Do I have to remove the Flywheel?

johndoe

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 27, 2002
Messages
180
When my 35HP Chrysler (1966) is shut off, Occasionally, it won't start using the ignition... Almost like the Battery is dead? Won't turn over or click or anything....<br /><br />I hand crank it with the pull rope and it fires right up.... The third time this happened, I turned the flywheel manually a small bit... it actually sprung back and forth... then I tried the ignition and it worked... Is there a bad spot on the magneto?? or flywheel? Any suggestions?
 

dkondelik

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 10, 2002
Messages
643
Re: Do I have to remove the Flywheel?

first thought is check/clean all contacts between starter, battery, solenoid and ignition switch but then,.....<br /><br />a neighbor has a very similar symptom on his Suzi 140.<br /><br />Next time it happens try this. Remove the cowel, reach around to the starter and turn the starter a bit. maybe 1/4 of a turn. then turn the key and see if the starter runs.<br /><br />seems my neighbor has a dead spot on his starter. hasn't repaired/replaced yet. he just lives with it.<br /><br />Good Luck
 

johndoe

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 27, 2002
Messages
180
Re: Do I have to remove the Flywheel?

Thanks Klondike... <br />Wonder how hard it would be to locate a new/rebuilt starter for this old thing..?<br /><br />Anyone know anything about rebuilding a starter?
 

sparkroost

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 23, 2003
Messages
312
Re: Do I have to remove the Flywheel?

More than likely you have worn brushes and or lots of black powder inbetween the brush and the armature. This causes the brush to not make proper contact. If you don't fix it soon you can destroy the armature by putting pits in it from the arcing brushes.<br /><br />You can replace the brushes AND brush springs. Emery the armature if very rough. If not rough, use an eraser to clean the armature, add new brushes.<br /><br />The proper way to check the starter is to put a meter on it. Ohms, negative to ground and positive to the hot terminal. Read resistance, then rotate the starter shaft a little and read again(you have to stop moving the starter to check the reading because you are generating voltage as you turn it). Do this until you make a 360 degree revolution. If you find that you have a open condition at any point in checking you will need to check the winding connections at the armature. Most are crimped and not soldered on. That crimp comes loose or corroded and loses the connection. This will cause an extra load on the starter and cause it to draw more current, eventually frying the windings.<br /><br />Usually you can have a starter shop rebuild it for about 90.00. That should include new bendix spring, brushes and spring and the soldering of the windings to the armature. If you have an open winding they can re-wind it. <br /><br />The key here is to solder the windings to the armature and take the starter apart once in awile and clean the brush contacts.
 
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