Re: Correct Gear Case Lube?
Forget all of the nonsense about the motor being too old to be of value. I have the Johnson version of your motor and use it extensively. It is very reliable and I am completely happy with it.
BTW, when I first bought it and took it to my local OMC/BRP dealer for some refurbishment, one of the head mechanics gave me the same line. The owner of the shop is a friend, however, so the "I don't want to work on it" business didn't get too far. That same mechanic has chewed up a lot of "crow" in the four years that have passed, thus far.
What you need is the modern equivalent of "Type C" gear oil. That happens to be "BRP Premium Blend" gear oil. If you can find another Type C equivalent, it should be fine, as long as it is a name brand product that can have confidence in. Also, I just called my local BRP/OMC dealer to confirm this - you can run Dextron III automatic transmission fluid in your gearbox.
The reason for using Type C equivalents, is because they act as a hydraulic fluid, hence the description of your gearcase as "hydro-electric." As was previously pointed out, your motor is that last of the hydro-elect shift units. Starting with 1973, they went to hydro-mechanical. The difference between the two, is the manner in which the poppet valves in the gearcase are controlled. In yours, electric solenoids are used, in the hydro-mechanical units, the valves are mechanically controlled.
The first thing you need to do, is to get your hands on a factory service manual. Try here at iboats first, then EBay, Ken Cook, etc., if you can't find one here. Don't waste your money on Clymer, Seloc, etc. Don't fool with the manuals on CD that you see all over the internet either - most of them are little more than bootlegged versions of the Clymer and/or Seloc manuals anyway.
You will not need a parts book, because
www.shop.evinrude.com has the info (look for "parts" tab on the home page) and diagrams.
I have to get to some other things now, but will post again this evening with some info that will help you evaluate the motor, before spending money on it. In the meantime, start with a compression test. You motor would have had values of about 150 psi when new and if the powerhead is mechanically sound, may still have very high numbers. Mine was in the middle to high 140s, when I bought it.
Also, and before I forget, buy a pair of new crush washers for the vent and drain plugs, when you obtain the gear oil. Those plugs are the most common source of water in the oil, because people often don't replace them every time they remove a plug.
???
