Converting to Push to Choke Switch

maverick1

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 11, 2003
Messages
34
For those of you that are following, I'm attempting to get an '67 Merc 1100SS running.<br /><br />The person that I got this motor from lost the keys for the switch. I opened up the controls and was horrified to see that 75% of the insulation in the control box was chipped off the wires. I also found that the choke switch (seperate from the key switch) is shot (it doesn't press in at all). <br /><br />The factory switch in it right now has soldered on wires. Being that I want to do this job right, I'm planning on putting in new wires in the controls and replacing the wires that go from the controls to the motor connection. I also perfer the press to choke switches for convenience (of not having to solder wires and easier starting), plus they are easier to get. I bought a Seloc manual for wiring diagrams and came up with this:<br /><br />The press to choke switch has 6 wires (old one has 5 plus a seperate choke). I figured out that I should hook the new switch wires to the factory harness colors in this manor:<br /> <br /> New Switch to Old Harness Colors<br /> Purple to None<br /> Black to Black (Motor + Tach Ground)<br /> Yellow Red to Yellow (Neutral Switch)<br /> Yellow Black to Gray (Motor Choke)<br /> Red to Red (Positive)<br /> Black Yellow to White (constant power/tach power)<br /><br />For anyone that has experience in this, is this correct? Should it work? <br /><br />Also, what gauge wire should I use to make the new harness? I'm thinking 10 gauge.<br /><br />Took me about 2 hours to figure this out. Hopefully this is right.
 

Rovernaut

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 15, 2005
Messages
116
Re: Converting to Push to Choke Switch

Maverick, what brand of switch did you get?<br /> I recently replaced mine on a mid 80s Merc and bought an aftermarket Sierra Brand switch.<br /> It has 6 pins that you use screw your wires to.<br /> They also make a resin filled one with 6 wires hanging out of it.<br />I thought this would be better for me as I could just connect my old wire to them.<br />The shop told me these were for later model Mercs and not compatible, hence I had to go the screw on lug type.<br />Not familar with your wiring on your motor.<br />But the Sierra switch packaging had a basic wiring diagram on it.<br />From memory POS+ bat power went the terminal marked "Bat", then there was an ignition terminal this provises your running power.There is a "choke" terminal, this is fed by from inside the switch when you depress the key. To find your choke wire colour just check the motor end for the wire colour at the choke solenoid.<br />There is a "start" Terninal, this is where your Stater motor Solenoid gets connected to. This terminal will have a short wire coming from it to go to one of your NEUTRAL SAFTEY SWICH terminal, then the other terminal of your NSS will connect to the starter soleniod wire.<br />Lastly there are 2 ternianls left that should have " M" on them, you connect your earth wire to one and the Magneto wire to the other.<br /> When the Igntion switch is in the OFF position, these 2 terminals are connected and will stop your motor.<br />Sorry I am not familiar with your wire colours, but a multi meter should help you nut them out.
 
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