Re: charging circuit 15HP
detail;<br /><br />Electric Start & Charging Systems: There are a at least a couple different charging systems for the later engines. With the later electric start there was also a different stator plate, which included an alternator & a charging system. You can convert a manual start to the electric start if you get all the components, which would include a starter, by-pass cover, (the starter mounting bracket), flywheel, charge plate & rectifier. Sometimes a person wants the motor to charge a auxiliary battery without the use of a electric starter. Add on charge units (no starter) are listed for the 1977 thru 1982 list for $182.00. The motors OMC part #174037 is designed to fit from 1983 to 1988, & lists for approx $68.00 . However, the 1989 through 1992 engines require OMC part # 175251 which lists for approx $62.00 . The main benefit to this is that the alternator will keep the battery charged if you use it for a lot of trolling & are using a depth-finder, radio, & or electric downriggers<br /><br /> <br /><br />The start button is tucked away on the right hand side of the front handle plate of the motor. The electric starter mounts on the left side of the power head behind the center of the flywheel.<br /><br /> <br /><br />Converting over to a full electric start/charge system: This can be done, but may not be cost effective if you price new parts depending on the year of your motor. The simplest would be to buy a complete used set of parts. Many times this can not be done, or you can not find the used parts off the same family of years in relationship to the ignition systems. As you can see from the preceding info that the ignition & therefore also the charge units are vastly different. Starters & the by-pass cover are the same. However when it comes to flywheels, new ones are expensive & trying to find the right used one may take some time. There are 2 main differences in the electric start flywheel. The manual start version has only the larger cast in aluminum toothed lower gear, while the electric start in addition to the manual start cast in gear, has a ring gear for the electric starter to engage into. <br /><br /> <br /><br />The actual flywheel is also slightly smaller by about 1/4" overall diameter. This smaller size is to allow clearance for the starter shaft nut. You can lathe turn the outside diameter & re-cut the emergency starter rope groove. The original electric start flywheel is made differently & uses the starter ring gear as the lower edge of the emergency rope groove.<br /><br /> <br /><br />OMC does not sell just the ring gear as a separate item. I suspect it is not made by OMC but another supplier, since there are numbers & a trademark stamped on the underside of this gear. The numbers appear to be, j E:T.N 4 511208 ( M ). The M is inside a parallelogram. The inside diameter of this gear is 7.0". Also the pre-1977 flywheels have a smaller inside stator diameter.<br /><br />One thing you can do, is that you will have your old flywheel but you can only find a different ignition version than is needed, is to take it anyway, remove the ring gear. Have a machine shop, or if you posses a metal lathe, make a tapered shaft to fit the flywheel, or use an crankshaft & mount your old flywheel on it, then turn your flywheel down to the EXACT size of the one that had the gear on it. Heat the gear with a propane torch. This will expand it just enough (just hot enough that you need a rag to hold onto it), Install it quickly by dropping the heated gear over the flywheel's newly machined surface. You might have to tap it into place before the heat transfers to the aluminum flywheel & locks it there. This is called shrinking the gear in place, as the gear expands slightly when heated.<br /><br /> <br /><br />You can run the electric starter on the motor without the charging system. It just will not recharge the battery.<br /><br /> <br /><br />If you do find the right charging system, you will also need to be sure to get & install a rectifier in the charging system.
