chrysler 130 wont rev past 4400 wot

[banshee130mk2]

Hey guys alright ive exhausted myself short of tearing into the lower unit to see if something is dragging. My 130 (prop 13x21) on my 14.5 ft banshee wont rev past 4400. I have checked the tach.. its correct and at 4400 it does 43 mph so the math with slip works. The motors av plate was level with the bottom of the transom. I raised it an inch and there was no change. I have rebuilt the pump and I have pulled the carbs apart and cleaned them. It takes a bit to start cold but once its warm it will fire instantly. Ive pulled the plugs at idle one at a time and the rpm dropped for all cylinders. Ive checked spark. Every cylinder has spark seems weaker than a car spark but its still there... the engine has the coversion on the ignition so it has no cd box.. its running an automotive oil filled coil with a built in resistor. The engine leg is a 1.76 :1 ratio the boat is max weight rated for 1650lbs. Spark plugs are ngk b8hs . Tried a l82 champion and cylinder 2 filled the plug with combustion particles fuzing the bridge to the electrode. Changed back to new b8hs and it runs good. I am wondering if somethin in the lower could be causing it to be a bit low on rpm . Maybe the coil is going and cuts a cylinder at high rpm. Could reeds cause this? Help!!

 

[sportrider]

maybe your over propped? I'd look at a 17" pitch seeing what rpm your pulling and the pitch your currently running.

 

[banshee130mk2]

See I figured that to but with a 17 pitch at 5500 im still around 43-44mph and this boat should be a rocket. Its oversized by 40hp its max says a 90 and its light I easily move it around on the trailer. I cant see it being more than 800 with the motor

 

[jerryjerry05]

Spark and compression good.
The load? overloaded?
The next is like Sportrider said.
The 21 might be too much? Is that aluminum props?
The 5500 and 43 mph from a 130 is doing pretty good.

 

[banshee130mk2]

Okay I have found something inside the distributor cap. There are four brass pieces inside the cap that run up the sides . One of them looks like it was struck by the rotor at one time . Its been severed about halfway through. Would that cause my drop in rpm?

 

[sportrider]

does it have a misfire? I know when I dropped pitch on my boat I gained about 4mph on top plus the acceleration was worth it even if I had gained nothing on top.

 

[banshee130mk2]

I cant tell its a new boat to me and im not familiar with two stroke stuff. I am a hobby mechanic but this is my first boat. Ya I ordered a 17 pitch prop for it. Ill try it out when it comes and we will see how it goes

 

[MickLovin]

No Title

First thing I would be asking is what is your compression on each cylinder, my 100hp 1979 Chrylser did 41 MPH @ 5000 rpm with a 21 pitch s/s prop, when I went to a 17" s/s it went to 37 MPH @ 5500 on a 17ft Half Cabin the boats max was 115hp. BUT my Chrysler had 155 psi on all cylinders.

 

[jerryjerry05]

If it was "missing" it wouldn't be running like it is.
Fill out the profile? Location?
You might be close to someone who can loan you a prop.
You might not need a 17.
The compression readings will be different with different gauges.
The higher #s won't make any difference in speed.
If your gauge is reading 155 it shows the gauge is reading right.

 

[banshee130mk2]

Alright compression check it is... how about my reeds could they be holding the boat back. Met a guy out on the lake the other day almost the same boat . His was a 15ft with a 125 . He was running a 21 pitch at 55mph

 

[Frank Acampora]

I believe we went over this in another post. Are you located in B.C Canada?

It's not your reeds. If you have a 2 piece lower unit with a thrust pin , 18 spline prop, it is your lower unit and prop. PLUS--the 1.76 is definitely holding you back. If you can find a 2 to 1 ratio lower you will pick-up some top end.

The brass or copper strips running up the inside of the distributor cap are part of what makes the distributor marine grade and explosion proof. They ground to the distributor body and have no effect on running--even if they are damaged. Getting rid of the CD and using an automotive coil with points is a part of your lost performance--no doubt about it. There is a reason why all automobiles and outboards now use electronic ignition--and it isn't cost or ease of service.

Depending upon how important top speed is to you and how much time, effort, and money you want to throw at it, you can: 1. Re-fit stock Motorola Cd ignition. 2. Retro-fit Prestolite ignition off a Later Chrysler or Force. 3. Retro-fit a Mercury Ignition off a late 90s Force--definitely a better ignition system.

Your comment about "combustion" particles has me suspicious.. Very often, a lean cylinder will melt aluminum off the top of the piston and close the plug gap with it. DEFINITELY check and clean both carbs and be certain the low speed needle is not set too lean. Usually, one turn out from lightly seated is the minimum.

 

[banshee130mk2]

Ive cleaned the carbs I have pulled them off multiple times to check and double check. I have access to a 72 85 chrysler can I swap the ignition on that to my 130? It sure looked like it could of been aluminum it was fused on the end of the plug as in never coming off. I have my low speed jets set at 1 and an 1/8 turn out. It only fused the one cylinder with the l82 champion plug. Thats why I thought maybe my reeds were bad up top. It my carb is working fine then could a hole or crack or chip in my reed be blowing fuel back out the intake leaving that cylinder to run lean?

 

[Frank Acampora]

As long as you use the 130 distributor and rotor, the three cylinder ignition will swap in. Since your carbs appear to be OK and set correctly, You need to use a colder plug because although it only happened on one cylinder, a too hot plug will melt the aluminum off the piston baffle and eventually create a hole in the top. I don't know the difference in heat range between the Champions you used and the NGK.

HOWEVER: If you do swap to the Motorola electronic ignition, be certain to go to a surface gap plug like an NGK BUHW or a Champion L20V.

Yes, a broken reed petal can cause a lean run on one cylinder and that is easy to check by simply removing the carb and looking in the manifold. However, I doubt it is the reeds: Reed petals on the Chrysler engines were relatively trouble free and not prone to failure. However, it certainly can not hurt to check.

To show the difference between a one piece lower unit and a two piece lower unit, I swapped the midleg and lower one piece onto my 1977 90 horsepower. with only that difference, the same hull went 3 MPH faster. I also had an 85 on my 14 foot test boat it topped out at 38. A 105 went a couple of MPH faster. Swapping on a 1990 Force 90 yielded 55 on the same boat while a 1990 125 gave 60 MPH. So, you can see that the later electronic ignition and one piece lower unit made quite a difference in speed, not to mention that power after 1982 was rated at the prop while before it was rated at the power head.

 

[banshee130mk2]

Okay now its all making sense thanks frank. Ill check the ratio in the 85 and if it 2:1 ill grab it. If not then ill see about finding myself a 90