Couple of issues

Homebrew72

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Jun 20, 2014
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I'm trying to get my 89 bayliner going but I am having so trouble. First in neutral at ideal engine will run good but every once in a while will miss and almost stall out. If I give it a little gas it'll run with no issues. As soon as I put it in gear it dies. Is this likely a timing issue? Or is something else going on. Second part, the rubber seal that seals the lower cowling I assume is bad. I pulled the engine cover off while the boat was in the water. The water was equal with the sea water. This area should be dry correct? Any help is appreciated
 

Jiggz

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Oct 23, 2009
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Can you post what kind of engine we are talking about? I understand the boat is an 89 Bayliner, but what horsepower and year is the engine? Is it a Force? Have you worked on outboard engines before . . . this is just so we can determine the level of experience you have to determine the level of conversation.
 

jerryjerry05

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The miss at idle is a carb adjustment problem.
The water will find a way in.
That's normal.

There is an air screw on the carb(s)
Turn it in till it just bottoms out(GENTLY)
Then out 1 and 1/8th turn.

The 85 should be set at 1 turn out and left(factory spec).
Mine run great at that setting.

The 50 and 125/120 need to be set differently.
You have a manual?
 

Frank Acampora

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Before you start messing around with carbs and timing do these things: First remove and clean or replace the spark plugs.

If you have a tachometer set the idle speed to 700-750 RPM In the water, in forward gear. Idle speed is set using the idle stop screw at the bottom of the timing tower behind the lower carb. Loosen the locknut and screw in the screw to increase idle speed. The engine should "clunk" going into gear but should not make excessive noise or a crashing/clashing sound.

The rubber gasket is primarily a sound attenuator. As jerry said, water will find a way in--it is normal and will find its way out while on plane.
 
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Homebrew72

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Sorry, the specifics would help huh. Its a force 85. I have never messed with out boards before. I pulled the plugs to check them, there was some crap on the end but it just wiped off. I tightened the air screws on the carbs then backed them off 1.5 turns.
 

Jiggz

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First thing to do is try to increase the idle rpm using the idle screw as mentioned earlier. Using a flat tip screw driver turn it half a turn at a time (you will need a 7/16" open wrench to loosen the lock nut on it) clockwise (CW) while listening for increase in engine rpm or watch the tach if you have one. You do not want to go too high for it will affect you gear shifting very badly. You just want it enough to stabilize the engine. If the engine stabilizes, check for misfiring but doing the plug wire pull. When you do the plug wire pull you have to do it rather quickly to avoid damaging the CDM (capacitor discharge module) and listen to change in engine rpm. If the engine rpm slows down that cylinder is firing. If the engine rpm doesn't change that cylinder is not firing. If the engine is firing on all cylinders then it means you just needed to increase idle settings. But there is a reason why you need to increase idle settings, i.e. high carbon build up in the cylinders, broken reed, carb's needs cleaning or because you have exhaust leak inside the cowling. Exhaust leak can easily be diagnosed usually while in the water remove the top cover or cowling and ran the engine. Does the engine idle smoothly compare to when the cover is on? If yes, you most likely have exhaust leaks and you should be able to see it if you look around.
 

Homebrew72

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The engine tone sounded the same with the cowling on/off on the water. The shudder isn't consistent, happens about once every 15 secs or so. Thinking I should swap out the plugs just for good insurance.
 

Homebrew72

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Ok so I got new plugs and put them in. I took off the air intake to adjust the wire screw, when I did I noticed quite a bit of fuel in it. It looks like the carbs are burping fuel. What would cause this?
 

jerryjerry05

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IF??? The carbs are "burping fuel"
How much? Take the carbs off and look inside at the reeds.
Most 2 strokers spit a bit of fuel.
The intake has a fitting/ hose at the bottom that's supposed to recirculate the unburned fuel.

Do a compression test.
 

Homebrew72

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Jun 20, 2014
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I took the intake cover off the carbs, seemed like just a little bit of fuel came out at start up. There was a good amount though in the bottom of the intake. Is that recirc line vacuum or gravity?? I did a compression test and had 120/110/120.
 

Homebrew72

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Went back to the water to test it out again. I got it to idle and stay running in gear. Tried taking it out, as soon as I gave it throttle the engine started to come up on power but would die. The engine was also smoking a good bit from the exhaust. I don't know what else to do
 

jerryjerry05

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The smoking is normal. If it's smoke. Maybe steam?
It's built up oil in the system and will burn off as you run.

Test the overheat buzzer.
Sounds like you might be getting hot(excessive smoke or steam).
Key on, ground the orange lead to the block.
The buzzer should sound off.

The fuel system: change all the hoses, the squeezie and remove any connectors.
Rebuild the fuel pump.
Make sure the tank vent is open and the hose not clogged.
 

Homebrew72

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Jun 20, 2014
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So I took the fuel pump apart / split it in half anyways, the diaphragm was intact and looked to be in good shape. I screwed up the gasket taking it apart so I ordered a new gasket and diaphragm. As long as the diaphragm was good the pump itself should of been good right? I'm going to put the pump back together and try it again, just not feeling confident that the pump is my issue.
 
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