Compression differences Ocean Pro 175 1994-model

[Andrik]

I have bought an Ocena Pro 175 1994-model that previously has been under water (over ten years ago). The previous owner says that he has used it several years after that, but it has not been used the last three years.

I have not been able to start the motor, and have started with changing the starter (had corroded..) and overhauling the bendix drive (had fastened...), and was then able to test the compression.

I have to replace the optical timer wheel before trying to start it - had to take off the flywheel covers too get the bendix off. The optical timer wheel was impossible to get off without destroying it - corrosion...

The motor does not look bad from the outside, please see attached picture.

​The compression is as follows (cold testing - 48 F utside);

Left side from the top
Cylinder 1 - 81
Cylinder 2 - 90
Cylinder 3 - 90

Right side from the top
Cylinder 4 - 78 (First time it showed 69, but after several testings, it was 78)
Cylinder 5 - 95
Cylinder 6- 80

Does anyone have any diagnosis or recommendations?

 

[reiddo1]

Your readings are all low compared to my 2000 Johnson 150 hp; are you certain your starter motor is turning over the engine fast enough to get the higher compression readings? Maybe with a fresh battery the starter motor speed will pick up somewhat. Are you getting spark on your plugs? Others will recommend you use a spark gap tester but I merely wrap a wire around the threaded portion of the spark plug and connect the other end to a suitable engine ground. With all the plugs removed you can check for spark on all plugs and on all wires using this method and observe firing on the plugs but having someone else turn the key while you observe. With spark and good fuel, the engine should offer to start even with these compression numbers. Good luck

 

[Andrik]

Your readings are all low compared to my 2000 Johnson 150 hp; are you certain your starter motor is turning over the engine fast enough to get the higher compression readings? Maybe with a fresh battery the starter motor speed will pick up somewhat. Are you getting spark on your plugs? Others will recommend you use a spark gap tester but I merely wrap a wire around the threaded portion of the spark plug and connect the other end to a suitable engine ground. With all the plugs removed you can check for spark on all plugs and on all wires using this method and observe firing on the plugs but having someone else turn the key while you observe. With spark and good fuel, the engine should offer to start even with these compression numbers. Good luck

Thanks again, Reiddo1. Yes, I will try when I get the timer wheel. There was no trouble for the battery to turn the engine. Maybe I should try to clean the carburators?

 

[sutor623]

If you don't mind me asking, what kind of $ do you have tied up into this motor, and how much are you willing to put into it?

 

[reiddo1]

Your confirmed expense going forward is the optical sensor wheel. If you are certain your starter is turning over fast enough ( I am not certain with all your lower compression numbers) then I would try with the new optical sensor, with spark on all 6 plugs, and with robust starter speed to get the engine to at least fire up. If it does so, then I would use Seafoam or some other compatible fuel cleaner concentrated in a gallon of mixed fuel (as described on this site under the heading Dunks Method) allowing the engine to run at idle speed or slightly elevated speed. If you are successful to this point, 2 improvements may be realized, namely cleansing of the carburetors and removal of carbon deposits from the rings. I have done this with my 150 Johnson and immediately noticed improvements. Do not raise the engine speed significantly during this procedure unless and until you are getting regular firing on all cylinders. If you cannot achieve this then maybe a carburetor overhaul is warranted.
L

 

[Andrik]

If you don't mind me asking, what kind of $ do you have tied up into this motor, and how much are you willing to put into it?

I have not put much dollars in the motor. I bought a Sunbird 203 boat with this motor and a quite new trailer cheap, so even if I have to buy anorher motor, I have not lost any money.

Will not spend a lot of money on this motor, but it would be very satisfactory to fix it.

 

[Andrik]

Update: Mounted the timer wheel yesterday. Checked every plug for sparks. Tried to start up today, but no firing up. I was not able to pump the rubber hand-pump hard, the gas flowed out of the fuel hose fittings into the carburators on the left side of the motor. When trying to start, this also happened.

Is this an indication of clogged carburators on this side?

 

[reiddo1]

Does this motor have a priming pump activated by pushing in the key after you have pumped up the fuel pressure by using the hand pump? After pumping up the pressure by hand on mine, I turn the key to the on position and while the systems check gauge is going through its lightup cycle, I push in the key to activate the electric primer pump and hold it until the lights go out. This normally takes less that 5 seconds. Then I turn the key to engage the starter and she always fires right up .If you have used the electric primer pump during the starting sequence as I have described and if you are getting spark on each plug, there is no reason why the engine should not fire and offer to start when you initially crank the engine over on the key. Are you getting spark on all the plugs when turning the engine over using the key? Good luck

 

[reiddo1]

Sorry I did not read your last post carefully enough. You obviously have a problem if your manual hand primer does not get hard. Sounds very much like a number of your carburetor floats are stuck or the fuel inlet valves are not closing properly. This probably was caused by the engine lay up time and a carburetor cleaning may be in order.

 

[Andrik]

Thanks, I did not know about the priming pump by pushing in the key. Will try tomorrow. But isn`t it something wrong when I am not able to pump up the pressure on the hand pump? It will not get hard, and the gasoline starts flowing out of the fuellines going into the carburators on the left side.

 

[David Young]

Yep. One or more of your carbs float isn't closing.

 

[Andrik]

No Title

I have just cleaned the carbs. One of the floats was mounted up-down.... I hope to mount the carbs in a couple of days and then will try to fire it up again.

Does anyone know the function of these six small "rings" in the holes in the intake manifold? Please see attached picture where I point at one of them. Some of the "rings"seems to be loose, some not.

 

[racerone]

The electic primer on these motors is not a pump.--It is a valve that opens when key is pushed in .--When the motor is cranking you push the key in.--This puts fuel pressure to the valve and fuel is sprayed in when the valve is open.

 

[bob johnson]

The electic primer on these motors is not a pump.--It is a valve that opens when key is pushed in .--When the motor is cranking you push the key in.--This puts fuel pressure to the valve and fuel is sprayed in when the valve is open.

well to go a little further..... this primer system doesn't work unless the FUEL LINE has PRESSURE....which usually comes from the Primer bulb on the fuel line... you pump it up to create pressure...then on start up, when you push the key in to PRIME you open the "gate" and the pressure in the line squirts gas directly into the carb throats....bypassing the float and carb bowls.......of course if your floats are stuck... your motor will soon die even if it does start from "priming".....

but... did you verify yet that you have spark????????????

bob

 

[racerone]

When the motor is cranking the fuel pump provides the PRESSURE.------------Many folks mistakenly push the key in for a count of 10 before cranking.

 

[bob johnson]

When the motor is cranking the fuel pump provides the PRESSURE.------------Many folks mistakenly push the key in for a count of 10 before cranking.

it isn't mistaken...I have been doing it for 8 years now.... I pump the bulb, turn the key to on and push in and hold for about 8 seconds, then I turn the key to crank

and the motor usually starts.

if it doesn't I notice the bulb goes down and I pump it back up.... and do it over again... and then the motor will fire.

if you don't do it this way, you can crank that engine for 5 minutes before it might fire


bob

 

[racerone]

???-------That is your way and I start them my way !

 

[reiddo1]

For me the key merely needs to be pushed in for a very short time and yes, all you are doing is opening a valve to admit gas into the carb throats. Calling it a primer pump is certainly incorrect but I have seen it called this many times. Almost like calling an anti ventilation plate a cavitation plate.

 

[Andrik]

well to go a little further..... this primer system doesn't work unless the FUEL LINE has PRESSURE....which usually comes from the Primer bulb on the fuel line... you pump it up to create pressure...then on start up, when you push the key in to PRIME you open the "gate" and the pressure in the line squirts gas directly into the carb throats....bypassing the float and carb bowls.......of course if your floats are stuck... your motor will soon die even if it does start from "priming".....

but... did you verify yet that you have spark????????????

bob

Yes, sparks on all plugs.

 

[Andrik]

But can anyone tell me the function of the small rings on the wholes in the intake manifold? Please see the picture I attached yesterday? (#12)some are loose, others not.