Considering a 98 Suburban

[64osby]

No big budget here, but still considering a newer TV.

Found a 98 Suburban 1500 for less than 1.6K, 127,000 miles. Exterior appears excellent and rust free by pics.

3 issues were listed by the seller, who is very hard to understand

Shakes at hwy speeds, says it's a u joint. Had custom wheels but now has original tires and wheels back on it.

4wd does not work. ???? Will running it like this tear up the trans?

Heat / AC does not work, says it's the dash switch.

It's about an hour away and was looking for a little advise / info on the stated problems before I go look.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

Shakes at hwy speeds, says it's a u joint.

I wouldn't think so. Most likely a tire balance issue.
He could mean a drive shaft is out of balance... But that usually only happens if the drive shaft throws a weight, or gets bent.

4wd does not work. ???? Will running it like this tear up the trans?

No. May be an issue with the switching motor on the t-case, the clutch system that engages the front axle, or possibly something up inside the t-case.

Heat / AC does not work, says it's the dash switch.

Again, I doubt it. I can't remember if I've ever put a fan switch in any vehicle with a blower issue. It is usually the blower resistor, or the blower motor it's self.

If you go to see it, turn the switch to the high position and see if the blower works. If it works in high, then 99% of the time the blower resistor is the main culprit. If it doesn't work on any speed I would be more likely to suspect the blower motor is an issue, and should be tested. The blower resistor could potentially be an issue as well, but like I said, usually when they let go you still have high.

If you take the plunge and buy this, and find that the resistor, and/or blower motor is bad, make sure you clean out the evaporator drain on the firewall. When these drains get plugged up with leaves, dirt, crap, etc, the heater box will fill with water and is usually at fault for killing off the motor or resistor.

 

[64osby]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

Rogers, Great info thanks.

Any estimates on switching motor, clutch. I've also read about an actuator going bad?

Any estimates on a resistor or blower motor.?

 

[BlkY2k]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

You can change both the motor and resistor yourself. They are easy to get to on your burban. The resistor is about $20 and it is right behind the glove box, unbolt the glove box and its right in front of you. The blower motor is about $50 and it right below the resistor and can be done without removing the glovebox buts its easier to see if you do. The 4x4 is a electronic shift and it could be as simple as a blown fuse. There are 3 for the control module, or it could be the switch. Its hard to tell online, lol If the service 4wd light comes on you could have the codes pulled to find out what it is. Might be worth taking it to a local parts store during your test drive and see if they can pull the codes for ya. G/L

 

[rockyrude]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

I had the heat/ac module on the dash go out on my 95, lost both heat and ac. Easy to replace, tough on the wallet, $170 from GM.

 

[64osby]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

Great info, keep it coming.

Any overall opinions on Burbs besides poor mileage.

 

[rogerwa]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

If the mileage is correct, you are just getting started. I have a 2004, different gen I know, but that is an awesome vehicle. It has over 155k on it and I just returned from the east coast and got 17+ mpg with 6 people and all their luggage. It is very comfortable and can tow anything I need.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

Rogers, Great info thanks.

Any estimates on switching motor, clutch. I've also read about an actuator going bad?

Any estimates on a resistor or blower motor.?

The 4WD system really needs to be evaluated to determine exactly whats up. You don't just want to go throwing parts at it.
Rock auto has an actuator motor listed as cheap as $112 with no core.
Actuators for the front axle are about the same. Again though, best to figure out exactly whats up.

Blower motor at rock auto is as cheap as $35 with the blower wheel.
Resistor is as cheap as $12 bucks.

Any overall opinions on Burbs besides poor mileage.

The bones of them are just fine. The 5.7L was invented right after dirt, so it was long since figured out when it got dropped in the burb, and the 4L60E transmission is just fine.

The most common issues I saw on those were as follows;
-Fuel pumps kicking out at 80-120K (this was across the whole GM line-up)
-Central fuel injection (A.K.A. the spider) springing a leak from it's internal pressure regulator, causing a running condition, and long cranking times to start the engine if it has sat for more then 10 minutes. GM has since revised the design.
-Coolant leaks from the lower intake gaskets. GM used plastic intake gaskets impregnated with rubber around passages. With enough heat cycles the plastic breaks and starts leaking coolant out side and sometimes INSIDE the engine, contaminating the oil. If that's the case, I recommend the Fel-Pro gaskets. They are metal with rubber, and allot sturdier.
-Backing plates for rear brakes (they hold the E-brake shoes) rotten. GM has revised the design for these. Need to pull the axle shafts to replace them though.

 

[Solittle]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

I have a 99 Yukon and had the coolant leak problem mentioned by Rogers.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

overall, not a bad vehicle.

others have commented on the 4-wheel drive and Heat/AC, so I wont.

with all GM trucks of that vintage - in addition to the fuel spider and the manifold gasket issues, the white-metal restrictor fitting in the intake manifold for the heater core will most likely fail (corrosion and fatigue). when it does, it will break off. when that happens, you will be attempted to get the large easy-out looking thing to pull the remnants of the fitting out of the manifold. then you will get upset and pull the manifold. hopefully it has already been replaced.

the other thing that GM trucks of that vintage have in common is the flame-thrower alternator. the CS series of alternators has too small of a bearing on the back side without adequate cooling. when (not if) it fails, the alternator goes up in flames as the rotor contacts the stator.

the aftermarket running boards will cause a rusting problem to your rocker panels, fenders and rear quarters in a few years since your in Michigan (one of the rust-belt states)

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

the white-metal restrictor fitting in the intake manifold for the heater core will most likely fail (corrosion and fatigue). when it does, it will break off. when that happens, you will be attempted to get the large easy-out looking thing to pull the remnants of the fitting out of the manifold. then you will get upset and pull the manifold. hopefully it has already been replaced.

Oh yeah... I remember those SOB's...
One busted off on me. I believe the remedy I used when the easy-out failed was to cut notches in it from the inside out to the threads, with a body saw. Then use a small chisel to gingerly remove each of the quarters.

Glad I wasn't flat rate when I sold that job.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

I broke the intake on 2 of them trying to use the easy-out thingy. good thing my local aluminum welding guy is cheep. I then threw it away and have done a few with a dremel similar to your body saw process.

 

[Boomyal]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

I assume the '98 is the full sequential mult-port fuel injection. That is good, you can get 17 mpg+ on the highway. I would not buy a throttle body injected 'burb. They are absolute dogs with lousy gas mileage.

I have a friend with a '99 half ton. He had lots of front end and transfer case problems well before the mileage your intended 'burb has. IMHO, the Chevy suburban was a poor excuse for automotive quality. Unfortunately there was just nothing else available in its class, in it's day.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

Unfortunately there was just nothing else available in its class, in it's day.

I wouldn't quite say that. There were some close to equals to the Suburban. The Ford Expedition was the equal to the 1500 Suburban. Not quite as long maybe, but was still basically a 1/2 ton truck. The Excursion was the equal to the 2500 Suburban, only the Excursion was built on a 1 Ton chassis, and had 3 flavors of engines VS GM's 2.

 

[Boomyal]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

In 1996 when I bought my '94 2500 boat anchor, there was no Excursion. True, there was the Expedition but it was not long enough for my needs at the time. I really would have liked to have a Ford. My overloaded, overworked, 290k mi E150 has been a stellar and economical vehicle.

Heck, my wife's '88 Grand Marquis had multiport fuel injection, a full 10 years before they put it on the Suburban and then when they did, they acted like they invented it. Another thing that always galled me was that you could not even flash the high beams with the turn indicator stock until sometime around '97 or '98. My 1962 Volkswagen Beetle could do that back when I was a kid!

Oh, and did I mention? The brakes suck! Not only are they marginal in stopping power, the front pads wear out, like clockwork, at 17.5K miles and that is with very moderate driving and loads.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

Personally, I would buy the newer generation which started in 2000. The brakes and suspension on that generation Suburban you are looking at were horrible, especially for the 1/2T. I owned a 1999 3/4T 4WD Suburban and a 2001 3/4T 4WD Suburban. I bought them both new. The difference between the two is night and day. The 2001 was one of the best vehicles I have ever owned other than my Lexus GS.

 

[64osby]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

I appreciate all the comments and will keep looking at alternative to this make and model even though I really like Burbs. Have to see what available for 2000 and up models. I know my brother has one of those models with over 350,000 on the original motor and trans.

I did own an Expedition and found it to tow terrible and the fuel mileage was about 15 as I recall. I think it was the first year of production.

I ended up dumping it for a F250 Ext Cab Diesel. That one ended up w/ 413,000 miles before I sold it.

 

[oregoncruiser]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

I consistantly got 18 on the highway out of my old 97, running 75 MPH. Only problem I had was undersized brakes on the front. It ate them up, easily heated up and warped rotors.

I would not go with the newer generation because I do not like the drivetrain. The 5.3 with 3:73's just do not get the mileage. My 04 with this 5.3 3:73's got about 14MPG on the highway running 75 MPH.

 

[BlkY2k]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

Hey I hear Boomyal has a 94 Burban for sale.

 

[Boomyal]

Re: Considering a 98 Suburban

Hey I hear Boomyal has a 94 Burban for sale.

That you, boyracer? The State is right!