detecting a leak

[rordog206]

Volvo Penta 2006 4.3 GL

This video shows me starting it up : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9SWamRTDlQ

It starts up great, after a few seconds of running, a liquid is spattering up. Based on the attached photo, the liquid seems like it's hitting the wheel of the power steering pump or the raw water pump, and shooting everywhere from that.

The liquid is dirty, and doesn't smell like anything. When I feel the belts (with engine off), they seem dry.

What could be leaking? Any tips on detecting this when it only leaks when it runs?

side note: i just replaced the fuel pump, hasn't been run since Aug 2015.

thx

 

[alldodge]

I'm thinking its your raw water pump. When was the last time the impeller was changed?

 

[rordog206]

never. just watched this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N14ZYhUwdo8

new gasket and impeller is probable solution. i will replace. thx!

 

[rordog206]

No Title

made it to the impeller. does it look worn? i see a small section of black rubber missing, is that my leak?

 

[bnicov]

Replace the impellor. There should be no pieces missing. BUT, that is not the cause of your leak. The cause is the shaft seal in pic #2, it has worn out and water gets behind it being flung around. Carefully remove it without scratching the shaft, go to a bearing supply or seal supply house and have it matched up. It is a standard oil seal. Clean the shaft with a scotch brite pad, wash out any residue and crud, reinstall the new shaft seal, impellor and o ring and you should be good to go. If it continues to leak, that means the shaft is worn and you need a new pump. Try the seal first. Between a new impellor and seal, you are looking at under 50 bucks, a new pump is well over 300.

 

[alldodge]

Agree, and will add the part number is 827247 and you can find it on line by searching.

 

[rordog206]

No Title

i had to pull the raw water pump. you can see from the first pic that the seal is totally butchered. that is my handy work. i did get it removed, and think that replacing just that seal will solve my problems (thx to bnicov and alldodge)

should i replace the bearing? and the impeller too? those things look ok.

is the seal, in picture 2, DPSM 16287, the oil seal the same part as alldodge is suggesting?

 

[alldodge]

I wouldn't replace the bearing but would replace the impeller because of the piece missing and to you said you never replaced it. Once replaced you can log it and now you will know how old it is for next time. Merc's get replaced every two years, don't know what VP recommends.

It's the one cheap item which can ruin your day and your motor real fast

 

[rordog206]

No Title

any tips on how to press the bearing back onto the shaft? should any mechanic be able to press a bearing like this? i loaned a bearing press from the local o'reillys auto, but the wheel is too big and it doesn't fit.

 

[alldodge]

I'm not a VP expert but looking at the manual all it says is to place the pulley on, then install the pump and torque bolts 25-29 ft lb.

So I would install the impeller and use glycerin or I use soap. Install new shaft seal on backing plate/bearing with lip facing inward. Install o-ring on the backing plate, then apply little oil to o-ring, shaft seal and spline shaft. Put the backing plate on the pump and slid over the shaft. Install bolts and torque
The top image is what manual states for installing a new pump. The two lower images come from just replacing the impeller and o-ring.

 

[Lunkerman]

I was able to pull the bearing housing off of the shaft using a 3 arm bearing puller, but getting the bearing out and back in required a bearing press. When installing, remember to use the loctite that comes in the kit to lock in the outside race into the housing so it doesn't spin in the housing. Another tip is to use silicone lubricant on the seals and impeller when you reassemble to prevent a dry start up.

 

[Lunkerman]

It also appears in your last pic that the bearing stayed on the shaft instead of coming off with the housing. If memory serves me right, that wasn't a possibility on my pump. Just pulling the housing off, the bearing came with it.

 

[rordog206]

No Title

Lunkerman, i also used a 3 arm puller. The bearing did come off the shaft, and also stayed in the house. i never took a picture of it flipped over to see the bearing. i did not see need to replace.

i just got back from T & D Machine Shop (http://www.yelp.com/biz/t-and-d-machine-kenmore) to get the bearing pressed back on. $20 bucks for about 1 minute it took Gary to press back on. worth it based on what i've read about approaches w/o a press.

picture attached of pulley with pressed on bearing, awaiting the new seal

what is best to lube oil ring seal on shaft? silicone or oil or grease?

what is best to lube o-ring on pump? silicone or oil or grease?

what is best to lube impeller? silicone or glycerine (soap)?

attached pic of lube options

 

[alldodge]

The manual says to use oil on the o-ring and shaft they don't keep 3n1 around, there talking motor oil. If you have glycerin I would use it, if not soap works good.

Remember lip on seal faces outward

 

[rordog206]

thank you @bnicov, @AllDodge, and @Lunkerman ! the pulley went back on the engine block, new impellor, seal, and o-ring, all lubed up, and installed.

here is a video of it running : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mqhcHybhoo&feature=youtu.be

last question: how tight should the belts be? does it look right in the video? when moving the alternator back into the place and tightening the built, i just didn't really know what i was doing. it seems to run fine.

 

[alldodge]

You should get about 1/2 to 1 inch deflection on a belt with your thumb on the longest side with light pressure. I think you good, if you hear any squealing then need a tad bit more tightening.