Crank no start 4.3, wiring diagram?

[Dlsauder]

1st time posting. I just bought from an auction 2013 Regal 190, 4.3GI-200-R Serial 40869322. 76 hrs. Auction replaced ignition switch and said it ran & did compression test. I have a crank no start condition, no spark, I have power to both wires (pink & Yellow) at the coil when key is cycled for a few seconds. No 12V when cranking. I'm trying to find some guidance or wiring diagram. Lanyard connected Thanks, DS

 

[alldodge]

There is a digit missing from the serial number I think

Auction replaced ignition switch and said it ran & did compression test.

My guess is the auction lied

have power to both wires (pink & Yellow) at the coil when key is cycled for a few seconds. No 12V when cranking

The power should not go away. Power is supplied by the ignition relay and should stay ON. Do you hear the fuel pump turn ON for a few seconds when key id turned to ON?

Can you get the motor scanned for codes?

 

[Dlsauder]

There is a digit missing from the serial number I think


My guess is the auction lied



The power should not go away. Power is supplied by the ignition relay and should stay ON. Do you hear the fuel pump turn ON for a few seconds when key id turned to ON?

Can you get the motor scanned for codes?

Yes fuel pump runs for a few seconds. I could get is scanned but would rather diag myself.

 

[alldodge]

S/N still not come up, oh well. I think yours should be similar to the GXI with multi port injection.
Does it have the flat style distributor cap?
When motor is cranking can you see at least 300 rpm on the tach?

There is at least 2 if not 3 relays relays (square type) on the motor. If only 2 relays pull and swap their locations. If 3 need to make sure to swap the ignition relay with one of the others. The ignition relay has the Pink/yel (could be pink/white) wire on it

Diagnosing your self still is good, but do to know if the ECM has any codes. Codes can tell what is wrong

Anyway we will proceed with what we can find

 

[Dlsauder]

S/N still not come up, oh well. I think yours should be similar to the GXI with multi port injection.
Does it have the flat style distributor cap?
When motor is cranking can you see at least 300 rpm on the tach?

There is at least 2 if not 3 relays relays (square type) on the motor. If only 2 relays pull and swap their locations. If 3 need to make sure to swap the ignition relay with one of the others. The ignition relay has the Pink/yel (could be pink/white) wire on it

Diagnosing your self still is good, but do to know if the ECM has any codes. Codes can tell what is wrong

Anyway we will proceed with what we can find

I do not have RPM’s when cranking. I had swapped relays. Thanks, yeah I am confused the the S/N is unknow on VP site

 

[alldodge]

Need to find out why 12V turns off at the coil during cranking
This is the GI with TBI but relays for ignition relay is the same


Does it have the flat style distributor cap?

 

[Dlsauder]

Yes distributor is like that just a V6 one

 

[Dlsauder]

Yes distributor is like that just a V6 one

I ordered a SELOC manual, hopefully it will have correct wiring diagrams.

 

[jerryjerry05]

You need a factory manual, Seloc probably won't
have what you need.
Try opening this, it has Volvo links.

Boatinfo - The library, containing manuals, brochures and other technical documents from the last hundred years!

The library on boatinfo, containing marine manuals, brochures and other boat related documents for Evinrude, Honda, Johnson, Mariner, Mercruiser, Mercury, Nissan, OMC, Perkins, Suzuki, Volvo Penta, Yamaha and Yanmar

www.boatinfo.no

Boatinfo - Volvo Penta 4.3 A, B, C, D, E Engine Service Manual

www.boatinfo.no

 

[QBhoy]

Sounds like the ignition sensor (what we call it here) normally, but if you have that spider cap diz like the gxi and MPi...probably not be the issue.
so are you getting literally no Volts at all or is there a little voltage ? I know the gxi and mpi won’t fire if the battery is anything less than perfect. The cranking can be healthy seeming, but can also take power away from the ignition on these...enough to make it not even try to fire up whilst cranking. I’d check the ignition wire/sensor if you have one.

 

[Dlsauder]

After getting very frustrated trying to find wiring diagrams we finally figured it out. The boat had a new ignition switch that a marine service department installed because there was no key. I assumed it was good as it cranked the motor over fine never hiccupped etc....but after testing voltage coming out of the switch the S terminal on the ignition switch was only getting 10.4V, not enough to fire the ecm I assume and coil . With a power probe sending 12V to the S terminal it starts right up. What a pain, but at least it runs, never assume even if its a new part.

 

[QBhoy]

After getting very frustrated trying to find wiring diagrams we finally figured it out. The boat had a new ignition switch that a marine service department installed because there was no key. I assumed it was good as it cranked the motor over fine never hiccupped etc....but after testing voltage coming out of the switch the S terminal on the ignition switch was only getting 10.4V, not enough to fire the ecm I assume and coil . With a power probe sending 12V to the S terminal it starts right up. What a pain, but at least it runs, never assume even if its a new part.

See what I said above about the battery. Very common. Glad you’re on the right track