Changing Water Pump

[joey nathan]

1975 70HP Evinrude 3-Cylinder/3 Carburettor

Can anyone give me a heads up on this procedure? Anything special I'll need other than the kit which includes the impeller and gaskets?

Good news is the engine started right up today - been sitting for 5 years, runs like a top! Need new throttle cable too but I have that in hand and just need to do it.

I had the muffs on it and nothing from the "tell-tale" so I'm going after the pump. Is it as simple as undoing the four cap screws and dropping the lower unit down to get at the pump?

Thanks in advance...

 

[wilde1j]

Re: Changing Water Pump

There's usually a bolt under the torque trim plate and the shift linkage needs to be disconnected (usually under the lowest carb). I would do a complete pump, especially if the motor sees saltwater. BRP kits used to have complete instructions packed with their complete water pump kits, as there a a lot of little details that need to be taken care of, but it's not a hard job, unless the last one wasn't done right.

 

[jtexas]

Re: Changing Water Pump

1. disconnect shift linkage under the bottom carb. it's a 7/16 hex head screw you can access from the port side with a socket wrench, might need a short extension. I find it's a lot easier if you disconnect the shift cable at the powerhead first.
2. remove the trim tab (scribe a mark across the edge so you can get it back like it was).
3. remove the retaining bolt from the trim tab cavity.
4. remove the other retaining bolt from the bottom side of the antiventilation plate.
5. remove the four retaining bolts from the perimeter, just above the antiventilation plate.

pull the lower unit off.

the shift rod height is adjusted by screwing it in or out, so don't twist it or else it won't fit when you put it back.

if the old impeller is stuck, grip the drive shaft with a wooden clamp or *well-padded* vise-grips -- don't use any kind of tool on the drive shaft splines -- a little twist should free it up.

turn the drive shaft *clockwise* with your hand while forcing the housing down over the new impeller.

on reassembly:
1. put molly lube on the drive shaft splines.
2. the rubber o-ring just below the drive shaft splines -- you need that.
3. put omc gasket sealant (or some kind of anti-sieze) on all the fasteners -- or else corrosion will set in & it'll be a ***** next time.
4. use 3m #847 or permatex #2 on the joint between midsection & lower unit. The 847 is way less messy and easier to remove next time around

 

[gentryrf]

Re: Changing Water Pump

I have a 1988 75 Hp Evinrude Sport. I've removed all seven bolts and disconnected shift rod. Read in another post about pulling spark plugs and turning flywheel to help spline come out. Done all of that and lower unit will not drop but about 1/4". Anymore suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks