Core Plug Fell out of TB.. 225 Johnson !

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Jan 17, 2019
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Just thought i'd share this in the hopes it might help someone, since i've never run across such an issue: My 1993 225 oceanrunner was acting up last season. Would only idle with the choke pushed in, but seemed to be ok once up on plane (2500+ rpms). Bulb wouldn't get hard. This year it started fine, but would bog down unless the choke was on. Even worse than last year! I pulled the carb cover.... oil and gas came flooding out. I mean about 2 cups worth. Couldn't find were it was coming from. I pulled the starboard 3 carbs and rebuilt them. As I was about to take the port 3 carbs off, I noticed a core plug sitting on the bottom of the pan. I couldn't believe it! The damn thing popped out of the throttle body. Punched a new one in and it runs perfectly. Did a compression... all was great. Anyone have this happen to them? I was worried it was running lean, since it was about 5 mph slower on top end too.
 

boobie

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 5, 2009
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20,826
Can you post a pic of where that core plug popped out of ??
 
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Jan 17, 2019
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I cant get to it, but it's the set of core and expansion plugs on the bottom left (this is the port side upper throttle body). It's the smaller core plug that fell out. Unfortunately i thought this fixed my problem, and it didn't. idles fine now, but cuts out and dies unless i bump the key at high speed, and occasionally stalls at low speed. compression is still good. scratching my head.
 

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Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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Does the warning horn function as it should by emitting a small beep when you turn the key to ON? (Horn self test)

Do you receive any other horn warnings while the engine is running?

Does the engine straighten out and run properly if you constantly and steadily pump the fuel primer bulb? (Acting as a manual auxiliary fuel pump)

The "Anti Siphon" valve, located where the fuel hose connects to the fuel tank, may be acting up (or missing). Best to check it as below. Perhaps it's been modified in the past and requires replacing?
********************
(Fuel Anti Siphon Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Many of the later OMC V/6 engines incorporate a fuel restriction warning via a vacuum device attached to the powerhead. If the engine overheats, or if you have a fuel restriction, the warning is the same.... a steady constant beep.

NOTE... Only the V/6 & V/8 engines have the above "Fuel Restriction Warning". The warning horn will not sound on the other models.

The fact that a engine is not overheating, but the warning horn sounds off with a constant steady beep, and that the rpms drop drastically would indicate that the engine is starving for fuel due to a fuel restriction. Check the built in fuel tank where the rubber fuel line attaches to the tank fitting. That fitting is in all probability a "Anti Siphon" valve which is notorious for sticking in a semi closed position. It will be aluminum, about 2" long, and the insides of it will consist of a spring, a ball, and a ball seat. If this valve exists, remove it, knock out those inner components which will convert it to a straight through fitting, then re-install it. Hopefully that cures the problem.

The above procedure will cure a restriction problem with the anti siphon valve as stated. BUT, it may also allow fuel to drain backwards to the fuel tank when the engine is not running (siphoning backwards) due to the fact that the carburetors/fuel pump etc are higher than the fuel tank. This condition is not an absolute as the valves in the fuel primer bulb usually prevent this backwards siphoning problem. However.... if this does take place, the cure would be to install a new anti siphon valve.

NOTE: There has been cases when the output valve in the fuel primer bulb would come apart, and the inner portion of the valve would actually reverse itself and be drawn back into the primer bulb's output valve body. This in effect would create a shut off valve and result in a fuel restriction. If this is the case, you should be able to feel something laying in the bottom of the primer bulb when held horizontally.
********************
 

daselbee

Commander
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
2,765
A core plug falling out will not cause the symptoms you are describing. Re-reading, I see that you have found that out.
One core plug missing in any of the six locations will cause that single cylinder to idle wrong. Probably would'nt even notice it 'cause the other five woud mask the problem. The cylinder would idle very lean, but as soon as RPM got above 2000-2500 or so, the high speed fuel circuits in that carb system would take over, and the engine would run just fine.

Look elsewhere for your problems, but I am glad that plug is back in.
 
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Jan 17, 2019
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946
Thanks much guys. I forgot to mention: that picture i attached shows a zip tie end stuck in the throttle body (top right calibration pocket) and i honestly have no idea how this happened. the motor was running great for 11 years. the only thing that might have happened was when i rebuilt the carbs, i dropped that piece into the throttle body and missed it. could that be the issue? both throttle bodies were taken off last night and are surgically clean. the vacuum switch works great.... i put the fuel line bulb on backwards and sucked the fuel out of the engine... bam ! alarm went off steady and loud. will check the in hull fuel tank and the valve after i put her back together. i do see some plastic ooze coming off the stator coils... not much and the flywheel magnates were replaced by an OMC master tech 3 years ago. could this be a stator or power pack issue? i've heard ignition issues can mimic a fuel issue, but i'm getting well over 130v at idle on all primary leads.
 

Bosunsmate

Admiral
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
6,135
Id take it out and when it plays up shut the motor down and examine your plugs.
My stator oozes and its ok. Your voltage sounds good but who knows what happens at high rpm/temp
check your fuel bulb stays firm with engine off
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
946
Now that you said that about that cylinder running lean... im gonna put a borescope down the starboard cylinder, second one from bottom that correlates to that location were the core plug fell out to see if there is any scoring as that one has the lowest compression... 92-95 lbs. im sure thats plenty of compression to not notice power loss, but it's also the same cylinder so who knows.
 
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