corosion on the distributor post one trip out AQ271 5.7 1989

willscarver

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
43
I am getting a green corosion on my distributor post inside the cap very quickly and it will eventally lead to poor idle and stalling.I have a Pertonics billet distributor and coil.Only two and a half seasons old . I am running it in salt water here in narragansett bay rhode Island and trailering my1990 Carver Montego 2157. Any ideas ? Thanks
 

thefixitchick

Recruit
Joined
May 1, 2013
Messages
1
~~ I have a 2008 Larson 180 LXi 4.3L Volvo Penta I/O. My boat was winterized last September by a local Marine Shop and I bundled it up nicely for winter, leaving the outdrive in the 'up' position.
During the winter, the outdrive ended up in the 'down' position, resting on the driveway. I recently connected my fully charged battery to fix this issue. When the trim was engaged, it sounded like it was working perfectly fine, but the outdrive wouldn't budge. I raised the boat shroud(?) to access the engine compartment and noticed a pink-orange fluid in the bilge area, about 1/2cup. I checked the fluid reservoir and it was between empty and MIN. I added Dexron to the MAX level, and initiated the trim. Again, it sounded like it was working but the outdrive still did not engage. I then manually raised the outdrive, secured it with a rope and ratchet, and took it to my boat guy.
My boat guy told me one of the two cylinders on the outdrive was cracked and needed replacing. I have never jarred or hit anything with the outdrive, but is there not a bit of 'cush' or 'give' to these cylinders to allow them to avoid such a crack if you did hit something with the outdrive? Additionally I have to wonder if the fluid leaked into the bilge area, would that not indicate the issue was with the motor and not the outdrive? Perhaps a loose hose? There was a small spot of what looked like an oily leak at the base of the outdrive on the driveway, but only a tablespoon or so.
It gets better...I was also told my water pump was cracked and needed replacing to the tune of $1400.00. I saw a couple online for about $350.00. I can only assume draining the water pump is a basic, elementary part of boat winterization. I'm no mechanic, but it makes sense if you don't drain the water out of a pump in this part of the world, it's going to freeze and crack. My boat guy was trying to explain this is an issue with this generation of Volvo Penta I/O's, and said he was going to get another under warranty. Correct me if I am wrong, but are water pumps that are cracked in a situation such as this NOT covered under warranty? Correct me again, but does this not seem like an incomplete, poor winterization? I am looking at a huge repair bill here, problems of which I don't believe I contributed to. Am I getting taken to the cleaners by my boat guy? Should my boat guy fess up and take responsibility for something here? I can tell you, once my repairs are done, I'm grabbing my boat and getting the hell outta Dodge! Any advice, information or comments would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance. Happy Boating!
thefixitchick
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,487
I am getting a green corosion on my distributor post inside the cap very quickly and it will eventally lead to poor idle and stalling.I have a Pertonics billet distributor and coil.Only two and a half seasons old . I am running it in salt water here in narragansett bay rhode Island and trailering my1990 Carver Montego 2157. Any ideas ? Thanks

Been There, Done that on my AQ271 as well. tired of keeping two caps on board (one for trip out, one for trip back) with the original distributor (prestolite), the bushings wear and there is then a path for engine vapors directly up to the cap.. swapped out the dizzy for a Mallory and havent looked back.

how is your gasket between the dizzy body and cap?

Salt water vapor probably isnt helping the matter. a bit of salt moisture in the air within the high voltage arcing environment will lead to corrosion quickly. I would call Pertronics since the dizzy is only a few years old.
 

MikDee

Banned
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Messages
4,745
~~ I have a 2008 Larson 180 LXi 4.3L Volvo Penta I/O. My boat was winterized last September by a local Marine Shop and I bundled it up nicely for winter, leaving the outdrive in the 'up' position.
During the winter, the outdrive ended up in the 'down' position, resting on the driveway. I recently connected my fully charged battery to fix this issue. When the trim was engaged, it sounded like it was working perfectly fine, but the outdrive wouldn't budge. I raised the boat shroud(?) to access the engine compartment and noticed a pink-orange fluid in the bilge area, about 1/2cup. I checked the fluid reservoir and it was between empty and MIN. I added Dexron to the MAX level, and initiated the trim. Again, it sounded like it was working but the outdrive still did not engage. I then manually raised the outdrive, secured it with a rope and ratchet, and took it to my boat guy.
My boat guy told me one of the two cylinders on the outdrive was cracked and needed replacing. I have never jarred or hit anything with the outdrive, but is there not a bit of 'cush' or 'give' to these cylinders to allow them to avoid such a crack if you did hit something with the outdrive? Additionally I have to wonder if the fluid leaked into the bilge area, would that not indicate the issue was with the motor and not the outdrive? Perhaps a loose hose? There was a small spot of what looked like an oily leak at the base of the outdrive on the driveway, but only a tablespoon or so.
It gets better...I was also told my water pump was cracked and needed replacing to the tune of $1400.00. I saw a couple online for about $350.00. I can only assume draining the water pump is a basic, elementary part of boat winterization. I'm no mechanic, but it makes sense if you don't drain the water out of a pump in this part of the world, it's going to freeze and crack. My boat guy was trying to explain this is an issue with this generation of Volvo Penta I/O's, and said he was going to get another under warranty. Correct me if I am wrong, but are water pumps that are cracked in a situation such as this NOT covered under warranty? Correct me again, but does this not seem like an incomplete, poor winterization? I am looking at a huge repair bill here, problems of which I don't believe I contributed to. Am I getting taken to the cleaners by my boat guy? Should my boat guy fess up and take responsibility for something here? I can tell you, once my repairs are done, I'm grabbing my boat and getting the hell outta Dodge! Any advice, information or comments would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance. Happy Boating!
thefixitchick

Fixitchick, You need to start your own thread on your issue! You shouldn't hijack someone elses thread, look at the top for the "New Thread" button, and post from there, or your post might never get seen!
 

dypcdiver

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
1,040
No Title

Here is a picture of mine after being stored over the winter, I now pull the cap and clean it several times during the season, for the same reason you mention, by the way mine is a Gi 5.0 moored in the Mediterranean 6 months of the year and stored outside 1 mile inland during the winter.
 

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willscarver

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
43
Hey thanks but beleive it or not begining of season new cap, rotor, wires and plugs. I think I will look at grounds and conections and look at the dizzy gasket maybe Can't hurt right . I tried a very very light coat of dielectric grease . put it on then wiped it off. seemed a little dull on the holeshot coming up on plane. Just can't give up HP!!! I will experiment till I get it to run right . Any ideas out there will help . I may just call PERTRONICS $350 + and it aint right !
 
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