Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

[samcam]

Have been traying to remove the lower unit from my 35hp but I don't the lower unit getting loose. The only thing I did was to remove the 8 bolts on the first and second stage of the boot. I order the manual but it will tale a coupple of weeks do to the hurricane ike. I was wondering is someone has a break down image of the motor showing the removal of the lower unit.

 

[roscoe]

Re: Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

year?

 

[i386]

Re: Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

It could be as simple as forgetting to disconnect the shift linkage. Like roscoe said, year would be helpful.

 

[roscoe]

Re: Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

here is one from a 1982

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/images/CHRYSLER/FOB3773/14.png

 

[samcam]

Re: Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

year?

I don't know but I have some pics that I can sent you if I can have diff. email because I can't post any attachmnets in the post. Or maybe the serial number will help? let me know if the serial will help, if you do I will post it tomorrow. The pics are ready to be sent so let me know...

Thank you,

 

[roscoe]

Re: Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

Serial And Model Number Should Do It.

 

[samcam]

Re: Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

Serial And Model Number Should Do It.

I am sorry that it took to long, but I berely got the power back on from IKE. The model is 355HA and the serial number 4682.

Thanks,

 

[samcam]

Re: Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

Any Idea!

 

[steelespike]

Re: Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

I am sorry that it took to long, but I berely got the power back on from IKE. The model is 355HA and the serial number 4682.

Thanks,

1970 long shaft electric start.early lower unit and driveshaft removal.Remove leg covers and disscinnect shift rodcoupler.Remove remove screws securing
drive shaft housing to motor leg.and remove the comeplete lower unit drive assembly.There is a nut inside the gearcase securing the gearcase to the drive shaft housing.later models remove the the leg covers and unbolt lower unit from the motor leg.remove pin connecting intermediate shift rod.Seperate lower unit from motor leg. If your sure all bolts are out the drive shaft may be seized in the crankshaft.Again there is a nut inside the gearcase that secures the gearcase to the drive shaft housing.

 

[samcam]

Re: Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

1970 long shaft electric start.early lower unit and driveshaft removal.Remove leg covers and disscinnect shift rodcoupler.Remove remove screws securing
drive shaft housing to motor leg.and remove the comeplete lower unit drive assembly.There is a nut inside the gearcase securing the gearcase to the drive shaft housing.later models remove the the leg covers and unbolt lower unit from the motor leg.remove pin connecting intermediate shift rod.Seperate lower unit from motor leg. If your sure all bolts are out the drive shaft may be seized in the crankshaft.Again there is a nut inside the gearcase that secures the gearcase to the drive shaft housing.

I will try that and see if it works. Thanks.

 

[samcam]

Re: Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

Hello Steelespike,
I finally had time to get to the motor but I can't find any pin on the leg or nut inside the gearcase. I removed the covers below the powerhead and remove the rodcoupler and remove the eight bolts on both sections and the lower unit does not come down. I think I missing something, I have some pictures that I can sent you if you can get an email address.
I hope you can help me?

 

[eurolarva]

Re: Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

There was a two piece 55 to 85HP that has a drive shaft bolt on the bottom but this will not work on a 35 HP. If shift rod is disconnected and the 4 bolts (not 8) holding the lower to the motor leg are removed then the drive shaft is probably siezed. Is this motor run in salt water? There are multiple threads on how to do remove this but there is probably no for sure way to do it without doing damage. The lower unit should move an inch or two with everything disconnected. You could pry inside there and trash the water pump. this will allow you to get access to the driveshaft from the bottom. You might be able to do something with it when you get that far. If you do separate it make sure you put anti seize on the splines going to the power head and flush motor after each use in salt water.

 

[samcam]

Re: Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

There was a two piece 55 to 85HP that has a drive shaft bolt on the bottom but this will not work on a 35 HP. If shift rod is disconnected and the 4 bolts (not 8) holding the lower to the motor leg are removed then the drive shaft is probably siezed. Is this motor run in salt water? There are multiple threads on how to do remove this but there is probably no for sure way to do it without doing damage. The lower unit should move an inch or two with everything disconnected. You could pry inside there and trash the water pump. this will allow you to get access to the driveshaft from the bottom. You might be able to do something with it when you get that far. If you do separate it make sure you put anti seize on the splines going to the power head and flush motor after each use in salt water.

Thanks,
This motor was actually not used on salt water but I will try to force it out. There are two sets of four bolts on two stages . I remove all eight but I think you are talking about the ones on the lower stage close to the prop. So this motor does not have that pin or nut that releases the shaft? If not I will not worry about that. Let me know if I am wrong.
Thank You for your time,

 

[eurolarva]

Re: Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

My clymer and factory manual show this only on the larger lower unit 55 - 85. I can not guarentee it but I doubt there is one there. By 8 bolts you must have a long shaft motor. The extension has for bolts on top and four on the bottom. I would bet the farm that your drive shaft is seized to the powerhead.

 

[samcam]

Re: Chrysler 35 HP Breakdown

My clymer and factory manual show this only on the larger lower unit 55 - 85. I can not guarentee it but I doubt there is one there. By 8 bolts you must have a long shaft motor. The extension has for bolts on top and four on the bottom. I would bet the farm that your drive shaft is seized to the powerhead.

Yes, I believe it has a long shaft, I think is more than 20 inches.But you are probably right, I just need to remove the bolts completely on the bottom part.
Actually, the bolts in the bottom are really stuck with the casting and I bet that is what is making the lower unit not to come down. I was just scare of bracking something if it actually had that nut or pin. I will try and use the force and see what happens.

Thank you,