Lightly grease the O rings
4) jack up the trailer to make sure I can get the correct angle
5) make sure I am pushing on the bottom and the top
6) get the trailer hooked to the truck and use the e-brake.

Am I missing anything?

 

[MRS]

When I put the blocks under the tires I do have truck hooked up and I do grease the coupler outside and oil the O-rings.
When I first got the boat had to change the transom shift cable had only pulled merc outdrives the first thru third time I pull the omc it took me hours to get back on stepped back and looked at the angle when I got that right it slips right in honest you never should have to force it once you figure out your right angle for your set up it will just slide right in.

 

[kidmet]

Sadly I gave up and brought it to my boat guy. Said he'd change the gimbal and put the outdrive back on for $75. When I heard that I rushed home, got the boat, and dropped it off. No time to deal with this anymore! lol. I know I'm lazy, but I've already invested 10 hours into this project. I also have a feeling I'll have to run new gas line and do some more work before I get her on the water. I'm ready to move on from my gimbal bearing experience.

 

[legend 550]

Had the same issue with my drive. Figured out it was just the o rings binding a little as they entered the gimbal bearing. wrapped a ratchet strap around the drive and 1 small tug and it slid right in.

 

[Lou C]

One thing to check....take a flashlight and make sure there isn't old grease caked up inside the coupler spline area where the driveshaft goes. If it goes on splines seem to have engaged the coupler, but it won't go all the way, it could be that. You are supposed to put grease on the driveshaft splines, and motor oil on those o-rings not grease. I'd even roll the o-rings off and make sure there is no grease in the groove in the driveshaft that the o rings fit into.
the comment about getting it at the right angle is right on. I have at times used a floor jack under the wood stand I built and used till last year when I bought a nice adjustable one, to lift the stand slightly and it will go right on. You can also use the trailer jack to change the angle of the pivot housing which can also help.

 

[tpenfield]

Sorry for the late arrival, but just to share my experiences with something similar. . . In my less experienced days after replacing the gimbal bearing, I too could not get the outdrive back on. It stopped had maybe 3/4" short. I tried all sorts of things to no avail.

It turned out that I had the gimbal bearing in wrong and it did not seat properly and therefore would not let the drive shaft go in all the way. I finally removed the gimbal bearing, flipped it around and re-installed it, making a world of difference.

It seems that the housing of the gimbal bearings are slightly tapered in order to fit into the transom assembly ??? :noidea:

 

[jerryjerry05]

The shaft with the 2 o-rings.
The grease builds up UNDER the o-ring.
As you push it in the grease lifts the o-ring up and you have a lock.
Next time take the o-rings off and clean the groove and reinstall and lightly grease them.

 

[Bulbash]

I had the same issue. It was fixed by cleaning old gunk under the O-rings....