Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

[ThrottleBack]

I'm working on a 57 or 58 (i forget, doesn't matter) CD-15 5 1/2hp.

I sent this to the author of a conversion how to and never heard back so im posting here:

Good evening!

I just read your how to on ditching my junk pressure tank on my 5.5 Johnson:

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repai...el Tanks.htm

why I need to buy a 2 prong connector? I guess my main question is why can't I simply remove the current lines and run three vac lines?

Thank you sir

####

So today I looked at mine. The lines from the plug split, one to the motor (air, will become pulse after i plug one of the intake whatevers) and obviously fuel to the carb. So why do I need a different plug? Seems to me I plug the intake to get the pulse, then run the old air line location to the pulse location on the pump, a line from carb to pump, and a line from tank to pump.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

The newer tanks are only single line, and require a different connector. Your pulse line will go to the pump, not the connector. 1 line will go directly from connector to the IN side of the fuel pump.

By the way, nothing wrong with a pressure tank either when they are properly maintained.

 

[ThrottleBack]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

I understand where al the lines are going.

Ok so I don't need the connector with my setup because my tanks don't require that funky connector. I have two tanks i can use, both can simply accept the line just like slipping it onto the carb or anything else, it's just a nipple. I may even use the pressure tank by plugging the old air port and hooking the fuel draw right to the fuel nipple.

 

[ThrottleBack]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

So far this has been pretty easy. It took all of maybe five minutes to get the carb and manifold off. Mixed up some JB Weld and filled up the channel like all the right ups and youtube vids show to do. The intake and carb are already back on so tomorrow I will finish up the rest and hopefully get it fired up.

 

[Crosbyman]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

did you take out the check valve otherwise you will end up with air presssure to the pump instead of pulsations
i am about to do the same on a 5.5 rude1956

 

[ThrottleBack]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

Yea I removed it

 

[ThrottleBack]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

Do you have to have a prime bulb, or weill it prime just by pulling the starter? I never considered I may need a bulb and I'm tired of yanking on it

 

[nwcove]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

yes , you need a primer bulb and it needs to be pumped up until its hard ( float needle seated in carb). after that dont worry if the bulb doesnt stay hard.

 

[ThrottleBack]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

The only primer bulb I could find local was $40 so I bought a $2 siphon kit. Took the hose off and put the bulb in line on the motor setup. It quickly got fuel into the bowl of the carb.

At first I could not get it to fire. I cleaned the plugs up and sprayed a little starting fluid in each silencer. Then it fired up and idled strong for about a minute (it churned some water in N, I think the shift linkage needs adjusting) then stalled out. Fuel in bowl is still full, and it takes starting fluid to get it to run then it quits.

My kid, while the face plate and all was off, turned the slow/speed shafts and I had no idea where they were after that. I went based on a picture and tried to get it right but im GUESSING they are off. I have never had an engine like this before, so I'm not even sure what I'm supposed to do with them.

Q1: How do I calibrate these again so I know they are correct?

Q2: Where should they be set for cold starting/general running?

 

[nwcove]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

first off....dont use starter fluid!!! and basing the needle settings from a pic? thats a no go also. gently seat both, open the top ( low speed) about 1.5 turns. gently seat the bottom ( high speed needle) and open it about 1 turn. all motors respond differently to needle settings, but that should get it to start. if not , check your plumbing! i am assuming that you properly cleaned and re-kitted the carb???

 

[ThrottleBack]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

What's wrong with starting fluid? That stuff has been around a lot longer then I have and is on the shelves of about every guy in the country lol.

The carb has been rebuilt and is good to go. Fuel flow is good, spark is good, etc etc. I'm assuming after seating them and backing out the suggested turns that would be the lowest speed setting on the top and the richest setting on the bottom? It will have to wait till the morning but I'm betting thats my problem.

Should I pretty much be keeping rich/lean towards the middle, or should I be keeping it on the lean side at idle and casual running and then richen it up as I get higher in the rpms?

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

Straight gas has been around longer than 2 stroke oil, so I guess you don't need to mix gas and oil.

Starting fluid washes the oil of some minor, unimportant internal parts, like bearing and rings. Use a squirt of pre-mix, same result and safer for the motor.

 

[ThrottleBack]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

It never hurt any of my race motors on cars and bikes, but it's an older motor and marine so i will use some of the gas next time.

 

[nwcove]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

What's wrong with starting fluid? That stuff has been around a lot longer then I have and is on the shelves of about every guy in the country lol.

The carb has been rebuilt and is good to go. Fuel flow is good, spark is good, etc etc. I'm assuming after seating them and backing out the suggested turns that would be the lowest speed setting on the top and the richest setting on the bottom? It will have to wait till the morning but I'm betting thats my problem.

Should I pretty much be keeping rich/lean towards the middle, or should I be keeping it on the lean side at idle and casual running and then richen it up as I get higher in the rpms?

jmo, but starter fluid works good for old diesel tractors when its 50 below zero!, there should be absolutely no reason to use it on any healthy ob or any any other good engine!. all you need is good compression, strong timed spark, and something close to the right air fuel ratio to make your motor fire up. then adjust from there.

 

[ThrottleBack]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

For the record I only used the starting fluid figuring it would help get the fuel going, and it did

 

[ThrottleBack]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

It'sd idling now just fine. I noticed the "bulb" i cheaped out on collapsing. I adjusted those needles like you guys said and put the $40 boat bulb setup on there and it fired right up and as long as you leave it on start (or fast) it idles good. The prop is spinning though when it should not be (it's in N) so now im going to google the linkage adjustment procedure and do that. Once the prop is functioning right I should be mostly good to go.

Do I always leave these knobs where they are? Should I adjust them after it starts? I really have 0 clue what to do with them.

 

[ThrottleBack]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

This idiot is good to go! My wife of all people goes "the prop isn't spinning you dumb%%% thats the exhaust."

lol. She lowered it down towards shift slow to a nice easy idle, smiled and put it into gear. It was a cool and shameful moment all at once. The motor is running perfect even out to WOT and ready to fish Wed! I'm confident and worse case I have the trolling motor mounted up front.

Thanks guys

 

[nwcove]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

congrats TB! Keep the fuel mixed at 16:1, carry a few tools in case something comes loose......and enjoy boating!! oh....and make sure to take the wife for troubleshooting purposes! lol

 

[ThrottleBack]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

Yea it's at 16:1. I have a kit in all the vehicles with tools and zip ties and all that good stuff. Here is hoping I don't need them for a while

 

[ThrottleBack]

Re: Converting to the pulse pump, quick ?

It turns out that turbulance in the trash can water was NOT from the exhaust. Today was our first time getting it out on the water. As we floated out away from the ramp (so glad no other boaters there today to see this) I made sure the motor was in N then pulled it. She started instantly and I kicked the choke off but I noticed we were moving. The engine had a very low idle, died, and didn't come back.

So basically in N the prop is spinning, though very little. At home in the trash can it fired right back up. So my theory is that the linkage is a bit off and since the prop is somewhat engaged that the motor can run fine in the can, but struggles and dies on the lake because of all the added load of a prop spinning some on a cold started motor attached to a load.

So now I need to look up how to remove the low end (i assume) and adjust the linkage because I bet once i fix that she is good to go. As a side note my new 30LB MinKota on the bow hauled butt all over this windy lake on high all day long and never killed the cheap walmart car battery i bought for it. The battery only came down 17% and I was shocked how well we crossed the lake and all with it.

So the day wasn't a total bust