Deck and sidewall paint options.

[mutron77]

Hello,<br /><br />Just nearing completion of a complete redeck, crappy lounge seat ripout, carpet extraction, gonna make this a sprayout boat, project. New deck stringers, braces, etc (oh! the rot!). And all glued, biaxial taped and Very encapsulated with 4 gallons of Epoxy resin. Now I want to paint the deck and inside areas with some sort of barrier coat with an additive to make the deck non-skid.<br />What's a good way to go with this? Most paints I am seeing are for use on hulls. <br /><br />H90

 

[JasonJ]

Re: Deck and sidewall paint options.

Evercoat No-Skid, it is rubberized with traction niblets in it, you apply a couple coats with a brush, done deal. I have in in my project, it has worn good, it waterproof, and only about $40 a gallon. It only took a gallon for my floor, it may take a couple gallons for what you want to do. Good luck...

 

[CCrew]

Re: Deck and sidewall paint options.

Just 4 gallons of epoxy?? Geez, must be nice.. I'm figuring 16 at completion of mine..<br /><br />-Roger

 

[mutron77]

Re: Deck and sidewall paint options.

16!! You must have a bigger boat! Well I have a 17 foot Chriscraft runabout.<br />I estimate I'll have used about 80 feet of Biaxial tape and one 50" X 9ft piece of 7 oz cloth to cover the entire deck out to the seems. Used alot of epoxy saturating all the new wood, mixed some with 404 high density filler for glueing and filling. Thinned some out (gently) with a heat gun and guzzled it into a few rotted areas. (had to pack those beams in ice they got so hot!) I think I may have to have a fifth gallon on hand as I near the finish line.<br />Hey Jason, checked out the "Skanky Beast" Wow, I never realized how easy I had it with my little V-hull! Great job and a really nice boat! I think I'm gonna look up that Evercoat. I live in AZ, I wonder if it would get real hot or gooey in the sun? Does it come in different colors?<br /><br />Larry

 

[ThomWV]

Re: Deck and sidewall paint options.

Horse,<br /><br />I have next to no experience with this but I just thought it might be of some value to you to know what doesn't work particularly well.<br /><br />I had to replace a small section of my deck (delamination between the coreing and the glass caused by an unsealed access port) and I simply used an encaplsulated section of 3/4" plywood cut to size and bolted down. This section of deck covers my fuel tank so I wanted it removable. <br /><br />At any rate I used Interlux Brightsides and mixed in with their non-skid powder. The powder comes in two grit sizes, I chose the fine, and that was probably a mistake. At any rate I primed the predrilled and encapsulated section and then painted with with straight Brightsides, I beleive I put on 2 coats and tipped the outside edge of the second coat. Then I masked off the edges for a border effect. That was followed by a rolled on coat of the Brightsides with the non-skid compound mixed in at the recommended rate. I also took more of the non-skid and put it in a salt shaker (someone had recommended this prodedure on some forum or another and I tried it). As soon as the paint was spread I took the salt shaker and from several feet above (to even out the coverage) I added additional non-skid material on top. Not much, just a little. I did the same thing with a second coat.<br /><br />After giving it a couple of days to dry I pulled the masking tape. The effect was really beautiful and the non-skid surface was about equal to an 80 grit open sand paper. The smooth and shiny border (about 1" wide) really set it off and I was very pleased.<br /><br />A year later I had chipping on the edges although the centersection held up well. The nonskid section was almost impossible to clean and soon took on a dingy color that I was never able to clean no matter how harsh the stuff I used on it was. I am sure that was the result of the extra sprinkeling of non-skid material on top of the paint. It left an unsealed surface that just loved dirt. <br /><br />Almost all of the chipping came at the edges and I have to assume that it was caused by two things. The first was probably poor preparation on my part. I had done the wood soaking with epoxy and I probably was not agressive enough in sanding to prepare the surface for paint when I got out to the edges. The second thing is that I think the paint itself may have been a bit on the brittle side and the compression of the wood where it is bolted down (I used quarter inch machine screws in finish washers but with flat washers under them. The flat washers fit inside the dome of the finish washer and simply spread the load, they can't be seen and they don't hold the screwheads up any higher than they would otherwise have been. At any rate there was still some compression of the wood and that is where the cracks in the finish started and then peeled to some degree. I think that if I had put the deck section down as soon as the section could be handeled - say 5 or 6 hours after painting - that the paint would still have been flexible enough that it would have conformed to any compression of the wood. Just speculation of course and if anyone would like to comment on that I would be very interested in their comments.<br /><br />I'm going to be refinishing it again next year when the topsides of my boat will be painted (Awlgrip) so I am very interested in the discussion you've started here.<br /><br />Here's a picture of my deck section. The replaced part is the center section where the chair is bolted down. You can see the hold-down machine screws about every foot and a half or so around the edges:<br />

 

[JasonJ]

Re: Deck and sidewall paint options.

Horse, this last summer I was out on the water during the rare near 100 degree temps we had (usually we stay in the high 80s), and the material never got gooey at all. Because I used gray, it did get a little hot on bare feet, but since this is mainly a fishing rig, I was not concerned with that. Sandals fixed that problem. It does come in other colors, but I chose gray mostly because of the problem Thom had with his getting dingy and being hard to clean. Other than a quick shop-vac once in awhile, I don't have to worry about dingy dirtiness, the gray hides it well.<br /><br />Thom, you border idea sounds like it was slick.

 

[mutron77]

Re: Deck and sidewall paint options.

Hey, I decided to go with gray too!<br />Peeling, that is a bummer. I never heard of Britesides but is sounds like it is made for Marine applications so maybe you didn't get a good bond.<br />Well guys, there seems to be alot of ways to go.<br />The main reason, I guess, to put a paint, varnish, whatever coat over your epoxy work is that UV rays will break epoxy down over time.<br />So, my friend, a person with alot of experience with boat building, suggested an epoxy paint barrier coat like they use on their sail boats, adding glass beads for traction on the deck. But even that starts to break down after a while. You can run your hand over the transom on his sailboat an you get a white chalky powder on your hand.<br />Protect the work underneath and the top coat takes the hit from the UV. I guess you can keep the hull of your boat waxed like your car so it doesn't oxidize, but what about the inside of your boat?<br /> -------------------------<br /> I am using all West System products (Wood Epoxy Satutration Technique) for my project. <br />I am sure you are all familiar the these products. I was looking on their site and I saw an additive that may fit my needs, using the left over epoxy I have.<br />Here is their description.<br />-------------------------------------------<br /><br />422 Barrier Coat Additive<br />A proprietary blend designed to improve cured epoxy's moisture-exclusion effectiveness. 422 is used as a barrier coating additive to help prevent gelcoat blistering. 422 also increases the epoxy's abrasion resistance. Cures to a light gray color. Add to mixed resin/hardener at the rate of 15 to 20% by weight-3 tablespoons per 8 fl. oz. epoxy (approximately 32 oz. per B group)<br />-------------------------------------------------<br />Does this additive block UV to a point?<br />I don't know.<br />So, that just adds to the confusion.<br />I am going to call West System and ask the Tech what he thinks. They are happy to answer any questions about how to use, and what to use, as far as their products are concerned. They were a big help to me and saved me time and money.<br />Can't wait to get this done, because here in AZ, spring is already in the air!!!!<br /><br />H90