chysler 130 outboard rpm at 4300 wot

[SkiDad]

i have to agree with Frank - the prop is causing your low RPM - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Michigan-Wh..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item1e8caff5d7&vxp=mtr there were others in same pitch.

 

[banshee130mk2]

I ordered a 13x17 on ebay last night so hopefully that helps as well

 

[Frank Acampora]

Since the fuel pump button valves are a type of reed valve, they will "honk" if you blow through them. Your fuel line is not too long to cause problems HOWEVER, in addition to replacing the fuel pump diaphragm as a maintenance item, you should also check all fuel lines and fittings clear back to the tank pick-up to check for partial clogging.

The distributor rotor is one piece, epoxy glued to the shaft. It is not serviceable. The whole shaft/cam/rotor assembly must be replaced--that is, unless you are lucky and good. Find a good rotor and are able to free the glue off yours etc. WAY too much trouble.

I have in the past seen a set of new plugs refuse to fire at all yet when old ones were installed, the engine started and ran well--go figure. I have no explanation.

In the driveway, under no load conditions, all but the sickest of engines will exceed 5500 RPM. I have done this with engines with only two cylinders out of four running This shows nothing other than the engine is getting spark. It takes so little fuel to achieve a no-load high RPM that the engine will never starve in the driveway and I never recommend doing this. It is rough on the engine..

The 17pitch prop will allow the engine to achieve about 400 RPM more. HOWEVER: do not be surprised if speed does not increase and in fact may decrease. The lower unit, midleg, and prop you have is so inefficient that the engine most likely will never see 50--at any rate, it would surprise me. I though 43 was decent for what you have.

NOW: I don't remember the lower unit ratio on your specific engine, BUT-- if it is a 1.76 to 1 and if you can find an old 90 with a 2 to 1 ratio, using the 2 to 1 lower unit on your engine will gain at least 3 and possibly as much as 8 MPH. (turning a high pitched prop at slower rpm while the engine revs up higher has a lot less parasitic drag and frees more horsepower to actually move the boat) I have covered a lot of this stuff in past posts on the Force/Chrysler forum. Search my post there and you can read them.

By the way: You can cut off a 5/16 stainless bolt and use the unthreaded portion as a prop thrust pin. You can also use a 5/16 allen head bolt with a nylock nut on the end. That way, even though you can't use the tailcone, you will never lose the thrust pin and prop.

Oh, yeah---Do not attempt to use an electric fuel pump. They are not rated for marine use and are dangerous because they will not automatically shut off if the engine stalls. Simply a bad idea especially when the impulse pumps have proven reliable and mostly trouble free.

 

[banshee130mk2]

Okay can I get a leg unit from any force or chysler 90? Only a 90 leg will fit the same? At 4300rpm im no where near bhp. I thought with a prop change it would bring me closer to max hp at 5250 meaning more power to move the boat. Correct? Ill check the fuel line and rebuild the pump tomorrow. Try to get my fuel issue solved first.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Unless you change the midleg, the only lower unit that will fit is from a pre-1978 Chrysler. While to lower units from later 70s Chryslers look different than the early 70s lower units, the bolt pattern is the same and they will swap with no modifications. I believe that 1978 was the year Chrysler re-designed the lower unit to a one piece and this will not fit as it has a different bolt pattern. If the lower unit has a 15 spline prop shaft, it will not fit your engine. I have only seen the 2 to 1 unit on the 90 but it may have been used on the 70 or 75. ALL the 4 cylinder engines--as far as I know were 1.76 to 1

I need to explain pitch a little better: Just as you get more power in low gear in your auto but can not go fast, sometimes dropping in pitch will allow the engine to produce more power but the prop simply can not travel fast enough through the water to yield increased speed. SO, changing pitch may or may not give more speed. However, dropping down to a 17 pitch WILL definitely improve hole shot and time to plane

Where are you located?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Unless you change the midleg, the only lower unit that will fit is from a pre-1978 Chrysler. While the lower units from later 70s (1976-77) Chryslers look different than the early 70s lower units, the bolt pattern is the same and they will swap with no modifications. I believe that 1978 was the year Chrysler re-designed the lower unit to a one piece and this will not fit as it has a different bolt pattern. If the lower unit has a 15 spline prop shaft, it will not fit your engine. I have only seen the 2 to 1 unit on the 90 but it may have been used on the 70 or 75. ALL the 4 cylinder engines--as far as I know were 1.76 to 1

I need to explain pitch a little better: Just as you get more power in low gear in your auto but can not go fast, sometimes dropping in pitch will allow the engine to produce more power but the prop simply can not travel fast enough through the water to yield increased speed. SO, changing pitch may or may not give more speed. However, dropping down to a 17 pitch WILL definitely improve hole shot and time to plane.

Where are you located?

 

[banshee130mk2]

Gotcha I did some reading about the props and the degee also is relative to length of movement per rotation correct? So a 17 will help my low end alot but not really to much change on the top. I am LOCATED in british Columbia , canada. Kelowna area.

 

[banshee130mk2]

Its probably gonna take me a while to find a leg with 2:1 that will fit this thing ill keep my eyes peeled but I havent seen alot of chrysler engines around. Till then ill do the fuel pump and check the height of the motor. I think the av plate is level with the bottom of the transom right now. As well I was saying my carbs are weeping a tiny bit around the bowl while its running could this cause it to go lean? I pulled the fuel pump off the other day and the diaphram was black but no tears in it. The one corner was separating from the gasket slightly im not sure if this would be a problem. Ill check the button valves tomorrow.

 

[banshee130mk2]

I have found a chrysler 85 mid 70s will these parts interchange with my 130? I rebuilt the fuel pump. And I still lose prime once hitting wot. I can feel the ball loose the fuel as I hit it.

 

[banshee130mk2]

Found my fuel problem. Little fitting at the tank. Was sucking air big time

 

[Maclin]

Good deal!

 

[banshee130mk2]

Ill have it out today and get back. I also noticed the cam gear was way off. Could that effect to rpm and mph? I adjusted it according to franks thread.

 

[banshee130mk2]

Alright fixed it. Had zero bog . It was really choppy but the boat still only did 43mph at 4400. It definitely picked up huge amount of acceleration. The fuel issue was a big one. Now when I hit it from an idle it just goes. Feels like 5 seconds and its at 4400 and 43mph. And its like its topped out.

 

[Frank Acampora]

almost everything will swap with the exception of the distributor rotor. However, before you go buying engines, check your lower unit for gear ratio: Put the engine in gear. Turn the prop backwards until it locks against the drive dogs. Mark the prop and lower unit so you know where the starting point is. Mark the flywheel and block for the same reason. Turn the flywheel exactly two turns. If the prop turns exactly one turn, gear ratio is 2 to 1. If it turns about 1 1/4 turns, the gear ratio is 1.76. If you are buying an engine specifically for gear ratio of lower unit, do the same test. If a lower unit is detached, lightly clam a vise-grip pliers on the drive shaft splines.

Kelowna B.C. That's way out there. That's why I asked--going to be difficult to find anyone local to help and probably difficult to find the lower unit you want.

 

[banshee130mk2]

Okay I will check that tomorrow. Is the the 85 a 2:1 to your knowledge? I still only got 43 mph out of the oat in really choppy water and it seemed to rev put at a max of 4300-4400rpm... but it took no time to get there. It shot out of the hole and was topped out in what seemed like a few seconds.

 

[banshee130mk2]

I cant thank you guys enough especially you frank for all your help and advice. This has helped me get this boat into shape and it would of been alot harder to figure out alone.