Dang. Water in the bellows. Suggestions and tools?

st0n3

Cadet
Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
17
We took the boat out on the water yesterday for the first time this year. This morning I went out to the driveway to check the stern drive and saw mysterious water on the exhaust bellows. Probing the U-Joint bellows was rewarded with a squirt of water. On closer inspection, a tear was found and the bellows were full of water. I just cut a hole in the bellows to drain them.

Engine: Volvo 8.1 Gi-F (2004-2005)
Transom: SX-MHP
Drive: DP-SM 1.78 (M22)

We take our boat to Lake Powell each year and camp on the lake in some very remote places, so reliability is extremely important to us. A breakdown 30 miles from the nearest marina blows the vacation and the wallet. Thus, if there is any significant chance of a part failing on the boat, it is replaced. OEM parts are almost exclusively used. I have done almost all of the mechanical work on the boat since we bought it in 2005 and plan to do all of this work myself.

The plan at this point is to pull the stern drive off and see the damage. The gimbal bearing, rear seal and bellows are likely to be replaced (along with necessary o-rings, nylon washers, etc. per the Volvo service manual). The U-Joint may also be replaced depending on what it looks like. Of course we will do an alignment too.

Q1) Are there any other parts that should be carefully inspected/replaced in this circumstance (i.e. could have been damaged by the water, or are simply easy to replace with the Pivot Housing removed)?


I am a big believer in buying the best tools for the job at hand (within reason) so that the project goes as smoothly as possible. I have all the tools necessary for the job except a puller/installer for the gimbal bearing and rear seal. They have been replaced once before on this boat, but this will be the first time I have done it myself. Looking at a lot of videos and other info on the web led me to this tool:

MBS Manufacturing Gimbal Bearing Installer Puller + Align tool
http://mbsmfg.com/alpha-bravo-omc-volvo-gimbal-bearing-installer-puller-align-tool-mercruiser/
https://youtu.be/HoJQ002CUEY (video of tool in use)

Q2) Is this the best tool to get, or are the better ones for the job of removing/installing the gimbal bearing and rear seal?


We have a family reunion in 2-1/2 weeks on the lake, so I will have to get cracking to get all the parts ordered and replaced in time.

Thanks in advance for your sage words of advice.

- Brad
 

BRICH1260

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
1,390
The tool shown will do the job just fine. Obviously you will need to build a stand cart and pull the drive. You will definitely need to order a new gimbal bearing and depending on the condition of the U joints and corrosion present, may need to replace the U joints also. In addition, obviously the drive bellows will need to be replaced. It`s not that difficult to do yourself but having a drive manual will help.
 

st0n3

Cadet
Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
17
Thanks for the speedy reply, BRICH1260!

I have the Volvo service manuals and follow them religiously, but I am not a professional mechanic. Also, I have pulled the stern drive a number of times using a cart that I built out of a transmission jack from Harbor Freight. The best part about using the transmission jack is that it is adjustable not only up and down (hydralic), but also front/back and left/right (adjustment bolts). Probably ought to post pictures someday.

UPDATE:
It looks like the leak occurred before winterizing because the U-Joint is really rusty. It will be replaced along with the gimbal bearing and new bellows.

This is my first time replacing a U-Joint, so any suggestions would be VERY much appreciated. It is very important that the boat function reliably and I really don't want to dig into the pinion gear assembly again anytime soon. "Do it right the first time".

Researching various forums and YouTube videos led to the following info and questions.

Here are the installation instructions:
Volvo Penta Universal Joint Kit - Installation Instructions (3860842)

... and the exploded parts diagram:
DP-SM Outdrive - U-Joint and Bearing Carrier

The U-Joint Kit comes with the pinion gear retainer screw (#4 on parts diagram) and crush sleeve (#5). Already ordered.

The existing pinion carrier oil seal (#8) looks fine. No leakage. Just need to replace the U-Joint. I have already removed the pinion carrier assembly with the U-Joint attached, so no help needed there.

I will measure the running torque before disassembly to establish a base-line using a precision 0-30 in.lb. torque gauge. The proper specs are 9 - 14 in.lb.

Wondering if I can just replace the U-Joint by:
1. Remove the pinion gear retainer screw.
2. Pull out the U-Joint (best method? is it tight?).
3. Put in the new U-Joint.
4. Replace the pinion gear retainer screw, tightening it carefully to achieve the base-line running torque.


Q1) How important is it to press out the bearings from the pinion bearing carrier and install a new crush sleeve?


The instructions call for four Volvo special tools to remove and then reinstall the bearings after replacing the crush sleeve. Haven't been able to locate these specific tools in stock at one place yet and they are a bit pricey. There probably is a good way to do this work without the Volvo tools that are well known to a Volvo Jedi. Humble Padwan would love to learn the ways of the Jedi. :^)


Q2) If the crush sleeve should be replaced, then what is the best method to do so (i.e. correct tools to use to remove the bearings and how to best use them)?


Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom as I head out into uncharted waters.

- Brad
 

st0n3

Cadet
Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
17
Back on topic!

Everybody likes to see gory pictures, right? Here are some photos the problem.

The bellows were needing to be replaced and should have probably been replaced early last season or even the season before. However, the failure point is strange. The failure occurred at about the 9 o'clock position on the port side.

In this photo, note how the failure occurred in an area that looks worn away. Perhaps the U-Joint was rubbing on the inside of the bellows?

uc



Here is the outside. Note the cracking which would indicate worn rubber needing to be replaced; however, the cracking in the rubber was far worse right around the failure point on the port side and didn't extend around the ring. The rest of the bellows showed minimal cracking.

uc



And the rusted out gimbal bearing...

uc



All the replacement parts have been ordered, so hopefully we will be back on the water in a couple of weeks. It would be faster, but gotta go to work during the day. ;)

- Brad
 
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