Chrysler 105hp no spark after distributer...

[Zartav]

Been working on the spark issue on this engine for 3 or 4 days now. I can get good signal from the distributer to put spark out of the coil, but when it goes back into the distributer via the coil wire it never makes it back out. I've adjusted timing several times and am convinced that isn't the issue.

I've cleaned all points. Replaced the spark plug wires and verified the new ones have connectivity.

So where is my spark going? (Also, any aftermarket distributers fit this? fa352???)

 

[Nordin]

If you have spark at coil HT-wire then you have to clean all contact points in the distributer cap well.
The center pin is a carbon pin so be careful when cleaning.
Clean all contact surfaces at the rotor and check and clean both end of the HT-wires to the plugs.
It can be rust at the spring in the end with the rubber boot.
The other end is squeezed in the distributer cap and the copper core should be peeled a bit from the insulation to get good contact.
Check the distributor cap and the rotor for cracks or burn spots.

 

[Redbarron%%]

Being ignorant on this engine I have to fall back on automobile experience and say make sure that the rotor is aimed at the "contact" with the engine at TDC +- the timing. It is possible that the spark is occurring between the terminals and not jumping the gap.

 

[Zartav]

So I figured out that the distributor has those other 4 knock out spots, and they are actually lined up with the firing order. So I drilled them out, and moved my plug wires in their new locations. I verified timing with a test light with distributer marker at TDC and verified signal via signal wire on outside....

Thought it'd run, but it still doesn't. I'm getting some very vague pops now and then when I hit it with since starter fluid, but nothing near starting it....

So question....
Since I've got a 70s era Dodge ignition and coil in here, should I switch from NGK-HUD plugs, to something more conventional? Could weak spark be my issue because of plugs?

 

[Zartav]

Pictured are the additional knockout locations.

 

[Zartav]

I just verified, all plugs getting spark... Not sure if it's a strong spark, but it's getting it... I can't fathom why it won't run at least a little bit right now. It's getting fuel, spark, and air.

 

[Zartav]

I'm running 1972 Dodge v8 coil, ballast resistor, and igniter. Copper core plug wires and NGK-HUD plugs.

Compression numbers are 124, 130, 130, 127
It is getting fuel, though I don't know if its too much or too little. It draws suction into carbs, and I feel 'exhaust' out the tail, so no blockages.

Not sure if this info helps any... I hope.

Halp.....

 

[Nordin]

I do not know what kind of plugs NGK-HUD are, but if you have a regular battery ignition system with points then you should use regular plugs with bend electrode. Not the surface gap plugs such as NGK BUX or equal.
The surface gap plugs are for CD ignition systems and they need higher ignition voltage to create spark at the plug.

As you mention you now get spark at the plugs but it would not fire.
Is the timing right?

#1 Set the top piston at TDC
#2 Check that the "0" mark at flywheel lines up with the "0" mark at timing plate. If not, the flywheel key might be shared.
#3 With top piston at TDC the curved line at the distributer pully should line up with the flywheel rim.
#4 At WOT the top plug should spark at 30dgr BTDC.

There is a sticky at top of this forum where FrankA explain how to set the timing at these 3-4 cylinder distributor engines.
There is also a video at youtube where he explain it.

 

[Zartav]

I do not know what kind of plugs NGK-HUD are, but if you have a regular battery ignition system with points then you should use regular plugs with bend electrode. Not the surface gap plugs such as NGK BUX or equal.

Sorry they are NGK-BUH. They are surface gap.
I'll try some other plugs to see if I get any luck...
Timing is all set to TDC. I haven't checked advance on throttle open yet, but I will make sure it's set once I can get it to fire..

I'll get some hotter plugs just in case.

 

[Zartav]

Tried NGK BR8HS plugs. No luck. I'm at a loss..

To be clear, with TDC plug #1 should fire right at TDC correct? If it was, it should run at least some right?

 

[Nordin]

TDC you know that the key is not shared.
WOT it should spark at 30dgr BTDC
If you have Motorola CD box then NGK BUX or BUHW.
If regular battery ignition with points then NGK B8HS, BUT not surface gap style as BUX or BUHW.

 

[Zartav]

I'm running regular battery ignition, but still using the points as signal to a 72 dodge 318 ignition module.

 

[Redbarron%%]

When the #1 is at TDC the rotor should point at the distributor tower for #1 as you go around the distributor the rotor should line up with each cylinder in firing order in turn.
If the rotor is good and the voltage is high enough the plugs should fire and then assuming fuel and compression it should run

 

[Zartav]

Yeah, I checked that, and used a test light on the signal coming out of the distributor. I also pulled the #1 plug and turned the distributor pully by hand to see that it was sparking at TDC.

I've been keeping the battery fully charged. It's a deep cycle brand new.
Compression numbers are above..

I know it's getting fuel, but I can't verify the amount of fuel or air it's getting. I tried starter fluid with no effect.

 

[Nordin]

Maybe I misunderstand you but you say you turn the distributor pully by hand and #1 plug spark at TDC.
The distributor has to be in connection to the flywheel/crank shaft by the belt to verify that the #1 piston is at TDC when the points open.
The points is the trigger of the ignition. In a battery ignition system it opens up the circuit of the prime side of the ignition coil.
With the carbs closed the spark advance is theoretical 0dgr but the engine will not run in that position.
Normally it need some throttle and then the spark advance will be some degrees.
In idle at 7-800 RPM the spark advance is about 6-8 dgr BTDC.
You time these engines at WOT and it should be 30dgr BTDC.
The first 3 actions in my answer in post #8 shows how you set the distributor in sync with the crank shaft.
If the sync is out the engine will not fire and there are two major things that can get it out of sync.
#1 Flywheel key shared
#2 Distributor pully out of adjustment. The curved line at the pully should line up with the flywheel rim when #1 piston is at TDC.