chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

[tjl123]

I have a chrysler 130 hp outboard, I think it is a 1973 but not sure of the year
It has the points in the distributor(on the motor) I also have a electronic distributor(not on the motor)
It is the magna power system
The rotor bug is pitted really bad, i would like to put the electronic distributor on this motor
Is there anyone who could give me a step by step as to how to do this
I do not have a timing light so I would need instructions also how to static time it and sysc the carbs to the timing

thanks in advance to anyone who can help me with this.

 

[Nordin]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

First you have to have a MagnaPower switchbox (do not know if you have it with your points distributer). Bolt up the new distributer and turn the flywheel soo you have #1 cyl in TDC. Use a screwdriver in top hole or for better adjustment a dialindicator. Run a bluewire from terminalstrip to the right termial on distributer. This is the 12V feed from ign.switch to the electronic eay. Look at the electricaldiagram at Maxrules.com for better explanation. Line up the curve at dist.pully with outerrim of flywheel. Then put on the drivbelt not moving the pully and flywheel. Adjust the belt soo a 008 feeler gauge pointing at the midpoint of the belt deflect the belt about 1/2 in when it starts to bend.

To time the maxsparkadvance you need a timinglight for best adjustment. It suppose to be 30dgr BTDC.
You can do it with a voltmeter.Set the throttle to WOT. Turn the flywheel so the timepointer point against the 30 BTDC mark, connect the V-meter red lead at blue terminal and black lead at the other terminal on distributer. Use a range at V-meter were you suppose to measure 12VDC.
Loose locknut at timingtower. If you are near 30dgr BTDC the V-meter shall goes from 12VDC to zero when you push with a finger on dist.belt. If not adjust the timingrod.

To link and sync see the sticker that Frank has written in the top of the page.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system



There is a little leeway with the belt tightness: I use a .010 feelser and set it to depress the belt about 3/16 inch before it bends. HOWEVER: Do NOT be tempted to set the belt too tight. This will cause drag on the distributor and cause problems shifting into and out of gear. Too loose and timing will wander a bit while running as the belt flaps.

Also: be certain to replace the ground wires from the distributor body to the distributor mount and from the coil to the distributor mount (as seen in both photos) The distributor body is insulated from the mount by grease and the grounds are absolutely necessary for proper operation.

 

[tjl123]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

The model number is 1307hb
The serial number is 6174
here are some pictures of the motor maybe you can tell me what I have

 

[tjl123]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

I dont know if I have a switch box ...What does it look like?

 

[tjl123]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

I think it is a magna power cd ignition motorola 2 system

 

[tjl123]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

or it could be a motorola system

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

That is Motorola Magna Power ignition. The CD (Capacitor Discharge) box is the same for points or electronic distributor. In fact, the only difference in the distributor is that there is on the electronic distributor an extra hole drilled in the side for a second power terminal. The electric eye screws directly to the holes for the points.

I forget the exact method of operation, but the points are opposite the electric eye. One signals the gate transistor (inside the CD box) to dump the capacitors into the coil when there is lack of voltage at the signal terminal (internally) The other signals when there is a positive voltage. This, However does not make any difference to the CD unit.

At any rate, your electronic distributor will bolt right onto the engine with no modifications other than a blue power wire from the blue terminal on the engine board to the [power terminal on the distributor (I think it is red.) When the ignition switch is on, Power is fed to the electronic circuits in the CD box and the electric eye inside the distributor. When the shutter blanks the eye, the photocell will not make voltage. When the shutter clears the eye, the light now passes to the photosensitive cell and generates voltage. This voltage goes to the CD box via the white distributor wire.

The red wire to the CD box is a constant 12 volts even when the ignition is off. It charges only the capacitors in the CD box.Thus: When you first connect it or first connect the battery cables after prolonged sitting, you will get a spark at the wire. Do not worry about this.

If your engine was running and is in time, simply set the 0 mark on the flywheel to the long line on the block pointer. The engine is now at TDC. Now set the distributor pulley so the curve matches the flywheel curve and the straight line points directly at the flywheel.

Now retime the engine. This can be done without a timing light or tools. Disconnect and ground all four plug wires. More to come later

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

Had to leave for a couple of minutes.

SO: With the top plug grounded where you can see it, set the throttle to wide open. with the ignition on, turn the flywheel by hand slowly, looking for the top plug to spark. When the top plug sparks, adjust the distributor link until it will spark at the point where the 36 degree mark on the flywheel is four small lines to the left of the large 0 degree mark on the pointer. This is 32 degrees before top dead center. Now, slowly turn the flywheel again until top plug fires and then rock the flywheel slightly. The plug should fire with every rocking. Finally, With the flywheel set to 32 degrees before top dead center depress the distributor belt. the plug should fire each time you depress and release the belt.

 

[tjl123]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

thankyou for all your help , with the serial number and model number can you tell me what year this is

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system



No, I can not because I have placed my charts in a very "SAFE" Place. However, I can tell you that it is earlier than 1975 because after that the engines had electronic distributors.Post a photo of the cover and Nordin can probably get you the exact year.

Speaking of which: Your photos are too small and I could not tell if you had a brown switch with two yellow wires on the distributor. This is the neutral interlock and when you replace the distributor you will need to move the brown switch to the shift linkage or drill the new distributor for the cam. The body can be swapped from the old to the new. It is held by a single large internal clip.

 

[Nordin]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

The year should be 1973 for 1307HB I think. The 130Hp was only made in 1972 and 73 and due to Maxrules yearchart 1307HA is 1972 but they do not show 1307HB and 1973.
I am 100% that 130Hp only was made 1972 and 73 couse I have old factory prospect and 1973 has a 130Hp.


Frank the old (red) electronic eay only had two wires + and signal. The substitut preamp.(black) has three + - and signal.
SOO the old tripps the signal when shutter covers the photodiod and the new tripps it when the shutter goes from cover to open.

 

[tjl123]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

So I am good with running the wire from the blue terminal to the red post and that is all the mods I need to do except for timing like you told me earlier. I have another question to change the plug wires because they are the original , do they just screw out of the cap.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

No. Unscrew the two screws in the top of the distributor cap. Then lift off the top half. The wires and a rubber seal will come out of the bottom half of the cap. Pyull the wires out of the rubber and insert new wires through it, leaving enough extra to push onto the posts. Then screw the cap together again. Manual calls for stranded solid core copper wires.

Yes, the only modification necessary is to run another blue wire to power the electric eye.

 

[tjl123]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

Frank I have a couple of questions,
1. first when synchronizing the carbs according to your post you wrote I set the cam mark where it is slightly touching the roller, but if
I set the rod out to get the butterflies to open fully at wot when I return the throttle back to neutral the line is below the roller. This is the only way to set the rod to open the butterflies fully.
2. The other problem I have is when I open the throttle fully at this set up , when the carb is almost fully open the distributor backs up a little instead of continuing advancing.

 

[tjl123]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

Frank I have a couple of questions,
1. first when synchronizing the carbs according to your post you wrote I set the cam mark where it is slightly touching the roller, but if
I set the rod out to get the butterflies to open fully at wot when I return the throttle back to neutral the line is below the roller. This is the only way to set the rod to open the butterflies fully.
2. The other problem I have is when I open the throttle fully at this set up , when the carb is almost fully open the distributor backs up a little instead of continuing advancing.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: chrysler 130 hp out board points system to electrionic system

" You can not get to where you are going without knowing where you are now."

Setting the throttle cam with the roller just touching between two lines or directly at the single line is just the starting point. Once you set the length of the adjusting rod so the butterflies open fully, the roller may no longer line up with the cam marks. In fact, when the idle is set, almost certainly the marks will be below the roller. This is normal.

Any yes, as far as the distributor, you are very observant. Because of the linkage, at full throttle the distributor will retard a degree or two. It is normal. ( It is normal on automobiles also to retard timing just a tad at full throttle to help prevent detonation. ). However, the only important number you want is 32 or 30 degrees advance at wide open throttle. (If you only use street pump gas and never marine gas, 32 is fine. If you want to be a bit safer, 30 degrees advance is used. All later Chrysler and Force engines use 30.)