Deck repair looks like might need new stringers and any other advice.

[Floating&FlyingRfreedom]

First time ever restoring anything boat related. Floor was rotting in two area so decided to pull it up. Once I got a section up it appears at least one string has serious rot. The empty space between was filled with some kind of hard foam.
I’m guessing the left side of the boat has the same rot as that’s where the other spot was in the back.
Any advice on how to best start this and see it through?

thanks in advance!

 

[jbcurt00]

Looks like a full gut and rehab

 

[racerone]

Typical boat construction.--------Make a hull in a mold.---Then add some plywood structure.-----Pour in some expanding foam.----Put floor down.-----Foam adds strength and quieteness. -----Done.-------No concern as to what happens when water gets in there after 15 years.-----Doing a boat now.-----It takes many hours of fitting / cutting composite material.----Then putting it in place in the hull and transom.-------Years from now the grandkids will say-----" granpa built it , it is bomb proof and will never rot again "

 

[Scott Danforth]

Floors are the last thing to rot. Stri gers and transom are the first.

You have a full gut-n-rehab project

 

[Floating&FlyingRfreedom]

The transom appears to actually be in good condition. Started pulling out some of the rotted stringers and after reading some other forums threads some mentioned needing a cradle while others said they did it on the trailer. I understand the need for the cradle so that the hill doesn't warp and hook so what I did was move in the trailer supports as tight as physics would allow for me to do. After looking at some cradles I feel like this will serve the same purpose.

 

[Floating&FlyingRfreedom]

I have also considered doing one stringer replacement at a time as I have ready that can prevent the warping effects.

 

[kcassells]

You'll need a couple cases of beer. Lots of good info above in the how to section.

How To's and Other Great Information

Disclaimer iBoats has no control over external links contained in stickies and to be aware that links are fluid and may or may not work. 1. Coast Guard Safety Standards for Backyard Boat Builders Verified 2. Fiberglass Information Verified 3. Pouring Foam in's and out's Verified 4A. Basic...

forums.iboats.com

 

[JASinIL2006]

I have also considered doing one stringer replacement at a time as I have ready that can prevent the warping effects.

That’s probably possible, but if sounds like much more work than making sure the hull is properly supported and then gutting it. I don’t know what everyone else thinks, but it looks to me like the steps you’ve taken so far should properly support your hull while you do your work.

As for the transom, how did you determine it is OK? it would be unusual for the stringers to look that bad and yet the transom to be solid.

 

[tpenfield]

Bunk trailers make good cradles. Just add some temporary support at the chines and a wee bit of support up towards the bow if it does not have any and you will be good to go for a full cut & gut.

 

[Floating&FlyingRfreedom]

That’s probably possible, but if sounds like much more work than making sure the hull is properly supported and then gutting it. I don’t know what everyone else thinks, but it looks to me like the steps you’ve taken so far should properly support your hull while you do your work.

As for the transom, how did you determine it is OK? it would be unusual for the stringers to look that bad and yet the transom to be solid.

Well today I got in deeper and found that the transom is also rotted, as you predicted. Looking at a whole different scenario now. With the prospect of having to remove the engine and drive unit, which I don't have any space or method for doing so, I'm not sure how much further into the rehab I should proceed. I absolutely hate the thought of abandoning a project but wondering if I would be better looking for a used boat around the same size?

Thoughts?

 

[Floating&FlyingRfreedom]

In addition I have zero help on this. My only other idea wolould be to take it to a shop and have them remove and hold the engine and drive until I get the transom rebuilt. But not sure what kind of $$$ I'm looking at there.

 

[todhunter]

I don't think you ever said the make/model of the boat - what is it? Does it have any sentimental value? If not, you could sell it off and look for another boat, but chances are any boat in the same vintage is going to have the similar issues unless there is documented proof of a recent restoration. You either end up with one that needs restoring, or you're going to wait for the right used boat to become available, and you're going to pay for it when it does become available.

I've been doing my restoration on my own as well, other than having my wife mix some resin for me during the transom replacement. But I have called in a few favors from some friends - one guy has a track-hoe and he pulled the engine for me. I got a few friends to come over and help me lift the cap off and set it on a stand I built. A shop is probably going to skin you.

 

[GSPLures]

In addition I have zero help on this. My only other idea wolould be to take it to a shop and have them remove and hold the engine and drive until I get the transom rebuilt. But not sure what kind of $$$ I'm looking at there.

Not sure on your work area but once out a motor doesn't take up much room. For removal depending on the motor and boat the harbor freight 2 ton picker has a high reach and only costs 200. A lot cheaper compared to shop prices. It worked well on my 73 sea ray 180 with a 140 merc with the front of the trailer jacked up I cleared the hull by about 3 inches.

 

[Scott Danforth]

use an engine hoist to pull the motor. you should be able to do it without much effort with the 3.0

 

[JASinIL2006]

Pulling the drive and motor isn't very hard; I am not in any way a gearhead in any sense and I was able to do it. Just make sure you take lots of pictures and label everything you disconnect. It does help to have an extra set of hands when pulling the engine, but most everything else is easy to do by yourself, if you're reasonably handy and don't mind learning a few things.

Rehabbing a boat is hard and sometimes dirty work, but that would be the case whether you had to pull the engine or not. Actually, pulling the mechanical bits out of the boat will make it easier in some ways; you'll have more room to work, you don't have to worry about fiberglass dust fouling the engine or mechanicals, etc.

The tradeoff for the hundreds of hours of work and approx. $3000 of supplies is that you get a boat that will be in much better condition than you could buy for the same money and you will know your boat inside and out. It likely will also be rebuilt better than it was when new. Fixing up a boat isn't for everyone, but it's really not as hard as most think.

 

[racerone]

Agreed----I helped with a project on a 25' sailboat.----This boat design had known porous fiberglass and keel / hull joint issues.-----Ripped out the factory junk and improved the structure with ribs , fiberglass and West System epoxy.----Has not leaked or shown any cracks after nearly 10 years of use !------Working on a 17' boat now.-----A " go fast " that will not have any structural wood in the transom , floor , seat and deck supports.----Good thing is to look at what you want in the finished project and spend the money for materials a bit at a time.----Less painful that way.