Cranks but no start

1978Galaxie

Cadet
Joined
Nov 25, 2017
Messages
17
I cleaned out the carburetors two months ago, it gets fuel up to all three carburetors, has spark, and gets 120 psi of compression all across the board. The timing marks line up with the timing tab and the t on the distributer lines up with the flywheel, and the #1 cylinder is at tdc. I took a dmm, and with the ignition on, touched the red lead to the white wire on the distributer, and black lead to ground. At wot, I get 12 volts when the flywheel is at the 30 degree mark, and it goes to 0 well after tdc. What does that mean?
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,763
What are you working on?

From what you describe, it could be a trip-carb 283 in a '64 Chevy. ???
 

1978Galaxie

Cadet
Joined
Nov 25, 2017
Messages
17
Well it’s a 1979 75 hp Chrysler outboard motor. Turns out that my timing wasn’t advanced enough. Basically my old motor threw a rod, bought an outboard from a guy that couldn’t get to run but had good compression, transferred all my electronic and fuel systems, and the gap between the two plastic pieces for the mechanical advance to the distributer is supposed to be 5/8 inch. Set them there and now it fires right up.
 

1978Galaxie

Cadet
Joined
Nov 25, 2017
Messages
17
Now it doesn’t start again. Went to go make sure it starts before getting it out on the lake, and it just cranks. Full choke, throttle open, and it doesn’t even try to run. I checked the spark with a tester, and set the gap to 7/16 inch, but it isn’t like consistently sparking as you turn it over with the starter. Like, you see the spark jumping every half second, and then it goes like 4 seconds without sparking if that makes sense.
 

Redbarron%%

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 7, 2017
Messages
479
Unplug the black and yellow wire to the RPM limiter. This is the kill wire from the RPM limiter (if it has one).
Also check the kill wiring as any ground on it will kill the ignition.
Also as Jerry says check the TDC timing as well to make sure that you don;t have a sheared key.
The sheared key will not keep the ignition from firing, it will just fire at the wrong place.
I don't know if the RPM limiter is on the 79 motor or the color of the wires as all of my experience is with mid 90's Force / Mercury Sport Jets.
Still check for loose wires and frayed insulation etc.
 

1978Galaxie

Cadet
Joined
Nov 25, 2017
Messages
17
So a squirted fuel down the carburetors, and it fires right up, I pulled the fuel line to the top carburetor off, and I squeezed the bulb and fuel comes out. I rebuilt the carburetors again, and still no start. This time it had no spark. I went searching for an ignition coil to find that they are hard to come by. So I put the old coil back on, and hooked a spark tester directly up to it. It was blue and you can hear it snap. I tested it at the wire, and it was orange, but you could still hear it snap. I squirted gas down the carburetors, and it started. So I think I have 2 problems, an intermittent no spark, and a fuel delivery problem. The bulb stays firm even after cranking it, and the diaphragm for the fuel pump was recently done. Any ideas?
 

Redbarron%%

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 7, 2017
Messages
479
Perhaps the fuel inlet needles are not feeding fuel to the carbs?
When you pulled the carbs for the recleaning did fuel run out of the bowls?
The idle circuits may be clogged or there might not be fuel in the carbs.
If it starts right up when you squirt some fuel in does it keep running or run briefly and then quit?
That would seem to indicate that the carbs are not feeding fuel it it quits.
If the bulb stays firm then there might not be fuel getting into the bowls through the needle valves. Perhaps is that is the case the floats might not be correct.
 

1978Galaxie

Cadet
Joined
Nov 25, 2017
Messages
17
So fuel came running out of all 3 carbs when I pulled them out, And it dies several seconds after squirting it with gas. I didn’t set the floats, but it ran just fine before where the floats were at, and I haven’t moved them at all. I sprayed carb cleaner through the fuel inlet, where the needle and seat goes, and watched it come out the other side, and blew through it with compressed air. I sprayed carb cleaner through the jet, and it came through the other side, then there’s like this smaller straw inside the jet, the straw was almost the same diameter as the straw on the carb cleaner can was, and saw carb cleaner spray through this small on the top of the carb, then blew compressed air through it. Did this with all 3 carburetors.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,089
You are holding the key in when choking the motor? Just a quick push doesn't work
when choking the motor.

Sometimes in the needle/seat.
The needle sticks in the seat.
Depending on the carb, one of the parts has rubber in it.
Either the needle has a rubber tip or the seat has a rubber seat.
Some cleaners and fuel additives can make the rubber in the seat swell and
not allow fuel through.

Other times the floats just stick??

One trick I learned: tilt the motor all the way up.
Turn the key and push in the choke like your going to start the motor.
Turn it over until it starts, coughs, stutters.
Then drop the motor and turn the key without the choke.
That might make it start???
 
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