Correct battery selection

[rickasbury]

So I have a 2006 Rinker 270 which has a lot of nice electrical features, namely the fridge and the windlass anchor....the anchor has been a bit spotty here lately when I go to retrieve it. Like yesterday, was out on the lake and it goes out no issues...but when I go to retrieve it, it seems like it losses juice and slows to zip.....let it sit a second and has power and then goes to zip...if I try to continue without a "rest" it pops the breaker. This unit has had little use. So, I'm thinking about my batteries and I'm not an electrical guy....seems to me it would take a lot of juice to pull up this anchor. I always advance the boat so I'm not dragging the boat to the anchor but I have a lot of chain an it's heavy.

The batteries I put in the boat probably about 3 years ago I'm thinking are ok for starting the motor but I'm wondering if they have enough amps to power this windlass- the boat is 30' so that is a lot of wire. They are "marine grade" I bought from one of the auto parts stores. Everything was installed by Rinker- I think when the batteries were fresher they had the juice but possibly getting to the end of their life maybe not so much anymore? I belong to the Rinker forum but I know if I discuss with them, they would be pointing be towards 2 grand worth of the best batteries on the planet as most of them do not have any issue spending that kind of money...so how do I determine how much amps I need in a battery? I have two, one is a starter and the other a "house", neither are a deep cycle type battery as far as I know....but I don't know much!

 

[dingbat]

The only way to properly size batteries is to add up your total load and usage and run the calculations.

Having said that, you can never have too much battery reserve. Just buy the largest battery (physical size) that will fit in the space allotted and the largest capacity batteries you can/ want to afford.

A Deep Cycle battery, preferably AGM battery will give you the best bang for the $$$$.

A good (re)charging system (battery charger) is paramount to battery life.

 

[GA_Boater]

In complete agreement with Racer on sizing batteries to match the load, but why are you looking at batteries if the windlass is popping the breaker?

I would be looking at seeing the windlass if needs lubrication and check out the motor. It sounds like the motor is overheating or dragging for some reason causing excess current draw leading to the popped breaker. It would also pay to check the electrical connections, both power and ground, for corrosion which can lead to overdrawn current.

 

[rickasbury]

The motor seems to be sealed up, I don't see anywhere to lubricate the motor...checking connections good plan. I just thought Friday it worked, sunday did not...and this has happened before so I was jumping to different charge levels..they also do not hold a charge well...like something is drawing on them. I have everything shut down I'm aware of...battery switching, helm panel switch and make sure the radio is off...

 

[Tassie 1]

We have a 30 ft flybridge cruiser with twin 5.7 mercruisers,
shaft drive though,
1000 W winch, TV, fridge, all the lights, assorted gadgets/ widjets, 2 chartplotters. 2 VHF's. etc etc

3 batteries,
Just changed the 750 CCA start batteries after about 5 yrs,
jury is still out about changing the 1100 CCA deep cycle battery,
it's on the charger in the shed atm...we shall see,

Anywho, whenever we use the winch we ALWAYS have the motors running as you can see the volts drain away if you don't,
Boat has a 6K VSR charging system ( price PO paid when fitted )
Don't know how many watts etc etc

Saltwater only boat,
just sayin'