Cheaper to Keep 'er (R/R powerhead)

[captquest]

Well after all said and done, I decided to get a new powerhead from Power Exchange right here in my home town. This should solve all known issues with this thing once and for all (I hope). In fact it should be like having a brand new Force ...imagine that! I'm giving the lower unit a going over as well. I'm having a hard time getting the powerhead loose. Pretty sure I got all the bolts, but it don't wanna move. Maybe I need a hoist? Any input here would be great guys.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Cheaper to Keep'er

Re: Cheaper to Keep'er

I could not tell from the photo but if that is a Mercury midleg, it will be a bit easier but if it is a Force-----You need to disconnect everything and remove the lower shroud. The block must be bare both for weight (bare block without flywheel weighs about 100-120)and to allow the lower shroud to be lifted off. The shift linkage must be disconnected at the two nuts that hold the rod to the pivot. There are six 9/16 nuts on the sides and back of the midleg Be sure you get the washers off too) and six more 9/16 head bolts (3 on each side) on the front of the match plate. Once you remove all of them, then the fun begins. You rapidly learn how to cuss and swear eloquently.

See: the six studs in the back of the midleg like to corrode in and are very difficult to pull. You need to get several wedges in between the pry points and then a couple of tire irons or crowbars in the front of the match plate. Once the gasket or silicone pops, it gets a bit easier but you will still need to keep prying and inserting spacers between the match plate and midleg until you get at least an inch gap.

Once you lift the block off, if it is a Force midleg, you must twist the block so the exhaust tube clears the water tube bracket.

NEVER MIND! Went back and blew up the photo--it's a Merc midleg.

Mind you, I only disassembled one a couple of months ago so my memory is a bit hazy.

Like I said, Merc midleg is a bit easier, but you still need to take it to a bare block and remove the lower shroud--it may hide one stud--to remove it. The Merc match plate has Eight studs holding it to the midleg and it may --I'm not sure --have a couple of 5/16 or 3/8 bolts coming up into it. Part of the steering arm may also be attached to the match plate so it is essential to get in there and look. The block has the six long studs holding it to the match plate and then in the front, it has four more short studs. The block was never changed other than the splines in the crank; all Merc did was to make a match plate to adapt it to their midleg.

 

[captquest]

Re: Cheaper to Keep'er (R/R powerhead)

Re: Cheaper to Keep'er (R/R powerhead)

Thanks Frank, I appreciate your reply. But are you thinking of the right engine? This is a 1998 Merc Force 120HP. It does not look possible to "lift" this bottom cowl up over the block even if it were completly srtipped. The mounting brackets or shock mounts are part of the exhaust plate(s) and extend well over the bottom pan or cowl. I have a really crappy manul for it and it looks like it's trying to tell me to remove the block, then the cowl. Also I only see these 8 studs unerneath (pic).

 

[captquest]

Re: Cheaper to Keep'er (R/R powerhead)

Re: Cheaper to Keep'er (R/R powerhead)

I did a little research right here on Iboats. I found this old post from some one in exacly the same situation as me. I'm goin to try some liquid wrench on it.

here is the post:
have the head off - the lower unit off - the cowl loose -the power head bolts (8/9) nuts off - the 4 motor mount bolts out the wiring harness disconnected - fuel line off - battery cables off - shifter disconnected -and it will not move. I can get the cowl to move around but that is it. What am I missing. A hoist maybe???

Hello again Kev, I just wanted to let you know that I got the Power Head off without a hoist or a hammer. I sprayed it down with A penetrating oil (I do not have the name handy but I wrote about it on another post) that is great stuff. I let it soak and lifted the head off today (with my Sons' help of course). Thanks for your help.Robert

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Cheaper to Keep'er (R/R powerhead)

Re: Cheaper to Keep'er (R/R powerhead)

You just HAD to make me go down to the garage to look! You're right There are only eight studs holding the powerhead match plate to the midleg and internally there are four bolts holding the cowl to the match plate--the cowl can not slide up--powerhead must come off first. But, I don't remember having a lot of trouble removing the one I did--it came of rather well otherwise I would have remembered it.

But the studs probably need a bit of persuasion--if you **** them just a little, or if there is corrosion on them, they will jam.

Before you take home your new block, count the crankshaft splines. The Merc units are different than the older Force ones. So (I know they are a reputable company, but you know Murphy!) if they rebuilt with an older Force crank, it will not fit.

Are they giving you a tremendous deal? You are doing at least half the work and for a bit more time invested, doing the rebuild yourself will cost less than 1000 bucks. That's assuming that the crank and rods are in good condition. Bore four cylinders, buy four oversized pistons, full gasket kit--that's about all that's needed.

 

[captquest]

Re: Cheaper to Keep'er (R/R powerhead)

Re: Cheaper to Keep'er (R/R powerhead)

Thanks Frank, I feel much better now that you have confirmed that. You seem to know what your talking about. I think some serious persuasion is what it will take.
Yes I did get a tremendous deal, the complete rebuilt powerhead for about $1200. The reason I don't want to rebuild myself is because I fear the crank may actually be bent. At this point I will let it sit overnight with some Liquid Wrench soaking in and try again before hunting down a hoist.
BTW, I could just bet that fishing is absolutly great during this down time of mine. Freak'in Murphy.