Converting points distributor setup to solid state or electronic

newport dave

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 21, 2004
Messages
458
Re: Converting points distributor setup to solid state or electronic

Sorry, I was told the "fix" gets real hot. Not the Ignitor module. I don't know if that means the diodes or the resistors or both. Again, I have not used the one that I made, so I don't really know.<br /><br />Dave
 

rogerwa

Commander
Joined
Nov 29, 2000
Messages
2,339
Re: Converting points distributor setup to solid state or electronic

You could use higher wattaage resistors if you wish. The diodes should not heat up too much. If you use tiny resistors that are not sized correctly they will get hot. resistors after all drop the voltage across and the byproduct is heat.<br /><br />If you wish you can coat the whole thing in an epoxy coating making it waterproof.<br /><br />I had a ignition module like this in a Honda prelude that went 130K before starting to fail. when they fail they will falter when they get hot. When they cool down they will work. If is sometimes difficult to unserstand if your coil is failing or your module.
 

trog100

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 1, 2004
Messages
751
Re: Converting points distributor setup to solid state or electronic

the weak spot is the points.. if u are prepared to service/change em more often u can run a more powerfull coil.. running the more powerfull coil requires the points to pass more current.. u dont get anything for nothing.. this means they dont last as long.. <br /><br />the more powerfull coils used to be called sports coils.. to take advantage of em u need to open up your plug gap a little.. say 5 thou..<br /><br />if your plugs run dirty they aint running hot enough.. this has nothing to do with the power of the spark..<br /><br />a plug should run hot enough to burn itself clean but not hot enough to cause pre-ignition or premature failure..<br /><br />the problem with a plug is that at low speeds it tends to run too cool and at high speeds it might run too hot.. u can try a hotter heat range plug .. with an ngk plug u would need to move from the normal 5 heat range to number 4..<br /><br />if u do this it will definitely help at lower speeds but at higher speeds it might run too hot.. u would have to make sure it dosnt..<br /><br />try exactly the same plug but in an extended nose type.. these are sposed to have greater heat range tolerance.. they run hotter at low speeds cos the nose is more in the center of the fire and cooler at high speeds cos the nose is more in the cooling intake draft..<br /><br />the nose pokes about 1/8 inch further into the cylinder than a standard nose plug does.. u also need to make sure that there is room and clearance to fit such plugs.. i think in your case there is but it would be up to u to make sure..<br /><br />the correct plug is the one that suits the engine and the way u run it.. looking at the colour and condition of the plug is the way to tell.. <br /><br />bung "sparkplugs" into google and learn about what all those numbers on a sparkplug mean and how to read the condition of a plug by looking at it..<br /><br />pick ngk plugs cos they are a good plug and all the different makes have a different coding system..<br /><br />here is clue with ngk..<br /><br />R= equals inbuilt resistor..<br /><br />5 = the heat range.. the lower the number the hotter the plug runs..<br /><br />a letter tells u long or short reach thread ..<br /><br />another the size of the thread..<br /><br />extended or standard nose..<br /><br />another the type of seat.. washer or taper..<br /><br />there are others and they all mean something.. he he.. i cant remember what thow without looking em up.. he he<br /><br />trog100
 

olbuddyjack

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 23, 2003
Messages
318
Re: Converting points distributor setup to solid state or electronic

Wait a minute, going back to the original post:<br />
I have a 5.7 omc 1983 with prestolite distributor.
1983. Wouldn't that be a stringer drive? And if so it wouldn't have a ESA module like the Cobra. So "diode fix" problem solved. Don't need it.<br />Electronic ignition doesn't give you hotter spark. Its advantage is maintenance reliability and precise spark control. If your looking for hotter spark get a hotter coil and open up your plug gap a little.<br />I think doing the Pertronix upgrade is an excelent idea but I'm with your dad on the other, I hate ABS.
 

trog100

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 1, 2004
Messages
751
Re: Converting points distributor setup to solid state or electronic

and the missing vacumm advance thingy.. on a boat it is missing simple as that.. the car has all the weights and springs and a vacuum advance..<br /><br />the weights and springs advance the timeing according to engine rpm.. the vacuum advance is an economy thing.. boats aint into economy.. he he..<br /><br />carbs on cars tend to be set on the lean side during light throttle driving for gas mileage reasons.. the vacumm advance gives a little extra advance to help compensate for the potentially lean condition during light throttle conditions and improves gas mileage and engine efficiency..<br /><br />the guys who design boat carbs obviously think a boat aint ever used in this way and dont bother with the added complication and cost of fitting a vacuum advance..<br /><br />i recon their logic is bit off but i dont make carbs..<br /><br />trog100
 

olbuddyjack

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 23, 2003
Messages
318
Re: Converting points distributor setup to solid state or electronic

Pretty close trog,<br />The vacuum advance increases timing during light throttle, low load for economy. Its not that boats ain't into economy, they just never operate in that mode, there always under load. You could put a vacuum advance on a boat, it wouldn't hurt anything it just wouldn't do anything.
 

trog100

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 1, 2004
Messages
751
Re: Converting points distributor setup to solid state or electronic

dunno olbuddyjack.. my boat is a river boat and spends most of its life at 1000 to 1500 rpm.. <br /><br />on the town canal i have to go thru first.. its a 4mph speed limt.. fast idle about 800 rpm.. <br /><br />on the river its 6 or 8 depending on up or down current... he he he..<br /><br />i recon thats about as light a load as u can get..<br /><br />i know.. i have the wrong boat.. he he <br /><br />i do give the poor old thing a blast every now and then just to blow the cobwebs out when there aint nobody looking.. whoops..<br /><br />bit sad some of these huge great gas powered american boats at my marina.. next to mine is a nice cruiser incorporated rogue 33 with a pair of 7 litres in it.. with UK gas prices at over 4 quid (nearly 8 US dollars} a gallon needless to say it dont move very often.. the owners just appear every now and then and use it as a fishing platform.. shame really.. its nice boat just sat there ageing away.. <br /><br />trog100
 
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