damage from running with trim up?

[gumbyaz]

With warmer water, I pulled my first adult on a tube this weekend behind my 4.3 with an SX-A drive. Problem was that somehow while getting ready, the trim must have gotten accidentally bumped (really not sure how??) and when I went to start pulling him the drive was trimmed up really high. The boat didn't get moving well, and the bow of course was about 6 feet up in the air. Must have looked like a real rookie....which I am. It took me about 30-60 seconds of trying though before I gave up and realized there was something else wrong and looked at my trim gauge. I put the drive down so fast I don't even remember how high up it was, but RPM's hit about 2500-3000 at peak.

Could I have done any severe damage this way? If I pull my outdrive back off (I just had it off about 3 weeks ago to replace the 2008 vintage bellows from previous owner), what am I looking for? slop in joints? slop in gimbal bearing? slop in input bearing for the outdrive?

 

[Scott Danforth]

you didnt do the u-joints any good.

monitor the drive. pull at end of season to check u-joints and gimble (annual inspection)

 

[kmarine]

monitor u joints for noise especially when in sharp turns. hopefuly they are ok.

 

[gumbyaz]

Thanks. I looked at the drive again tonight in the garage and played with the trim to try to recall exactly where it was. Pretty sure that I only had it around a 20-25 degree angle at most based on what little I recall of the gauge while in the moment. The steering would have been near straight, so my logic is that the overall stress on the joints probably wasn't that much worse than a hard turn.

I will just listen to it for now and hope it doesn't start growling. Did I read that SP-A u-joints are only replaceable as a full shaft unit? Or can just the joints themselves be changed if it does need them?

 

[Scott Danforth]

the SP-A/DP-A/290/etc. can have the u-joints replace by themselves. do a search on iBoats and teh GKN part number is listed. you do need an upper seal kit and a crush sleave as the gear box needs to come apart

 

[BRICH1260]

Like others have said, you probably didn't do the unit any good, but may not have killed it at the same time. Monitor for the rest of the season and plan on replacing after season. If you know how to press out U joints, you can replace only them. I`ve done it, kinda tricky, but can be done.

 

[gumbyaz]

I searched for a couple iterations of u-joints, SX-A, and GKN, but all I seemed to come up with was u-joints for an SX-M. Are they the same between the SX-A and SX-M? I looked at pictures from when I had the drive off and confirmed that I can read "GKN" cast into the side of one of the yokes, but don't have a picture where I can see any casting numbers on the spiders themselves.

If you know how to press out U joints, you can replace only them. I`ve done it, kinda tricky, but can be done.

Scott seems to indicate that I need to pull the u-joint assembly out of the drive (guessing based on parts you mention) to get the joints out. But Brich indicates otherwise. I changed u-joints in the front shafts of my old YJ jeep years ago, used a vise and some sockets to press them out. Other than akwardness of maneuvering a vise or heavy clamp onto the u-joints while on the drive, looks like it is feasible without pulling the assembly out? Maybe I am missing something. I will read the boatinfo manual this weekend too and see if that sheds some light....

 

[dypcdiver]

I have replaced my "U" joints without removing the input end. I made up 2 bits of 3/8" steel one with a hole the size of the UJ cap and the other with a 1/2" threaded hole for a bolt to press out the cap. I used some threaded bar to hold the 2 bits of steel around the UJ's. I then took the rest of the unit into my workshop and replaced the others in the vice.
However I must add that this was on a SX-M outdrive, but I doubt there is much difference.

 

[gumbyaz]

Makes sense - seems feasible without pulling the whole shaft out. I like the idea of making a little "jig" to press the first cap out. Nice suggestion dypcdiver.

I think I found the answer to my question about SX-M and SX-A sharing the same U-joint P/N - simple as looking up a parts breakout for the SX-M. Since both use the same assembly number 3860842 I think it is safe to say that they are same.

Thanks all for the input.

 

[dypcdiver]

No Title

Thought I'd add a photo, the plate needs to be waisted to clear the bearing carrier and the yoke of the UJ.

 

[BRICH1260]

If you can get the u joints out in one piece, you can take the unit to an auto parts store and have them measured. They can then order you new ones. Obviously they will not be VP, but they should work.