Confused on polyresin glassing

[surban21]

Preparing to replace strings, transom, deck, etc as they are completely rotted on my 1978 15' 6" Challenger Mark VI tri hull. I've been reading many rebuild projects on this site and specifically (of course) Friscoboater's rebuild. I've decided to use all polyresin with 1708 and csm, etc.

When it comes time to tab in the stringers, transom and what-not, I'm confused. Just about everything I've read said to layup with unwaxed polyresin, and on the last layer use waxed, otherwise the resin remains tacky due to it being exposed to oxygen (air). However, Frisco's rebuild was done entirely with unwaxed resin except for the top of his deck (I believe). At some point, I also read a post by Woodonglass where he stated he'd personally would not use a waxed final layer on any structural under the deck.

So I guess my question is, can polyresin actually be used without the top layer being waxed? And if so, does that weaken its final curing strength? I will also welcome any other thoughts regarding this.

Any thoughts or ideas about this would be very helpful. Thanks

 

[froggy1150]

Wax not needed. I had no issues with curing. I encased every piece of wood before it went into the boat. Almost ready to do deck and the only time I will use it is on final gel coat layer..... if I gelcoat

 

[sphelps]

Like froggy said no need for wax . Just make sure you add the correct amount of hardener and mix well .

 

[surban21]

Thanks for the replies...

Wax not needed. I had no issues with curing. I encased every piece of wood before it went into the boat. Almost ready to do deck and the only time I will use it is on final gel coat layer..... if I gelcoat

By encased do you mean wrapped in a layer of csm?

Like froggy said no need for wax . Just make sure you add the correct amount of hardener and mix well .

Does the resin completely harden or will there always be somewhat of a tackiness to it?

 

[sphelps]

It will harden .. If it’s still a bit tacky you can give it a wipe with some acetone on s rag first before you sand ..
Mix up a small test batch if you want and layup some csm on a scrap piece of wood . That way you’ll know what to expect when you get going . It’s really no big deal you’ll do fine ...

 

[froggy1150]

Yes I completely wrapped before installing each piece. It's easier to do on a table horizontal then in the boat vertical. Wrap, install with pb then tab

 

[surban21]

sphelps and froggy 1150: awesome responses and thank you for giving me a hand. So much to learn and I just want to make sure I have a decent grasp before I do something wrong and end up wasting my valuable money.

 

[Scott Danforth]

if your in Florida heat, no need for wax, it will harden on you..... many times while mixing......

you own a boat...... your going to waste money.

 

[surban21]

if your in Florida heat, no need for wax, it will harden on you..... many times while mixing......

you own a boat...... your going to waste money.

I'm in TN but there are times I wish I was in FL. I guess if you give it enough time it will just harden on it's own. It looks like I'll have the time considering the amount of repair I've got to do. Thanks Scott Danforth.

 

[Scott Danforth]

just use un-waxed...... when you get to finishing, the gel will adhere quite well.

 

[AShipShow]

Never buy waxed resin.. the only time you will want to add wax is your top layer of gelcoat if gelcoat is the route you go... if your going paint, then no need for wax at all...

Even if you go the gelcoat route, I would advise using duratec high gloss additive anyways instead of wax, it will give a higher gloss finish, cure without wax, and levels and flows out much better.

 

[surban21]

Thanks for the tip Mad Props. At this point and time of thinking I'm leaning toward gel coating the deck.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I highly agree with the duratec additive.