Chrysler 10HP. Searched, don't see answer...

[sts1ss]

This is a late 70's I think Chrysler 10HP, model is 102HB.

I know this is kind of long, but I thought being thorough up front might make the answers easier.

There are a few issues I should probably ask about on the way to where I am going.

First it has a weird miss. I say weird because it will run along OK, then it seems to stutter/miss once then repeats this. SO you get runs for 10 sec, then stutters, then run 10~20 sec etc. I have kind of decided it's probably points/condensor as I believe the fuel system is OK. Any thoughts here are appreciated.

The big issue is over heating. I know this isn't rocket science, but my ignorance doesn't help me any. I am completely qualified/comfortable working on any part of this, but am looking for confirmation, or not, that I am headed in the right direction.

At low RPM it spits more than flows water, but it seems like it flows decent once the RPMs are up. This motor has been in the family since new, I just never paid that close attention to it when I was younger and am not an outboard mechanic so i don't know what "normal" is.

I decided to check the pump impeller/housing, seemed like a reasonable place to start. I haven't had one apart before so I figured I would basically start tearing into it and see what there was to see.

Found the pump housing OK, and externally that all looks good. I think the pump was replaced, new seals etc. a couple of years back. When I got the motor it was over heating and the shop I took it to replaced the head gasket etc. and also the pump I believe.

Obviously the lower unit comes off to get to the pump. In doing so I noticed the prop is VERY hard to rotate. I assumed it was in gear, but it isn't. I can shift it ok, and the drive shaft rotates ok in neutral, but in gear I have a hell of a time rotating the output shaft. I didn't think this was right, and considering I can idle this thing or run it fast in neutral for a long time w/o over heating, I satrted to think the problem is that the motor is working way too hard turning the prop; hard enough that the thing is getting hotter at lower RPMs than it normally would.

So now we are to my real question.

Should it be this hard to rotate? I am a good size guy, 6'3" about 260 and not lacking for strength. It's really hard to turn the output shaft. Thinking this was not right I decided to just tear it down and replace whatever might need replacing. I can not see how to do this. I got the prop/gearbox cover off, but at this point I really need someone to give a little insight, or a set of assembly drawings. I am not opposed to buying a manual if I have to, but was hoping for some help here.

Thanks.

Again, I am very knowledgeable of general mechanical stuff, just not off the cuff knowledgeable on outboards. I repair CNC machines for a living, and have rebuilt various engines of all sizes.

 

[ztim]

Re: Chrysler 10HP. Searched, don't see answer...

I can only suggest you get a manual. Mine is a SELOC for 1962-84 Chrysler which covers all 3.5 to 150hp, 1-4 cylinder 2-stroke models. I too am a fairly good mechanic but my knowledge of outboards are limited. The directions in the repair manual are step by step and the exploded views are most valuable. It also tells of and shows how to use special tools. A few bucks on that will pay for itself. I wouldn't tear into the foot too much without it and the special tools needed. Good luck. I hope someone can help you.
Bob

 

[eurolarva]

Re: Chrysler 10HP. Searched, don't see answer...

First off your motor is from 1974. Unfortunetly parts lists online only go back to 75 and 76 now for chrysler. When you mention it is hard to turn at the prop is this with the lower unit still attached to the motor leg or removed? Even removed there will be some torque from the impeller inside the water pump. With it connected to the motor leg you are also fighting against 120 lbs of torque from the motor. Another factor you may be facing is if the lower unit is in forward or reverse gear and are you turning the prop the correct direction. The best thing is to have the lower unit off and the water pump off then turn the drive shaft clockwise and watch the prop turn. Forcing the drive shaft to turn in the wrong direction will give off more force because the impeller is inserted with the vanes directional for a clockwise spin. If you turned it counterclockwise you will have to remove it and either replace the impeller or get the vanes back in the correct orientation.

The problem you mentioned about it missing could be electrical however it is possible your carb is not set correctly. I would fix the overheat thing first and get the lower unit back on. My guess is you need a new impeller which is only about 12 bucks. Get that fixed first and then work on the misfire. Also what type of spark plugs does that motor have on it?

You need a good service manual. Get a clymer. This is a good manual for people that are not mechanics. Then go to chrysler crew and buy a downloadable service manual and a parts manual. You really should not be taking this apart without a manual.

 

[sts1ss]

Re: Chrysler 10HP. Searched, don't see answer...

Thanks for the replies.

With respect to the prop, it is removed (lower unit) from the motor and I am turning it the proper direction...now. It is possible I didn't the first time. I did so accidentally, and then after trying with some effort and having so much trouble I made sure the thing was in neutral, which it was. I then shifted it into fwd, reverse and was turning the prop the appropriate direction. Even in nuetral this thing is seriously hard to rotate. In neutral it is not turning the impeller right? I mean the impeller is on the drive shaft so neutral gearbox decouples drive/output shafts I would think.

At any rate I will take the advice on the manuals. I was not able to locate downloadable, but it sounds like you are saying I can get them? The "chrysler crew" is a website? I'll look for that and depending on what I see if I do get the other I'll go with the Clymer as you recommend. I read prints and assembly drawings all the time so I am not too concerned about that part of it.