Distributor position

[affa]

Hi<br />I had to remove my distributor when I should remove the push rod cover on my merc 140 181 cid.<br />I began to think that it is important to get it back in the same position as it was, but dont remember how it was. What can I look for?<br />The end of the distributor assambly is like a screw driver and on the engine side for this is something that seems to move around free, has this anything to do with the positon?<br />Regards<br />Affa

 

[Fishermark]

Re: Distributor position

You're right, it needs to go back in the way it was. Since you didn't mark its position, you will need to find "top dead center." Take the first spark plug out, (that's #1 - the one near the front of the motor). Put your finger loosely over the hole while someone turns the starter motor. You will feel alternating pressure and vacuum. When the motor is on the compression, or "pressure" stroke, let go of the key. You should be able to see the timing marks begin to line up. If not, "bump" the starter over a little, still making sure you are on the compression stroke.<br /><br />When the timing marks line up to top dead center, (or more accurately eight degrees before top dead center), put the distributor back in.<br /><br />The slot you see in the bottom of the motor that connects with the slot on the distributor is your oil pump. You will need to visualize where you want to distributor to end up. Notice it moves clockwise as it drops down the hole. Turn the oil pump with a long screwdriver so that it will line up with the distributor when it drops down. Then turn your distribtor body so that it lines up with the number one spark plug wire.<br /><br />I mentioned eight degrees as the timing - you might want to double check that. It will at least be close enough to get you started.

 

[scamper]

Re: Distributor position

Or, do as Fishermark said to get your to DTC. Drop the distributor in it will probably not go down all the way as the oil pump is not engaged. Put slight pressure on the distributor and bump the engine around twice. As you are turning the engine the distributor shaft will engage the oil pump and the distributor will be flush with the intake. Learned that just a couple of days ago and it worked great.

 

[scamper]

Re: Distributor position

Oh, forgot to mention, once on DTC mark your distributor where the rotor will be pointing to no.1 . Then drop it in with the rotor still on no. 1..

 

[affa]

Re: Distributor position

Hi and thanks!<br />I have my cylinder-head off as well, but this should be enough so i get it back on the right place.<br />You are right my timing is 8 dg btdc; does the B means before?<br />Regards<br />Affa

 

[boatingfool]

Re: Distributor position

Yes the B is for before.<br /><br />The distributor you describe sounds like the end is slotted so it will only go in two ways.<br /><br />Exactly the way it came out or 180 out.<br /><br />You can try the procedures described above but you have a 50 50 shot of getting it right.If your wrong pull it back out & rotate it 180 and put it back in.<br /><br />The old gear type disrtibutors are the ones that take some effort to get the position just right.<br /><br />Back yard boatingfool.

 

[affa]

Re: Distributor position

Yes youre right, thanks alot!<br />Nice picture, Im already looking forward to the spring again!<br />Regards<br />Affa

 

[boatingfool]

Re: Distributor position

Thanks,<br /><br />That pic was taken Here in Texas last summer on Possum Kingdom lake.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Distributor position

.<br />hello<br /> affa. look for the post I sent to scamper on how to oreint the distributor. and the screwdriver tang is actually the oil pump drive. dont force the dist body all the way down or you will further dissasemble this poor 140 <br />Good luck and keep posting

 

[affa]

Re: Distributor position

Thanks all!<br />-Rodbolt, is it as easy to check all my valves as you described for #1?<br />My cylinderhead is off so I can check that they are closing I guess, but it would be nice to have the settings OK when it is in pieces anyway.<br />Regards<br />Affa

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: Distributor position

affa, with the head off, sit number 6 push rods back into their holes and turn engine over until: number 1 piston is all the way up & push rods are rocking - its now set up on number 1. Put the distrubutor back in with rotor pointing to number one on cap, dont worry about the oil pump, just use a long blade screwdriver to turn the pump to the correct position. The long bolt trick should work for turning over. Aldo

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Distributor position

affa<br /> yes it is the same for a one cyl or 10<br /> what you are doing is timeing the point opening with the piston at TDC. ign timing is that simple. its just a matter of when the spark happens in relationship to where the piston is. dont get confused with intake and exhaust valves. and while the rocker cover is off and you adjust the valves make sure the lifter plungers collapse in the lifter.if they dont you will have stuck open valves]<br />good luck and keep posting

 

[affa]

Re: Distributor position

Hi, and thanks.<br />When you say pushrod 6 rocking, is that on an other cylinder? The timing should be set with both lifter down and piston up, is that correct,<br />what they call tdc?<br />Rodbolt -how can I:- make sure the lifter plungers collapse in the lifter.if they dont you will have stuck open valves]<br />Is it the same settings for intake and exhaust valves? Is it possible to measure the gap,(like we do with the points), on the valves?<br />Regards<br />Affa

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: Distributor position

Affa, the push rods are simply an extension of the camshaft, when number six camshaft lobs are at their uppermost position, the push rods will 'rock' up and down as you turn the motor slightly back and forward (if the head and rocker gear was on, number 6 rockers would be 'rocking'). In this position, number one is ready to fire - TDC.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Distributor position

hello <br /> affa<br /> I understand your cylinder head is off<br /> and your tappet covers are off<br /> and your distributor is out.<br />lets go over the order of reasembly<br />] first reinstall the cyl head. make sure all gasket surfaces are clean and oil free. I use paper towels and alchohol or acetone. if you must use sealer do not use any containing copper. I usually use perfect seal.ok now we have the head properly torqued with head bolt threads coated with perfect seal. now we will install the rockers and push rods. I am assuming all are clean and lightly oiled. turn the engine in its normal rotaional direction until the intake lifter for cyl # 1 ( the front one one a 153/181 GM) closes. continue rotating until the piston is at TDC. you are now at TDC compression stroke for # 1 cyl. insert the pusrods making sure the ball end seats in the plunger socket.next after greaing the rocker tip and seats with assy lube, install the rocker. fulcrum ball and nut.<br /> tighten the nut while turning the pusrod with your fingers. when all the play is removed from the pushrod you will feel some resistance to turning. turn the adjusting nut 3/4 of a turn more and its done. now to double check this use a wire feeler gauge and see that the lifter plunger is just below the retainer wire by about .05 to .100 of an inch. do the exhaust for this cylinder the same way at tyhe same time. then do this for # 2 cyl. then # 3. then # 4.. what you are doing is making sure that there is zero clearence between the valve stem tip and the rocker. then one extra turn to preload the hydraulic lifter plunger. if the plunger is stuck for any reason then it will hold the valve off the seat. ok now we haave all the valves adjusted and made sure the plungers are preloaded. install the covers. now we have to rotate the engine back to TDC on compression stroke. watch the # 1 intake rocker close and continue rotating until the TDC marks line up on the balancer. now consult your manual as to which cyl the # 1 tower on the cap points so you can orient the dist body corrctly. the cap will only fit on the body one way<br /> the body will fit in the block any way you put it but will only work correctly in one way.ok. now you have a mental picture of where the rotor points and where the cap hold downs point. now we are goint to gently lower the body into the block after making sure we remembered the gasket.hold the rotor slightly anti clockwise from the exact point you want it to be. the body wont drop flush on the block until the oil pump drive engages the oil pump. if the body does not quite sit all the way down then gently push down and rotate the crank 2 full turns bringing you back to TDC #1 cyl. if all went perfect your rotor will now point to the # 1 cylinder tower on the cap with the hold down screws in the correct position. remember all your trying to accomplish is the points open about TDC and when they do the rotor is pointing at the #1 cyl tower on the cap. Piece o cake<br /> Good luck and let me know If I have confused you. I still have no clue about the previous posts with #6.

 

[affa]

Re: Distributor position

Hi, and thanks alot Rodbolt!<br />This make sence to me, but I have to ask a few questions.<br />I think I have found out about the distributor position, but want to make sure that tdc is when both valves are closed,(they are open when piston is on top on one stroke, and closed on the next), is that correct?<br />The way you do this you remove the rockerarm completely, or is it enough to loose it up a bit?<br />The assy lube is that something specially, or can I use grease?<br />The measuring on the lifter plunger is down at the hydraulic lifters (on the buttom end of the pushrod), correct?<br />I can see the lifters move when turning the engine, can they be stuck then? Im not sure how those lifter works.<br />Thanks again!<br />Regards<br />Affa

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Distributor position

hello <br /> affa<br /> I am assuming someone has removed your rocker arms while trhe head was off. well it is a four stroke so you only have TDC compression stroke once every other revolution,, the other is called the exhaust stroke. intake,piston going down,compression piston coming up.power, piston is going down after the fuel mix lights off. exhaust, piston is coming back up and the exhaust valve is opening. <br /> the seat area on the lifter is spring loaded and has a tiny oil passage and a check valve. this holds the lifter plunger at the desired amount of preload at all engine speeds and temps. thus allowing for minor wear and no readjustments. the lifter cant stick in its normal travel range. what happens occasionally is the lifter bottom will flare out or become misshapen, and will make removal difficult.if it sticks somehow in its normal travel range either the cam will break or a valve will stay open and get smaked.<br /> when you adjust the valve clearence you must insure that both lifters are on the cam base not the ramps or the lift lobe area. that is why I tell you to do this with each piston at the top of its travel after the intake valve lifter seats back down. and do that for each cylinder. treat each cylinder adjustment as if it were a seperate motor sharing a common crank. there is a method to do thisd and only turn the crank once. I use it all the time. I wont even attempt to tell you . just do it like i described and it will be ok.<br />good luck and post back if your still not sure.<br /> and the assy lube can be engine oil but any parts store will have a small tube of assy lube

 

[affa]

Re: Distributor position

Hi and thanks Rodbolt!<br />I removed the cylinderhead with the rockers on, only took the 10 bolts out. Should I take off the rockers and look for something? Is it possible to check the lifters in some way, I took one out to look at, is it the same which way I put it back in, thinking about the passage in it. About the TDC: now is cylinder 1 and 4 up at timing mark, at #1 the lifter is down, and on #4 ( at the transome end of the engine )they are just about to change from exhaust to intake, that make #1 in the right possision for timing?<br />Regards<br />Affa

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Distributor position

hello<br /> Affa<br /> the first 2 lifters are the # 1 cyl. the next 2 are # 2 cul the next 2 are #3 cyl and the last two belong to number 4.and this is how we are going to deal with your lifters. in pairs according to which piston you have on TDC COMPRESSION stroke. pay no attention to the other three pistons until your done dealing with the one you are adjusting. you will need to back off all the adjusting nuts on the rockers. I reccomend removal to clean all the parts for reassembly but that is up to you.just dont take the lifters out and mix them up. a new set should cost less than 50 dollars. you can dissasemble and clean them but they are cheap so I dont anymore. I dont have a book in front of me with a intake/exhaust pattern. but if you will look at your head you will see that the valves follow a pattern. the big ones are intake and the little ones are exhaust.the pattern starting at the front isEIIEEIIE. now I am looking at a manual. wow at home cooking turkey day dinner and still playing with a manual<br />. anyway worry only with one cylinder at a time. as for #1 firing position it is just after #1 intake lifter dropped and the piston comes on up to top dead center.then subsitute 2,3 and 4 for the rest<br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[affa]

Re: Distributor position

Hi, and thankyou very much Rodbolt! <br />I think Ill manage to adjust valves for the first time in my life!<br />Im waiting for the new parts I have ordered, and am really looking forward to get started.<br />About the sealant on the cylinderhead gasket, shall I add sealant on the engine side and cylinderhead?<br />You dont happen to know the torque settings for the cylinderhead as well?<br />Hope your dinner didnt get burn when looking in the manual! <br />Regards<br />Affa