Chrysler 140

[pickenpost]

I'm a new boater and I'm having difficulty with my 1982 Chrysler 140 (project). After year's of being mothbolled, I get the motor mounted on a new transom two weeks ago. With new gas/mix and new water pump, I got the motor to run for at least a half an hour in a water tub. I could shut the motor off and then I could start it instantly. When I shut it off and left it for an hour, I couldn't start it again that day. I'm ready to hit the lake today and I still can't get it started (it rumbled once with a quick shot of starter fluid). I can tell its getting gas from the wet plugs. Any hints are appreciated. The electric choke works fine and all the controls work.

Tim

 

[pickenpost]

Re: Chrysler 140

Engine runs for 10 seconds with fuel/mix squirted into each cylinder. Fuel pump?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Chrysler 140



Well, if it runs for 10 seconds with premix squirted into each cylinder, then wet plugs or not, it is not getting any fuel.

Even a bad fuel pump--if it is not completely shot--will run the engine at idle. Not well, but it will run it. Remove the pump and check the diaphragm. Replace both it and the gasket as a matter of course. But, if the diaphragm is not torn, it should deliver some fuel. Oh, forgot: The 140 has two fuel pumps. Check all hoses between them, open the pumps and check to see that the button valves are not stuck shut.

I suspect that you need to remove and clean the carbs. It is quite likely that some junk has loosened and clogged either the inlet needles or the low speed circuit. While you are at it, check the quick-connects for varnish, junk, and fuel line debris lodged in them

 

[pickenpost]

Re: Chrysler 140

Thanks Frank. I have a fuel pump kit on order for the two pumps and I'll check check the lines and carbs. Stay tuned. Tim

 

[pickenpost]

Re: Chrysler 140

Frank, I replace the diaphram on one pump (accidently only ordered one kit), I cleaned out the carbs (a little gum in there) and replaced the brittle fuel lines. Motor started on first try. I took it out this afternoon on it's maiden voyage and we tooled around the lake for about an hour of constant running (great power). As we approached the ramp the engined started to lose power. It ran just long enough to get us close to the ramp with the controls pushed all the way forward, and then it died. I didn't try starting it again. When I got home I tried starting it, and it started right up. Do you think this is overheating? The second fuel diaphram? Tim

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Chrysler 140

On that engine the borrom fuel pump feeds the top one so yes, it could be the second diaphragm is shot and needs replacement.

However, you need to do a complete diagnostic on the engine. Check compression ratio on all four cylinders, check the plugs, double check the timing, and re-clean the carbs.

Look closely at the photo above of my 140 with the red carb covers. Notice that there is a fuel filter between the carbs. The engine did not come that way and any crap that is shed by the fuel pumps is trapped by the filter, rather than passing into the carbs ang causing problems. Now, your engine has the carb feed from the bottom. You still can put a filter in line. I changed the feed to between the carbs because I have lots of those 90 degree filters and it is easier to place them between the carbs.

Go to the top of the forum page and click on FAQs. Then, click on synchronizing timing and carbs. This gives you all the information you need to know to set up the engine correctly. ASSUME that anything that can be out of adjustment IS out of adjustment. Set everything back to factory specs.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Chrysler 140

Yes, the second diaphragm could be causing problems.

The engine will smell burning and hot if it overheats and your indicator should go off--you do have an overheat indicator connected, don't you? Orange wire to a light or buzzer.
If you have not replaced the water pump impeller, do it now.

At this point, you should do a complete diagnostic on the engine. Check compression ratio on all cylinders, check for spark on all cylinders, clean the plugs, check for adequate water delivery, and re-check the carbs. Any crap shed by the pump diaphragms will work right into the carbs, causing problems. Buy a cheap plastic in-line filter and put it between the top fuel pump and carbs. look at the first photo above. Notice the plastic fuel filter between the carbs. I put it there because it is easier to fit that 90 degree filter at that point but you can place it where you want.

Assume that anything that can be out of adjustment or can wear out (like a water pump impeller) IS out of adjustment or worn out.

Go to the top of the forum page and click on FAQs. Then click on synchronizing timing and carbs. All you need to know is there.

 

[pickenpost]

Re: Chrysler 140

Thanks Frank. I'll complete all of your suggestions and dig into the FAQs. The boat originally had a Chrysler 75 on it and I purchased this 140, so I don't have the overheat light. I'll install one. I see the orange wire. The owner said the motor was originally on a pontoon boat.
I just installed a water pump kit, so I'm good there. More to come. Thanks. Tim

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Chrysler 140

Run a hot wire from the "I"(ignition) or "A" (Accessory) terminal of the ignition switch to one lead of the light or buzzer. The other lead connects to the orange wire. At the engine, the overheat switch goes to ground when too hot and allows voltage to flow through the indicator.

The "I" or "A" terminal only has power when the ignition switch is on, so when you turn off the engine the light or buzzer will not stay on and annoy you.

 

[pickenpost]

Re: Chrysler 140

Thanks.