Clacking noise from outdrive

thephoneman

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
75
Hey guys I'm back again. So a few weeks ago I had a knocking sound in my transom. Changed the u joints and reassembled. Next time on the water the noise was worse and ended with the u joint failing catastrophicly. After getting the parts I put in a new gimbal bearing (used the tool to align) new bellows kit etc, refilled the drive and got it back together. Upon testing it with the muffs on the out drive seems to be making a lot of clacking regardless of gear or neutral. It's hard to pinpoint it with the noise from the exhaust there as well and I haven't put it in the water to see if there original issue was fixed. So any suggestions on where to start? Thanks again for all the wonderful advice.
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,363
Pull the drive and inspect the joints to verify they are fully seated and the C clips are in place correctly.If the gimbal bearing is not fully seated the yoke with contact it and make a clacking noise
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
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Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,701
Pull the drive and connect hose to the thermostat housing. Run the motor, and if the noise is gone then its in the drive.

If in the drive, need to start taking it apart or get another one
 

thephoneman

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
75
Pull the drive and connect hose to the thermostat housing. Run the motor, and if the noise is gone then its in the drive.

If in the drive, need to start taking it apart or get another one

I'm afraid this might be the correct way. I've ran the motor before with the outdrive off and there were no unusual noises. So if I were to start digging into the outdrive where would I start?
 

alldodge

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wrong u joints, gimbal bearing not fully seated

Agree this could be it

Also is there any play in the yoke that goes into the drive.
When lube was changed was there any metal in it?

Put your fingers in the gimbal bearing and does it feel real smooth when rotated?

Split the drive
Remove the top cap from the drive and what do the gears look like?
When the drive shaft is rotated by hand does it feel rough?
 

thephoneman

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
75
Agree this could be it

Also is there any play in the yoke that goes into the drive.
When lube was changed was there any metal in it?

Put your fingers in the gimbal bearing and does it feel real smooth when rotated?

Split the drive
Remove the top cap from the drive and what do the gears look like?
When the drive shaft is rotated by hand does it feel rough?

Didn't appear to be any play. The gear oil didn't have any gritty feel to it. There was the usual flakes on the magnet. Gimbal is brand new. So just for clarification, remove the out drive and take the bottom unit off like I was going to change the impeller and then remove the top cap on the upper? After I drain the gear lube first.
 

Searay205

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 27, 2018
Messages
468
remove outdrive and check gimbal bearing and u-joints. If that checks rotate input shaft on outdrive, does it turn smoothly? Gimbal is new. In the nuclear industry 59% of the time maintenance is performed a problem is CREATED which must be addressed within 45 days. You probably created a problem. taking you car to get repaired 4 times is about average, trust me the auto dealerships don't have the work procedures and checklist like nuclear plants.
 

alldodge

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Staff member
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Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,701
So just for clarification, remove the out drive and take the bottom unit off like I was going to change the impeller and then remove the top cap on the upper?

Your unable to get the shift foot in straight ahead position (FWD). So disconnect the upper from the lower and drop the lower before removing the drive. This way the shift foot does not need to be placed FWD
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
I’d be pulling the top cap first. Takes several minutes and is often telling. Then pull the drive and continue.
 

thephoneman

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
75
I’d be pulling the top cap first. Takes several minutes and is often telling. Then pull the drive and continue.

Thanks for all the input fellas. I'll start digging in to it tomorrow. Should I drain the gear oil before I take the top off? I'll take pics and post my findings. Hopefully it's obvious and simple lol
 

salty3rd

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 13, 2010
Messages
109
remove outdrive and check gimbal bearing and u-joints. If that checks rotate input shaft on outdrive, does it turn smoothly? Gimbal is new. In the nuclear industry 59% of the time maintenance is performed a problem is CREATED which must be addressed within 45 days. You probably created a problem. taking you car to get repaired 4 times is about average, trust me the auto dealerships don't have the work procedures and checklist like nuclear plants.
Unless the problem is safety related and puts you in a 7 day LCO 😉.
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Frankly, I'd be considering just swapping in an SEI drive and go boating. Is what I did on my last drive problem that required a rebuild. Cheaper and you get a 3 year warranty. Hard to get much warranty on a drive rebuild.
 
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