chysler 130 outboard rpm at 4300 wot

banshee130mk2

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Should be like 5500 correct? The prop on it is a 3 blade numbers are worn off it . I have a 13-23 3 blade I could try. Good idea
 

Sea Rider

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Welcome to Iboats,

Try your current prop and the spare one at wot on flat calm waters and lightly loaded boat, keep rpm record of both prop wot trials. Compare rpm to factory stated wot rpm once you know real wot numbers and go from there. Both props and tach must be in good working conditiom.

Happy Boating
 
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steelespike

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Numbers sometimes appear under the prop nut or on the under side look very carefully near the base of the blades.We need your boat description.
Your lightly loaded wot rpm and gps speed.Very often tachs are not accurate.Also your gear ratio would help.
 

banshee130mk2

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Okay guys I figured out what prop it is . The boat does 43mph at 4300rpm suppose to run at 5500 and the prop is a 13.12 x 21 . I have checked the spark and all cylinders are firing boat idles great and runs up 2/3 throttle fine. It will run wot but after a few seconds sputters pretty good. If I pump the primer ball it doesnt sputter. Ive gotten a max of 4300 rpm . The boat has a new inline fuel filter and the screen in the fuel pump is clean.
 

Frank Acampora

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Again, what hull? Size is important to know. For example, I had a 125 that I bought on my 21 foot cuddy. RPM was about 4500 and top speed was 35. I put the same engine on a 14 foot flat bottom and top speed went to 60 at 5900 RPM.

Now back to your engine: If the engine sputters at WOT and squeezing the primer bulb stops the sputter, then you need to change the fuel pump diaphragm and gasket. You also need to check the button valves of the fuel pump.

Unless you are running a very light boat, 21 is too much pitch for your engine That RPM is too low. That engine should turn about 4500-5500 RPM at WOT with rated horsepower developed at 5000 RPM.

Again, It is important to know the size of the boat and the year of the engine. It is also important to know whether the engine has a one piece lower unit or a two piece lower with the thrust pin prop.

43 at4300 is a decent turn of speed BUT only turning that RPM, something does not compute. Tachometer needs to be checked and speed should be verified by GPS.
 

banshee130mk2

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The boat it a 14.5 foot banshee mk2 its max weight rating is 1600lbs which I wasnt at id say more like 1200lbs with me and fuel ect. I have a diaphram on order for the pump . I am not sure what button valves are. The boat has a two piece lower from what I can tell and the prop is an 18spline with a pin that slides through. Then I spin the cone on the end and put a coder pin through it. It says on the motor plate 130bhp at 5250. And its rated to run 5000-5500
 

banshee130mk2

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The speed was recorded on gps with two different systems and the engine is a serial number 1306bb with says 1973.
 

banshee130mk2

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No Title

Here it is . I dont know the hull shape or term but it seems rather flat.
 

Frank Acampora

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The picture is really too small to see, but that looks suspiciously like a Chrysler Shallow Vee hull. It would be around 16 feet long, probably weighs around 1500 unloaded, and a 19 pitch prop will get the engine up another couple of hundred RPM. However, speed may stay the same.

If it is a shallow vee, go over to The Chrysler Crew marine website and post a couple of photos. There will also be at least a couple of guys with that exact set-up who can tell you the best way to maximize performance.
 

banshee130mk2

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Hope this is better
 

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banshee130mk2

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Ya its definitely a 14.5ft banshee mk 2 with a max weight rating of 1650lbs it has a stamped tag on the side. It also says max size is suppose to be a 90
 

banshee130mk2

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Maclin

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Cool boat! Definitely get the fuel delivery problem you have at the higher RPM's fixed because the fuel mix is leaning out and you can burn a piston or two.
 

banshee130mk2

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Thanks! It is new to me but seems like it was lacking in maintenence. I changed the lower unit oil. I have cleaned out the screen in the fuel pump. I ordered a fuel pump kit as well as swapped put the fuel filter. I set the idle and my mixture. I started at one turn out I think I found it was running the best at about a turn and a quarter. Does that sound right? . The boat runs great all the way to wot and it will hold 4300 rpm for a minute before it slows the rpm to 35 or 3800 and hesitates. Is that a sign of a lean condition?
 

Frank Acampora

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OK! 14 foot banshee with a Chrysler 130. Good combination. I had a 14 foot flat bottom with a Force 125 and she did 60MPH at 5900 RPM. I was using a Chrysler Stainless cleaver prop, 12 1/2 X .21. I have also used other props and even with a lower RPM, speed still stayed around 60

You, my friend are very limited on prop selection because those 18 spline props are no longer available new. You must find them on the auctions. You could look around for a Bronze prop but I doubt you will find stainless. Aluminum is regressive. If you want performance, you really need to find a couple of bronze props

21 pitch on a boat that size is about correct but to get RPM up a little you must raise the engine on the transom a bit. Anti-ventilation plate about 1 inch above the bottom would be about correct.

NOW, for some background so you know what you are dealing with: Chrysler rated their engines at the powerhead until about 1982. That means that in the water, you are getting about 110- 115 horsepower. Later Chrysler and Force engines were rated at the prop so horsepower rating is more true. ADDITIONALLY: The two piece lower unit and thrust pin 18 spline prop is about 1 inch longer than the one piece lower and less efficient. Thus, the net effect is that the engine performs like a smaller one

If you are satisfied with performance, you can leave the engine like it is. With a little tweaking you should be able to get a little more speed.

IF, on the other hand, you are unhappy with performance, you can swap the complete powerhead onto a one piece midleg and lower unit. The advantage will be: 1. At least a 3 MPH increase and 2. A much betted selection of props , again leading to a higher top speed. This mod is not particularly difficult but it will take a complete weekend day.

The button valves are brass valves in the top body of the fuel pump that check the flow of fuel to keep it in one direction. To check them, clean the body well and alternately blow and suck on each valve. If they pass air freely in one direction and seal (relatively speaking) in the other direction, they are good. The seal does not need to be perfect, they can pass a little air and still function correctly when wet with fuel.

1 1/4 turns out is actually a little rich but will certainly do no harm and is way better for the engine than a too lean condition. It certainly sounds like the engine is running out of fuel at the top end and continued use like this may be bad for it. I suggest you do not go over 1/2 throttle until you rebuild the fuel pump.
 
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Maclin

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Sounds a lot like fuel starvation, definiteley needs some work with carbs or fuel pump or plumbing to fuel pump.
 

Maclin

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I had not seen Frank's post before I responded. Frank is one of the Gurus of the Ancient Chryslers. I can say Ancient because I have had them and like them :)
 

banshee130mk2

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Okay so I knew somethin was up . I figured I should of got over 50mph at least. My pump will be rebuilt today or tomorrow . If I blow in the intake for the pump the valve makes a noise like a out of tune flute. The engine runs great outside of the water. Ive taken it over 5500 rpm without a hesitation or blip or anything. But once underload it wont go over 4300 and then hesitates after a minute at wot. So could this be a thermostat? Can I put a small inline electric fuel pump on the line?. I have about 6 feet of fuel line when I only really need about 3 . Could the extra line be causing it to starve?. Also my carb bowls are weeping very slightly when its running. Would that change anything?
 

banshee130mk2

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Thank you guys so much for your help. Thank god I found this forum. I was gonna say I also checked my spark and it seems weak. I bought new plugs the ones recommended for my engine and I installed them the motor would not fire. I put the old ones back in and it fired right away. I opened the distributor and the points seemed a bit worn as well there was a chip out of the corner end of the rotor. Which seems to be one piece with the distributor itself.
 
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